Is a 224/218 CAM too for 109 with ported irons

[MCH86GN]

I am planning on having a 109 built with a stoker kit. The person I bought it off said that it would work well with the 109 block as long as I was going with a stroker. Now I already own a set of ported irons and I do not want to buy GN1 heads. After talking to a some people it sounds like I am over cammed for ported irons, they just don't flow enough for billet roller 224/218 cam. I bought the cam because I thought it was a good deal, it is in great shape and only has about 200 miles on it. It came with morel lifters and a 3/8th inch push rods and the double timing chain.

Sounds like I need to try and sell the CAM and parts.

 

[earlbrown]

you need to raise the static compression up pretty far to offset those huge lobes. Otherwise you'll most likely end up with an engine that has horrible VE.

Also it's going to take quite a bit of work to get those 3/8ths pushrods to play nice with the stock iron heads.

 

[Pronto]

Sell the irons and buy some GN1s. The difference will probably be about the same as selling the cam and buying another.

 

[TurboTdr3.8]

That cam was in my combo when I bought my car , I had to take it out due to it being to big for my combo and I had gn1 heads also but I had a stock stroke though which made it worse .

 

[2QUICK2B6]

that is a large cam

 

[Quik Six]

I am planning on having a 109 built with a stoker kit. The person I bought it off said that it would work well with the 109 block as long as I was going with a stroker. Now I already own a set of ported irons and I do not want to buy GN1 heads. After talking to a some people it sounds like I am over cammed for ported irons, they just don't flow enough for billet roller 224/218 cam. I bought the cam because I thought it was a good deal, it is in great shape and only has about 200 miles on it. It came with morel lifters and a 3/8th inch push rods and the double timing chain.

Sounds like I need to try and sell the CAM and parts.

I have a stroker kit in a 109 block with Champion iron heads and a DLS spec'd 218/218 cam. Turbo is 6265 JB combined with PTC 9.5 NL convertor and the combo runs 10.30 - 10.40's on 93/alky at 24lbs of boost. Fixed a few gremlins recently and found some more power so those numbers should get better. Car has great street manners, spools extremely fast and is a lot of fun to take my wife to get an ice cream cone.

 

[MCH86GN]

Sell the irons and buy some GN1s. The difference will probably be about the same as selling the cam and buying another.

I rather keep my heads and get a new cam, remember all I need is the cam I don't need lifters, push rods nor timing chain and gear.

 

[MCH86GN]

you need to raise the static compression up pretty far to offset those huge lobes. Otherwise you'll most likely end up with an engine that has horrible VE.

Also it's going to take quite a bit of work to get those 3/8ths pushrods to play nice with the stock iron heads.

With regards to the push rods, I will leave that to my engine builder Dave Roland.

 

[MCH86GN]

Sell the irons and buy some GN1s. The difference will probably be about the same as selling the cam and buying another.

Just in case how much are GN1, I think around $1600 correct? Don't the new ones need to ported?

 

[2QUICK2B6]

they don't NEED to be ported but cnc helps

 

[MCH86GN]

they don't NEED to be ported but cnc helps

Well, I have at least a year before I start my build. It will give me sometime to think about it. I am trying to build a mid 10s full 3600# car, 3800 with me in it. When I bought the cam from a board member he said that with a stroker kit I would be fine with CAM and I even asked a few other well known members and they said the same thing, however, they have since said something different. I'm trying to shed a few pounds though, not that it would make any difference.

 

[Pronto]

What does your engine builder recommend for a stroker?

 

[Nick Micale]

After doing a few hundred different cams over the years, I do not think that cam would be an issue in your build, even though it may not be optimum for your ultimate goals which you do not state?

In one of my street cars I am running a 224/224 hydraulic roller with iron heads and a TE-45A turbo, and this is an easy 10 sec. combo.

The dyno showed peak RPM 5600-5800 with the 140# valve springs, but that is more than enough RPM for the street as the torque is almost at peak at 3000 RPM and continues to build beyond that.

