Lets talk about air lines.

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Steve V

Steve V's Automotive 757 560 2782
Joined
Jan 5, 2004
Messages
4,376
OK,so I have a brand new 60 gal IR comp given to me by my newborn(goosh she is so sweet). I have the wiring problem resolved. Now I am rubber hose,but I want to run hard lines to both lifts a future blast cabinent and some general air drops. 2 outside,2 at the lifts,1 for blast cabinet.

Should I use pcv pipe or the new plastic stuff with push locks. Opinions?

Thanks guys.:)
 
The shark bite and other newer push lock type fittings work great. We use it in the steel mill and that is as harsh of environment as you are going to find. You will find the occasional bad fitting that leaks no matter what you do.
 
Check out RAPIDAIR compressed air systems , Northern Tool sells it , I'm thinking of installing it in my garage over the GM holiday shutdown while my son is home on leave.
Sam
 
Check out RAPIDAIR compressed air systems , Northern Tool sells it , I'm thinking of installing it in my garage over the GM holiday shutdown while my son is home on leave.
Sam

Rapidair looks very nice.

Now will 1/2 be enough volumn for a blast cabinet? Tempting to go 3/4 on the entire setup. My garage is 30x40.
 
PVC will leak or burst with temp extremes. I would also put a condensation drop loop before your appliance for easy access. HTH.
 
Make sure you get the hi-flow fittings! They really make a diff when you need max press/volume to that impact gun for a stubborn rusty bolt;)

Kevin
 
I would stay away from pvc lines. While there might be some who scowff, and tell how theirs is pvc and it has been in service umpteen years. The problem isn't when it is working good. It is when it fails. Exploding shards of plastic isn't my idea of a good time. Why anyone would chance it is beyond me.

That said the lines specifically designed for pressurized air and the quick pushloc fittings are big time savers. I would go with iron pipe or copper if funds allow. Sweating fittings or threading pipe would be the drawbacks, though longevity is one of the benefits.
 
You guessed it, I used PVC!

But only where it's covered from fragging somebody, to save money. Like in the ceilings. Where it's out in the garage, I used the rapidair stuff.

Things to consider when running your lines;

Use a braided flex-hose to connect the compressor to the mounted hardlines to eliminate vibration damage to the mounted lines.

Always run them up-hill instead of level, that way condensation will fall back to the previous segment. Kinda like drip loops. I put T fitting's before segment changes with a foot of down pipe and fittings on their bottoms to drain the line condensation occasionally.

If you're going to put an outside fitting on the back wall or something make sure there's a couple feet of line from the main in cold climate like I live in, and have a valve on each end of that before going out the wall. Make sure you go uphill to the 'out' line too. I learned the hard way when the cold outside air caused condensate freezing in my hardlines. Double valves and another filter closer to the compressor helped that prob.

Hope those are helpful.
 
PCV can be used without an issue. You just have to use the right stuff. The thicker the better and not normal water line. My old boss used the cheapest he could get and it wasn't unusual for one of us to get with shards when it blew up but it worked ok. Make sure to have drops below each outlet to keep the water out of course and use at least 2 dryers. One off the compressor and one before the blaster. That will keep the air clean at the blaster.:)
 
There's a thread in the How to secton on where I ran mine. I used copper.
 
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