Just got the TTA back from Andersons

I don't think a non-lockup converter will help your 60ft times. Your converter is not locked-up coming out of the hole. What type of boost control? I had stock intercooler and best 60ft were 1.90-2.10 at 7.7s in 1/8th. Put on stretch intercooler and BAM 1.6-1.7 60ft 7.17 in 1/8th so far.
 
I have an ATR adjustable Race Gate w/ a valve inside the console. I am eventually going to upgrade the intercooler. Not too many IC's out there to choose from. That's another question. Where can I get a good one? :confused:
 
ttafan said:
I have an ATR adjustable Race Gate w/ a valve inside the console. I am eventually going to upgrade the intercooler. Not too many IC's out there to choose from. That's another question. Where can I get a good one? :confused:
No one makes one. You have to custom make your own..

Jason
 
Jicaju said:
I don't think a non-lockup converter will help your 60ft times. Your converter is not locked-up coming out of the hole. QUOTE]

This statment supports what I was saying. Look at the cheap /easythings first :)
 
ttafan said:
I have an ATR adjustable Race Gate w/ a valve inside the console. I am eventually going to upgrade the intercooler. Not too many IC's out there to choose from. That's another question. Where can I get a good one? :confused:

Not an expert on this by far but from what I have been told and understand puting the boost valve in the car adds about 8+ feet of vacuum line going to and from. Wouldn't this make the turbo spool slower and possibly add more lag and maybe part of the sluggish feeling off the line :confused: Maybe try putting the valve right at the turbo where it will only have about 12" of vacuum hose instead of 8+ feet and see if it changes...just a thought.

-Scott
 
Scott89TTA said:
Not an expert on this by far but from what I have been told and understand puting the boost valve in the car adds about 8+ feet of vacuum line going to and from. Wouldn't this make the turbo spool slower and possibly add more lag and maybe part of the sluggish feeling off the line :confused: Maybe try putting the valve right at the turbo where it will only have about 12" of vacuum hose instead of 8+ feet and see if it changes...just a thought.

-Scott
Nope..good thought but if you have one pound of boost the rest comes on just as fast/hard as it would either way.

Jason
 
That is actually a good point. When I had my 92 Typhoon I had a valve that I tried to mount inside the cockpit and the turbo would not spool. Mounted the SAME valve out under the hood next to the turbo and it took care of the problem. That was with a stock wastegate and turbo. I don't know if that has anything to do with it but alot of guys are running boost valves inside the car. Who knows.... I love this stuff! ;)
 
Trent,
The car is making PLENTY of power. Just need to get it to leave and it is deep in the 10s! Keep in mind this is all on pump gas with alky too,and on a very conservative tune because it is a stock shortblock.I am not crazy about a transbrake in a 200 because I feel they are too hard on parts, even with the best stuff in a 200, the parts are still small. In this case a TBrake is almost necessary because the brakes are never gonna be able to hold enough boost on the line to get it up into it's powerband.A 10-12# launch (after the turbo is on the pipe!) and that thing will leave with the wheels in the air and probably pick up another MPH or 2 as well. ATI is the only way to go with a non lockup but to make it loose enough to work on your combo, it is going to make a bunch of heat when street driving where the L/U will not. Glad you are enjoying the car!
 
Bill, love the car. You did a great job. It feels very strong. Thanks! :cool: I would like to stay with the L/U and try a transbrake If you think it will do the trick and the car can handle it. If not, I've got a spare 200 in my garage. :biggrin: :biggrin: :biggrin:
 
Jicaju said:
I don't think a non-lockup converter will help your 60ft times. Your converter is not locked-up coming out of the hole. What type of boost control? I had stock intercooler and best 60ft were 1.90-2.10 at 7.7s in 1/8th. Put on stretch intercooler and BAM 1.6-1.7 60ft 7.17 in 1/8th so far.

Wrong.. reciprocating weight. The lockup is a much heavier piece.

In a game of feet.. its all about inches..