 

[MCH86GN]

After doing a few hundred different cams over the years, I do not think that cam would be an issue in your build, even though it may not be optimum for your ultimate goals which you do not state?

In one of my street cars I am running a 224/224 hydraulic roller with iron heads and a TE-45A turbo, and this is an easy 10 sec. combo.

The dyno showed peak RPM 5600-5800 with the 140# valve springs, but that is more than enough RPM for the street as the torque is almost at peak at 3000 RPM and continues to build beyond that.

Nick I am looking for low to mid 10s.

Here is what I bought:
would like to sell this as a whole kit since this cam was set up with nose hardware and a torrington bearing for a serious 3.8 or 4.1 block, is ready to run and has very little use...if your serious i can send phone pics if you pm me your phone # cost to duplicate this is about 1500.... looking for 950 shipped... for everything....perfect for a stroker, 4.1 or street/strip car
NEW PRICE 850 SHIPPED
224/218 billet custom comp grind, i have the cam card with all specs
519 intake 511 exhaust lift. 112 lobe seperation angle.
all nose hardware and torrington bearing already machined and clearanced for use with cam
885r hyd roller lifters, these are comps race lifters with .003 preload
rollmaster billet timing set to match cam with multi position crank gear
chromemoly pushrods for champion heads

 

[Quik Six]

Listen to Nick. He's been here many times before.

You goal is reachable but you've got a lot to do to your car and your components and it takes a lot of time and money to run at that level and let the car live. You'll be increasing WHP from 390 to 570 and the stock components don't have long lives at the higher level.

It's good you started this thread and that you are looking ahead at what you want to achieve. Best of luck with this project.

 

[MCH86GN]

Listen to Nick. He's been here many times before.

You goal is reachable but you've got a lot to do to your car and your components and it takes a lot of time and money to run at that level and let the car live. You'll be increasing WHP from 390 to 570 and the stock components don't have long lives at the higher level.

It's good you started this thread and that you are looking ahead at what you want to achieve. Best of luck with this project.

Thanks. I probably wouldn't be planning a rebuild, but I wiped a cam lobe and I just had the cam replaced in my current setup and I didn't go through a rebuild at that point. All that metal went through the oiling system and who knows what damage was done to the bearing and how long my engine will last. I thought my engine was dying this spring, so I bought a std bore 109 block, very nice condition had it magna fluxed and I was getting ready to give Dave Roland the go ahead to build. But my my car started running ok so I put the build on hold. I realize what I will have to do to get my car down in the low to mid 10s range. Engine, transmission and rear end. Right now I'm trying to get concurrence on the cam. Am I over-cammed for ported irons, if so then I want to off load the cam and purchase something more suitable. I think my engine will last the rest of this and next year. So I probably won't start the rebuild until 2015 . Who know what will happen between now and then. I might be selling my car to pay my mortgage. It would be nice to buy parts though, because prices keep going up and up.

 

[bison]

What lobes are they. The .050" duration number means little. What springs are you running? What installed heights? What is the coil bind limit of your spring?


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[MCH86GN]

What lobes are they. The .050" duration number means little. What springs are you running? What installed heights? What is the coil bind limit of your spring?


Posted from the TurboBuick.Com mobile app

The lobes are comp xer lobes. I haven't bought springs yet. The reason being, I want to make sure this cam can work with ported irons. I will out what springs are needed, but before I go through all of that I just want to make sure this cam can work. I am taking my time. The idea is to build a 109 stroker short block. Figure what turbo and converter will best suit my needs. I will also need to rebuilt my trans and probably beef up the rear end.

 

[87WE4BOOSTED]

Running 218/212 roller cam, stroked w/6265. Mid to bottom 10s should be a cake walk... Like mentioned, all other supporting hardware should be there. GL on your que$t!

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[20psiofevil]

Subscribed.
I run 218/224 .580 114 comp billet in my ford v6 and it went 102mph in the 1/8 on 16psi with issues. (for what it's worth)