Nascar83Fan
Active Member
- Joined
- Jul 2, 2010
- Messages
- 541
It's not under as much of a load while in park, so the engine can freely rev easier without actting up as much but when in gear it has a bit of a load on it from the transmission being engaged where if there's something wrong it's really gonna show up more than in park.
In december of last year i was having these issues with my 87 TR.
You're probably going to find your crank sensor is bad, i never had to pump the gas to make mine start, but mine idled decent and had alittle missing in park when i'd get upto 2000+ rpms & for alittle while if i didn't build more than 8psi of boost wouldn't backfire out the exhaust at all. Eventually on my way over to an oreilly parts store to get stuff to fix it, it had threw a code 42 on the scanmaster so had limped her the rest of the way over to the parts store where i had ended up for over a week chasing another issue that had happened later in the parking lot. After i had changed out the coil pack, which didn't fix the missing out the exhaust issue when i wasn't at idle i then tried changing out the ignition control module and thought maybe i had fixed the issue at that moment as there was no missing & there was no codes. After alittle while eventually developed an idle issue where it would die unless i had my foot on the gas alittle bit the last 3 times i had started it that day so after having someone adjust the idle adjustment while it was running with me inside the car had got that at that moment resolved then drove around the parking lot to see if it was gonna be ok or not. After alittle bit of driving i had to come to a stop cause of a car pulling out of a parking spot. So while i was in gear with my foot on brake the engine had 15 or 20 seconds later started to idle at around 550-575 rpm and then it out of nowhere dropped under 500 rpm then shut off. It wouldn't restart and now it had turned into a no start issue in that parking lot that same day. There was a gas station on the same connected block area where the parts store was, which happened to be where she decided to quit near the pumps so just to make sure i had plenty of gas in the tank which i was sure i did had put some more gas in and she still wouldn't fire up just would crank.
I had replaced the coil pack, ignition module, maf, the computer.
I had checked for any fuel pressure issues which fuel pressure was good, i had checked to make sure none of the grounds were compromised, tried swapping to different spark plug wires, checked for any electrical issues which there was no issue in any of wiring. I had even to rule out the connector or a bad section of wire near the connector end on the crank shaft sensor wiring had bought a new connector and properly replaced it which had extended the length of the wires to get rid of any stress placed on the wires from how little slack from the factory there was in the wiring to the crank sensor.
None of it had fixed the no start issue which left me with only 2 things left to replace, crankshaft sensor and the camshaft sensor.
So i had replaced the crank sensor and not only had she started up again but had ran like a top again also. So before you end up replacing a bunch of stuff for no reason, check out all the grounds to make sure none came loose and if they're all tight then i'd replace the crank sensor. Have a strong feeling that'll fix things for you, sounds exactly like what you had been experiencing is almost to the point mine was in. Also make sure you don't have any spark plugs that are cracked or damaged on the porcelain covering as they can arc with the exposed metal underneath making it run like crap also. If none of the spark plugs are damaged or fouled, the spark plug wires are confirmed to be good, check and replace the crank position sensor. If you end up resolving the problem with having replaced the crank sensor then that was the problem.
Hopefully before it turns into a no start issue you get it resolved.
Posted from the TurboBuick.Com mobile app
In december of last year i was having these issues with my 87 TR.
You're probably going to find your crank sensor is bad, i never had to pump the gas to make mine start, but mine idled decent and had alittle missing in park when i'd get upto 2000+ rpms & for alittle while if i didn't build more than 8psi of boost wouldn't backfire out the exhaust at all. Eventually on my way over to an oreilly parts store to get stuff to fix it, it had threw a code 42 on the scanmaster so had limped her the rest of the way over to the parts store where i had ended up for over a week chasing another issue that had happened later in the parking lot. After i had changed out the coil pack, which didn't fix the missing out the exhaust issue when i wasn't at idle i then tried changing out the ignition control module and thought maybe i had fixed the issue at that moment as there was no missing & there was no codes. After alittle while eventually developed an idle issue where it would die unless i had my foot on the gas alittle bit the last 3 times i had started it that day so after having someone adjust the idle adjustment while it was running with me inside the car had got that at that moment resolved then drove around the parking lot to see if it was gonna be ok or not. After alittle bit of driving i had to come to a stop cause of a car pulling out of a parking spot. So while i was in gear with my foot on brake the engine had 15 or 20 seconds later started to idle at around 550-575 rpm and then it out of nowhere dropped under 500 rpm then shut off. It wouldn't restart and now it had turned into a no start issue in that parking lot that same day. There was a gas station on the same connected block area where the parts store was, which happened to be where she decided to quit near the pumps so just to make sure i had plenty of gas in the tank which i was sure i did had put some more gas in and she still wouldn't fire up just would crank.
I had replaced the coil pack, ignition module, maf, the computer.
I had checked for any fuel pressure issues which fuel pressure was good, i had checked to make sure none of the grounds were compromised, tried swapping to different spark plug wires, checked for any electrical issues which there was no issue in any of wiring. I had even to rule out the connector or a bad section of wire near the connector end on the crank shaft sensor wiring had bought a new connector and properly replaced it which had extended the length of the wires to get rid of any stress placed on the wires from how little slack from the factory there was in the wiring to the crank sensor.
None of it had fixed the no start issue which left me with only 2 things left to replace, crankshaft sensor and the camshaft sensor.
So i had replaced the crank sensor and not only had she started up again but had ran like a top again also. So before you end up replacing a bunch of stuff for no reason, check out all the grounds to make sure none came loose and if they're all tight then i'd replace the crank sensor. Have a strong feeling that'll fix things for you, sounds exactly like what you had been experiencing is almost to the point mine was in. Also make sure you don't have any spark plugs that are cracked or damaged on the porcelain covering as they can arc with the exposed metal underneath making it run like crap also. If none of the spark plugs are damaged or fouled, the spark plug wires are confirmed to be good, check and replace the crank position sensor. If you end up resolving the problem with having replaced the crank sensor then that was the problem.
Hopefully before it turns into a no start issue you get it resolved.
Posted from the TurboBuick.Com mobile app
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