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LC-1 Wideband install tips

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Update! Took the downpipe to a local Meineke Muffler who does custom work and he charged me $5 to weld the bung on. Reinstalled the downpipe and finished up the wiring today.

Put the LED and test calibration button in my dual gauge pod on the console. Ran the grounds to the steel bar frame where the glovebox door bolts to. Lot easier to work in this area if you just take the door off.

For the 12v ign on, just tapped into the power wire for the power trunk release button. Ran the brown analog 2 wire from the LC-1 to terminal 1 of the terminal block.

Followed the directions for calibrating the sensor and everything works perfectly. Now just have to figure out what the numbers mean.:biggrin:

Next up will be fuel pressure logging. Got the transducer coming from Caspers and an adapter from Summit. Have a hood mounted fuel pressure gauge and there is an adapter that for the braid line hooked to the fuel log. Just have to undo the line put in the adapter and thread in the transducer and wire. Will take some pics when I do it.

Hmmm, what else can I hook up to the Powerlogger after that??? How about a pulse meter for passengers.:biggrin:
 
The controler is fine under the car. Mine is right next to the heater box. The harness runs across the firewall and throught the big rubber grommet on the drivers side. It is pleanty long
Mike

This is exactly what I did with mine.
 
Where is the power trunk release button?

I have an actuator in the trunk but no button. :confused:
 
It is VERY important that you install the O2 sensor at the 10 o'clock to 2 o'clock postion or it WILL cause a sensor failure. Any water that condensates in the pipe will KILL the O2 snessor if it hits it. They are heated and a water drop will fracture the element (or what ever it is called) if it hits it. I had this happen to mine. I moved the sensor location to prevent that. It clearly states this in the directions. 'Course, being a guy, I didn't read the directions, untill AFTER my sensor went dead in short order. I mean how hard is it to weld in a bung and hook up some wires?!?!;) After only a few hours of run time, it went belly up. I started to read ALL the directions, and what'ya know..........It tells you (me actually) to install the sensor as high on the pipe as you can. Vertical is best. You can see it just under the AC line.
 

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They also want them downstream of the turbo at least 18" because of the heat of the turbo.
 
I thought I read somewhere that the sensor couldn't go over 900 degree's or it would make it go bad? I think I read that on the LM1 website. If mounting it closer to the turbo I would think that it would see higher temps than 900F.
Please correct me if im wrong.

Are you guys not using the LM1 box to read to numbers? if, so where are you mounting the box? Are you using scanmaster to read to numbers?

Don't they have a new smaller version (box) out now?
 
the sensor needs to be pretty far down stream as these WB sensors dont like heat at all. i like to mount them in the test pipe to keep it nice and cool. as far as the box. we run an LC-1 hooked straight to the powerlogger.
 
power logger is a scan tool that attaches to the bottom of the ecm. its by far the best scan tool for the buicks that run a factory ecm
 
Didn't know about that. I know what my next purchase will be.

Can you still put your ECM back in the origianal spot after you add the power logger? Is there still room?

How do you record using the powerlogger. You do it by the laptop? How do you get it to record boost?

Thanks
 
Didn't know about that. I know what my next purchase will be.

Can you still put your ECM back in the origianal spot after you add the power logger? Is there still room?

How do you record using the powerlogger. You do it by the laptop? How do you get it to record boost?

Thanks


Powerlogger mounts to the bottom of the ECM on the same connector that Direct Scan did. It requires a small cutout be made in the bottom plastic piece that the ECM sits down into (this cannot be seen after everything's re-installed).

There is an analog interface device that is connected to the PL. It is what you can feed with various optional inputs, such as a wideband O2 signal, a signal from a 3 bar maps sensor, etc, etc.

Yes, a laptop is required for data logging.

You can also get a chip to modify your scanmaster so it can interface with the PL and display whatever info is being sent to the afformentioned analog device.

You can see this analog device in TR Custom's post of photos earlier in this thread. It's the 3rd photo.
 
so laying the big plug of the lc1 on top of the tranny is not a good idea .could that be why i am getting a code 8 ?
 
Do you mean the controller the sensor plugs into? That needs to be away from extra heat. I could not get the LC-1 to work correctly on my car. Maybe someone with success with it will chime in.
 
yes that's what i mean thats where i have it its fairly new and its giving me a over heating problem .it starts and warms up reads ok then after the car warms up driving around not long it starts to to flash 7.5 and the red light gives me the 8 code over heating or bad sensor .i have the bung welded at the test pipe so i don't think it's over heating there could it be where i have the controller if i move it might it stop over heating ?
 
Yes, move it way from heat sources.
 
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