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Knock at low boost

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Drive would help pin point the problem. If it goes away, it is just from the low rpm lugging. Is your TV cable adjusted? It should want to downshift.
I dont know about the TV cable, but The car has always resisted shifting into 4th, i usually have to let off the gas to do it... Dont know i that tells anything or not though
 
One thing that sticks out to me- techron... I just used a bottle last week upon fill up and ten miles later my fuel pump took a $hit. Not sure if it was a fluke but the pump (walbro) was fresh last year around June or so. Do you have a fuel press gauge? I noticed my wide band showing real lean and the car was surging at part throttle and fuel press was lower than normal. Died at a stoplight up the street and was able to limp it home. Just a thought.
 
137 is not outrageous. It's +/- 10 anyway.,
Your right that is not that bad!! Mine runs about 132 I like to stay within +/- 5
I'm going to begin to play with the BLM correction part of the chip just to see how close to 128 I can get it...
 
One thing that sticks out to me- techron... I just used a bottle last week upon fill up and ten miles later my fuel pump took a $hit. Not sure if it was a fluke but the pump (walbro) was fresh last year around June or so. Do you have a fuel press gauge? I noticed my wide band showing real lean and the car was surging at part throttle and fuel press was lower than normal. Died at a stoplight up the street and was able to limp it home. Just a thought.
Well that is good to know... I guess i am going to need a fuel pressure gauge
 
Your right that is not that bad!! Mine runs about 132 I like to stay within +/- 5
I'm going to begin to play with the BLM correction part of the chip just to see how close to 128 I can get it...


If the high BLM count is isolated to a few cells in the LV8 table, then it would'nt be a very big deal outside a small adjustment. If it's globally a high(er) BLM count, it may be a good idea to check and double check the items previously mentioned just to make sure WOT will not present a lean condition.

$.02
 
Well , i tried giving it a little bit or boost (4-5, didnt want to push it to hard right now) 5 times today while in drive. I got KR the first time, but after that nothing, and I got all the way up to around 65 or so. But when I would do this the o2s would drop almost to 0. Also BLMs were in the 130s cruising at 35 or so.
 
A lot of parts stores have them for loan. They make you pay for it, then you take it home and do what you need to do with it, then take it back when you're done for a refund. I did this with the autozone down the street. I kept the one from o'reilly though. Glad I have it. Used it several times.
 
Well , i tried giving it a little bit or boost (4-5, didnt want to push it to hard right now) 5 times today while in drive. I got KR the first time, but after that nothing, and I got all the way up to around 65 or so. But when I would do this the o2s would drop almost to 0. Also BLMs were in the 130s cruising at 35 or so.

You have something wrong. Until you are checking fuel pressure, don't boost it up. Driving it and trying to make it have KR will not make the problem go away so stop doing that. This is how people damage more than needed.

After fuel pressure rise is verified, then make sure your O2 sensor isn't bad.
 
Ok well I will see if I can loan one and let y'all know. Thanks for all the help
 
[quote="3.8L V-8 eater, post: What chip do you have?? My Extender Extreme chip can be adjusted to help with getting BLM's closer to the target!!
im using the new style tt chip that is adjustable i just dont know enuf about it to mess with it. ill check my blm's while driving at 55 as well & post back the results
 
[quote="3.8L V-8 eater, post: What chip do you have?? My Extender Extreme chip can be adjusted to help with getting BLM's closer to the target!!
im using the new style tt chip that is adjustable i just dont know enuf about it to mess with it. ill check my blm's while driving at 55 as well & post back the results
I have the stock chip in there right now, only other one I have is an old one from ATI
 
strongly suggest investing in a turbo tweak chip, they are awesome!! then re- evaluate your readings & go from there.
 
You need to confirm fuel pressure regardless what chip you're running- i would borrow the parts store one and confirm idle setting with vacuum line off then tuck it under the wiper blade and check that it's rising 1:1 with boost. I would order a permanent mount one for the future but for now use the parts store one to check it now before attempting to drive/push the car anymore!
 
I Deffinately agree with haywire on that, fp to boost lbs is cructial, its very hard to monitor though " atleast for me " my autometer boost gauge wont even read boost until its atleast 7-10 psi or higher, the needle just sits on zer0
 
I Deffinately agree with haywire on that, fp to boost lbs is cructial, its very hard to monitor though " atleast for me " my autometer boost gauge wont even read boost until its atleast 7-10 psi or higher, the needle just sits on zer0
You may have a kink in the line.
 
I have the stock chip in there right now, only other one I have is an old one from ATI
Using the stock chip is like playing Russian roulette. It's calibrated for 1987 gasoline which is light years from today's gas. A new chip may solve your issue with part throttle knock.

It might also be worth it to pull the upper intake and check to see if there's a film of oil in there. If oil goes in the intake, it'll go in the combustion chamber and burn, leaving carbon deposits. Over time the carbon deposits will build up in the chamber effectively increasing your compression ratio. The increased compression can cause knock. While you have the upper intake off, might as well stick an rjc airflow distribution plate in there.
 
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