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Looking to lower my 60'???

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turbov6joe

Signal 1 J-12
Joined
May 22, 2002
Messages
2,220
Other than a good set of sticky tires and a hard launch, what other suspension things have you all addressed with good results? I already have Metco lowers, and am considering the torque arm John P. sells. Any other suggestions or comments? I do not want to have the overly rough ride that is associated with solid mounted parts, so leave those ideas out for now. The best 60' I could muster to date is a 1.87 with Nitto DR's (26 psi cold) and a 4 psi launch. I'm looking for LOW 1.6's right now. I'm all ears!
 
8-10psi launch with some worn out bfg drag radials and 89stock suspension will do it.Launch off of stageright transbrake.
 
It may be unorthodox and a lot of work, but my secret is switching to drum brake rear end, a line-lock to keep 'em cool during burnout, and 12-16 PSI launch on 26-11.5 ET Streets on your favorite light wheel. My suspension is stock. Don't forget the adjustable proportioning valve to tone down the pressure to the rears.
I suppose the trans brake would have a similar effect, but harder on un-preloaded rear end.
My best 60' is 1.53. Usually in the 1.56- 1.58 range until the tires start to get old.
 
Originally posted by webleyaz
Don't forget the adjustable proportioning valve to tone down the pressure to the rears.
My best 60' is 1.53. Usually in the 1.56- 1.58 range until the tires start to get old.
Not to take away from Joes' thread, but can you elaborate a bit more on the adj prop valve. I have the wheel cylinders, soft shoes and line lock and have noticed that the rears grab hard now with a soft touch on the brake. Where can I get one of these, where does it install, and can I still hold 8 to 10 lb of boost (or maybe I just readjust at the track). Thanks
 
You guys complicate things too much..turbov6joe..ya want 1.60 60 foots..get some slicks..I use 26x10 M/T..put them at 14 lbs...smoke'm..go to the line..pump the brake a couple times...Pull on the e-brake handle...mash the throttle..when boost hits 15lbs..let go the "brakes"..Bada Bing..guaranteed 1.60 every time.

Now the 1.6 on nitto's..now that requires two things..one is track prep..there better not be a Honda for a 1000 yards..next is controlling spool up on the turbo to not hit the tires excessively hard..On the stock turbo..Piece o cake..on an aftermarket/bigger turbo with stall converter..better be patient..Ive hit 1.69 on Nitto's at 18 lbs stock turbo at 3lbs launch..on the new turbo..fugedaboutit..

Suspension mods...Nada..Zilch..nothing..even has the factory rear pads,shocks,everything...

KISS..the best principle..get sum slicks and quit playing..you'll be amazed :)..guaranteed or your money back ;)

And when I say pull on the ebrake...pull it hard :D

Julio
 
Same here...Hard on the e-brake;) ....305-40-16M&H Racemasters...First pass on them pulled a 1.64..60'..No suspension work period....Just a set of global west SFC....HTH..Shawn
 
Stock setup and suspension with Nitto's and I could cut 1.6-1.7 at 3 different tracks up here.

New turbo, converter, Nitto's proving to be harder. Down to 1.83 but getting better.
 
Launching my stock car off the e-brake with bfg drag radials gets me 1.71-1.73 60 fts. I run 12 psi in the BFG's, anything more and they spin.


HTH
 
I may have had issues with my factory discs. I tried everything. I did the e-brake thing, rebuilt the calipers, replaced the calipers, replaced the rotors, swapped the big disc set-up for the smaller ones used on non-ws6 rear disc cars (this was actually to accomidate the wheels I bought), then finally swapped in the drums. Aluminum drums, that is. Less rotating weight than discs, 0 drag (discs keep a few PSI of line pressure to keep the pads against the rotors so you can stop the next time you need to). I'm not saying I don't believe you guys have held a lot of boost with discs. I just couldn't get it right. BTW, I still have to use the e-brake for launches above 12 PSI. But I've seen 20#s on the gauge at launch. It didn't stick but they didn't spin untill I let off the brakes!
I'm guessing that the reason your drums are so grabby is because disc brakes need 1-1/2 times as much pressure to work so if your proportioning valve is one from a rear dics car it'll have way too much rear pressure for drums.
Two options:
First - procure a factory drum car's proportioning valve. This is the easy way out. Unbolt from donor car and bolt into your car.
Second - omit factory proportioning valve, install adjustable proportioning valve between master cylinder and rear brakes, and install a line lock between master cylinder and front brakes. The line lock is optional, of course, but marvelous at burnout time.
HTH in your quest for air under the left front. Been there, done that. It's a whole new world.
 
Hey Chris I know what you mean. When I bought my car I could seriously pull to the line, hold the ebrake and stand on the foot brake and sit with 20psi. I finally wore out the brakes and replaced all 4 rotors and used GM pads and the car wouldnt hold 3psi after that. I got a T-Brake but I like launching off the foot brake better, there is more control and you can "feel" the car better.

I took the front sway bar off the car as the only suspension mod and had original front struts (100K) miles.

I went 1.62 with the stock Turbo/Convertor/Nittos leaving with 15+psi.

I went 1.56 with a PT51/Stock Convertor/Quick Time pro's leaving with 15-17psi or so.

4psi isnt gonna get the car outa the hole at all. MORE BOOOOST!
 
I agree with ya on the boost thing, not to mention the turbo is no where near it's launch efficiency at 4 psi. I got tired of rolling through the lights so I went with a Stageright and love it! I had one in my other car, so it's no stranger to me in the TTA. I'll be in Noble next week on a good track and have some M&H's to try and whittle my 60' down with. That track freak'n hooks, so low 1.6's shouldn't be a problem. At a terminal speed of 120 mph on a 1.91, I ran a 12.13....a low 1.6 should net some mid to lower 11's pretty easily! I figure the motor has some 123 mph passes in it once I get the 50's dialed in like the stockers I had in it when I ran 119.84 mph. I'm in the process of trying a few different chips, and will get to the track this Friday to get'er tuned in before I make the trip to OK. The beauty of all this is I'm still running through the stock exhaust elbow, 2.5" DP, and the OE exhaust (nice and quiet)!
 
turbov6joe,Whats your combo?Does it include a different intercooler,turbo,etc?
 
TE44, MSD 50's, IC and 1/2, ATR 2.5" DP with OE elbow, Metco lowers, Walbro 340m, Racetronix hotwire kit, SMC alky....that's it. I actually ran 119.84 MPH with OE injectors!
 
I had a te44 with a .85 exhaust housing.1.8 was fastest 60' because of lack of enough converter.Turbo would not come up fast enough.Put the stock turbo back on and run faster.Oh well go fiqure.I'm thinking of selling the car and buying a stage car.:cool:
 
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