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Installed alky and it runs worse!! Help!

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Dewey

Resident Smartass
Joined
Feb 18, 2005
Messages
493
Installed my Razor's alky kit and everything checks out so far. Took the car out for the test drive and all the lights are coming on as they should. I left all the settings the way they came out of the box and the car is knocking severely at WOT. We're talking like 25-30* kr. I'm mostly stock so I'm thinking maybe too much alcohol? Everything I've checked is working properly. I even checked the MAP voltage and everything seems to be right on the money. :confused:
 
Installed my Razor's alky kit and everything checks out so far. Took the car out for the test drive and all the lights are coming on as they should. I left all the settings the way they came out of the box and the car is knocking severely at WOT. We're talking like 25-30* kr. I'm mostly stock so I'm thinking maybe too much alcohol? Everything I've checked is working properly. I even checked the MAP voltage and everything seems to be right on the money. :confused:

wow thats way to much knock. when you go out and test you should roll slowly into the throttle and watch for knock. if you see knock back out of it. im not sure after that kind of beating that the motor is ok. but if you got lucky start buy getting the motor warm and pushing the test button. car should bog down and stumble pretty bad. a/f's will drop into the 9's try this first and see what happens. also you might want to call julio or send him a pm and get his .02.
 
What are you running for boost? Where is the gain know set at on the controller? Does the car stumble when you hit the test button?
 
Boost is at 16-17 lbs, gain set at 4, not much of a stumble at test.
 
Boost is at 16-17 lbs, gain set at 4, not much of a stumble at test.

there should be a huge stumble at test. you almost have to give it gas or it will die. atleast both my cars are that way. sounds like a huge cam in them when u push and hold the test button.
 
Agreed if you aren't getting a huge drop in RPM with the test button held down then something isn't right. The test button should be enough to practically stall the engine. Should have checked that first before going for a WOT blast!
 
Agreed if you aren't getting a huge drop in RPM with the test button held down then something isn't right. The test button should be enough to practically stall the engine. Should have checked that first before going for a WOT blast!

I doubt thats the problem tho, seeing as hes only running 16lb of boost, but I would certianly figure out what going on there first.

Try turning the gain knob all the way up and hit the test button again while its idling. Should nearly kill the engine. Then take it for a ride and adjust as needed
 
I did finally notice that the turn on LED isn't turning green at 10-12 psi like it's supposed to. I'll try upping the pressure at the pump and see if that helps. I cranked the gain way up and finally got the motor to stumble so I'm hoping it's just the pump pressure.
 
From what I'm reading in the instructions, turning the allen screw in the pump head changes the "pressure met" threshold. So you're changing the pump pressure by adjusting this screw aren't you?
 
no
as shipped from shurflo the switch at top does affect pressure because its wired in series with the pump , but its not that way after julios done .

what you change is the pressure point where the flip flop led will go from red to green , turn in takes more line pressure to flip , turn out for it to flip at less pressure.
 
Julio usually has the setup for the pump dead on. I would re-check your wiring and all connections before messing with the pump or pac system. Or give Julio a call.
 
What MAF is on the car? Stock with BW decal? LT1? Translator?

Is the car clean at 8-10 PSI boost with the alky "on"?

What are BLM's at idle? What are BLM's at cruise?

Ohh.. leave the screw setting on the pump alone.. dont touch them... for now. And changing that screw does not affect how much alcohol is sprayed in, only when it changes color from red to green.

If your on a stock turbo and dont plan on running a lot of boost, we should step you down on nozzle.

Lets start here.
 
While you guys were replying to my last post, I had gone out and turned the allen screw on the pump out a little bit and that seems to have solved everything. LED is going green at 10psi. I jacked the boost up to 24 lbs and car is running well. I still need to do a little fine tuning but there's a bit too much traffic on the street to be doing that now. Thanks for all the input guys!!!!

Julio, for future reference the MAF is what came with the kit. All voltages on tests checked out. I couldn't tell you what the BLMs are because I was watching the fuel and kr on my scanmaster. If you can tell me what to shoot for I'll try to fine tune it to the proper BLMs. Thanks for the help...:-)
 
While you guys were replying to my last post, I had gone out and turned the allen screw on the pump out a little bit and that seems to have solved everything. LED is going green at 10psi. I jacked the boost up to 24 lbs and car is running well. I still need to do a little fine tuning but there's a bit too much traffic on the street to be doing that now. Thanks for all the input guys!!!!

Julio, for future reference the MAF is what came with the kit. All voltages on tests checked out. I couldn't tell you what the BLMs are because I was watching the fuel and kr on my scanmaster. If you can tell me what to shoot for I'll try to fine tune it to the proper BLMs. Thanks for the help...:-)


Kit comes with a MAP not MAF. MAF=Mass Air Flow. Make sure its not a reman.. Stockers have the BW decal. You need to look at blm's at idle and cruising NOT racing :) and see if the numbers are +-10 from 128. If not, find out why. Then look at O2 voltage and make sure its mid 800's when you first stab it and it comes down to lower 800's at appox 80-100 MPH.

Be safe.. dont want you to get in trouble.

Julio
 
My mistake. My MAF is the original GM and I have a backup when this one poops out. Fuel and BLMs look good. :biggrin:
 
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