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Ignition Module Failure,what causes it?

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greeneyegi

Well-Known Member
Joined
Feb 21, 2010
Messages
1,474
the search function is on the crapper at the moment,so i remember on previous searches about testing some of the wires on the female plug that plugs into the side.can someone help?
i tried an old ecm i had layin around and it wouldnt start at all,the one i bought from schucks worked fine for about 500 miles and it started runnin crappy periodically,so i took it back then when the new one went in it lasted for one start.now i returned it and im gonna try the duralast brand.
Could something in my wiring be causing these to go out?
 
make sure your alternator is functioning properly, if the "diodes" are going bad they will spike your system with a/c current instead of d/c, very bad for the electronic's...
Some one else with more knowledge may chime in, I was helping Kim at Richard Clark's the other week and a electronic's guy was doing just this to trouble shoot Kim's Sweet Blue T type.

Chuck
 
No the ECM is the "Electronic Control Module" or commonly called the "computer" it located at the passengers right foot, behind the kick panel.
The part under the coils is in fact the "Ignition Module"

Chuck
 
well that screws up my post for help oh well,were talking about the ignition module crappin out,thanks for the correction
 
The Ignition Modules are now all a crap shoot, you need a Casper Tester to see what's working... If money is not a object I recommend Bob Bailey's "TR-6 Ignition" set-up.

Chuck
 
can moderators change my header to ignition module or erase this thread and ill start over
 
I had to do a search on ebay with the OEM part # for mine. It was new but no box. BE CARFUL when placing the leads back on the coil pack. I bent mine a bit to clean the contacts off and when I went to attach the ign mod wires the tabs broke off. I solder the wire to the coil pack and it works but its hard wired now.
OEM# 25526449. I know there several "different" #'s for this ign mods but I made sure the one I got was AC Delco and #25526449 was on it.
 
84BuickGNYorkPA helped me on my car putting a alt on at Turbo Nationals as mine popped a module while on the dyno , modules are like Chuck says a crap shoot , I just orderd a Brand New GM Delco and they are having trouble with them also so like Chuck says maybe the Baliey setup unit might be the next one for me .
 
The "new" AC Delco have had some issues. But they are not the same part # 25526449. I don't trust any #1996 or one's with #249 at the beginning. I made sure mine had #25526449 on the ign mod itself.
 
I have the TR6 system from Bob. So many features... I love it. Idle is smoother, starts quicker and everything comes on quicker when you mash it.

Throttle response is improved. Kinda reminds me when i added the bigger throttle body and plenum.

What's cool is it's ability to cut spark when the engine hits the rev limiter.

Joe
 
I have the TR6 system from Bob. So many features... I love it. Idle is smoother, starts quicker and everything comes on quicker when you mash it.

Throttle response is improved. Kinda reminds me when i added the bigger throttle body and plenum.

What's cool is it's ability to cut spark when the engine hits the rev limiter.

Joe

what was the total cost with everything,coils,etc?and do you have pics of the end result?
 
what was the total cost with everything,coils,etc?and do you have pics of the end result?

I have mine in the glovebox

ImageUploadedByTurboBuick1370192489.451100.jpg



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what was the total cost with everything,coils,etc?and do you have pics of the end result?


Module $495 per Bailey website, wires $30 (08 4.3L Silverado wires, Rock Auto), coil $60 (08 4.3L Silverado coil, Rock Auto), and you're off! I run a .040 gap on NGK UR5's at 30 psi and lean cruise at 16.5AFR as smooth as can be. Not trying to be a commercial, but I didn't go faster, I just go faster a lot more reliably and often. The rev limiter has been nice in burnout situations. I don't use the two step and haven't needed the diag options, yet, but it's nice that it's there.
 
Module $495 per Bailey website, wires $30 (08 4.3L Silverado wires, Rock Auto), coil $60 (08 4.3L Silverado coil, Rock Auto), and you're off! I run a .040 gap on NGK UR5's at 30 psi and lean cruise at 16.5AFR as smooth as can be. Not trying to be a commercial, but I didn't go faster, I just go faster a lot more reliably and often. The rev limiter has been nice in burnout situations. I don't use the two step and haven't needed the diag options, yet, but it's nice that it's there.

thats not bad,i thought you had to buy 6 coils.
 
ive gone down the list of tests and ive come to the conclusion the fuel injectors are pulsing but no spark,ive tested all fuses and have tried 2 new ignition coils and coil packs?what next ?
 
84BuickGNYorkPA said:
make sure your alternator is functioning properly, if the "diodes" are going bad they will spike your system with a/c current instead of d/c, very bad for the electronic's...
Some one else with more knowledge may chime in, I was helping Kim at Richard Clark's the other week and a electronic's guy was doing just this to trouble shoot Kim's Sweet Blue T type.

Chuck

That smart electronics guy was Gary K. knows his shit for sure.
 
Just replaced my ignition module with a new delco module. The box looks pretty aged though. Part # on the box is 24503624 , it has tan sealant and 87 printed above the connector. So far so good. Now almost wishing I'd switched to the TR-6 module considering what this thing cost.
 
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