I run a tight 9 inch N/L with an anti-ballooning plate and a BAT brake on my 200. I have not had any issues yet.. but the tires have limited the cars ability to dead hook..

If you leave of the brake at 6-8 PSI.. it will get a mild 60 foot and allow things to stay glued for a pretty long time.

Long live the stock short blocks :D
 
I'll agree the non-lockup is a little lighter but I sure you have had some better 60ft times than that when you were using a lock-up. Something else is going on here.
 
That 70Q needs to get to 12 PSI.. once there wonderful things start happening.

Its hard to bring up a big turbo of the foot brake.. and not leave 2 minutes latter. A small shot of nitrous will also bring it up quickly.

I run a 71 GTQ .85 housing... no way to get any 60 foot without nitrous on the current converter.
 
Razor said:
That 70Q needs to get to 12 PSI.. once there wonderful things start happening.

Its hard to bring up a big turbo of the foot brake.. and not leave 2 minutes latter. A small shot of nitrous will also bring it up quickly.

I run a 71 GTQ .85 housing... no way to get any 60 foot without nitrous on the current converter.

Don't know about bringing a big turbo up on the foot brake yet :biggrin: but I think you would of done yourself better with a 70 GTQ .85 Precision housing from what I have read. :)
 
Razor said:
That 70Q needs to get to 12 PSI.. once there wonderful things start happening.

Its hard to bring up a big turbo of the foot brake.. and not leave 2 minutes latter. A small shot of nitrous will also bring it up quickly.

I run a 71 GTQ .85 housing... no way to get any 60 foot without nitrous on the current converter.

Hell, you coulda mentioned that earlier! :rolleyes: :D
 
wbrophy said:
Don't know about bringing a big turbo up on the foot brake yet :biggrin: but I think you would of done yourself better with a 70 GTQ .85 Precision housing from what I have read. :)

True but beggars cant be choosers :D Deal is a deal if ya know what I mean ;)
 
my personal opinion



first and formost get a brake......i ran the stageright and once per yer had the trans freshened ........it still worked fine but the brake was hard on the clutches.......20+lb launches (like 200+ per year). second the gtq turbo is wrong for your setup......id run the 70 p trim.......and a art carr 9 inch non lockup converter. with the alky you should not have intercooler issues unless you have a flow restriction!!! ditch the bfg's!!!!!!!!! if you want a radial mt drag radials WORK!!!!!......ALSO TUNING ON THE DYNO AND RACING @ THE TRACK ARE 2 TOTALLY DIFFERENT THINGS. to get top performance out of the car you need to learn how to make basic adjustments to the fast (you spent the $$$$$ why not use the system. the whole point is to be able to make changes. its not a set and forget type of deal if that was the case you would still be on the stock ecm w/ a chip


ps. im the former owner of tta 871(195k on the clock) 10.75 @ 131 and i didnt have all of the high zoot parts you have.
 
Lot's of people have gone real fast on a 70-P trim and a 9" non-lock Art Carr converter. I know because I used to run both like some others on the board. :)

PS: Still run the converter
 
Just my opinion.

The 70 P trim is old technology, we have built cars that run 9s with it but we have also built cars that ran 8s with a gen6 DFI. That doesnt make it the best choice. The parts selected for the TTA project were done in a manner that the customer would have to buy ONCE and not keep upgrading as the engine program progressed.Another thing to throw in there is that Trents car is not set on KILL and it was the first outing to the track on a new combo......small steps guys!
 
EightSecV6 said:
Just my opinion.

The 70 P trim is old technology, we have built cars that run 9s with it but we have also built cars that ran 8s with a gen6 DFI. That doesnt make it the best choice. The parts selected for the TTA project were done in a manner that the customer would have to buy ONCE and not keep upgrading as the engine program progressed.Another thing to throw in there is that Trents car is not set on KILL and it was the first outing to the track on a new combo......small steps guys!

Just my opinion he needs a 274 stage II with twin PT67's, a lenco, tube chassis, bla bla bla and he should run 10's easily :D









Small steps is the only way ;)
 
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