I may have had issues with my factory discs. I tried everything. I did the e-brake thing, rebuilt the calipers, replaced the calipers, replaced the rotors, swapped the big disc set-up for the smaller ones used on non-ws6 rear disc cars (this was actually to accomidate the wheels I bought), then finally swapped in the drums. Aluminum drums, that is. Less rotating weight than discs, 0 drag (discs keep a few PSI of line pressure to keep the pads against the rotors so you can stop the next time you need to). I'm not saying I don't believe you guys have held a lot of boost with discs. I just couldn't get it right. BTW, I still have to use the e-brake for launches above 12 PSI. But I've seen 20#s on the gauge at launch. It didn't stick but they didn't spin untill I let off the brakes!
I'm guessing that the reason your drums are so grabby is because disc brakes need 1-1/2 times as much pressure to work so if your proportioning valve is one from a rear dics car it'll have way too much rear pressure for drums.
Two options:
First - procure a factory drum car's proportioning valve. This is the easy way out. Unbolt from donor car and bolt into your car.
Second - omit factory proportioning valve, install adjustable proportioning valve between master cylinder and rear brakes, and install a line lock between master cylinder and front brakes. The line lock is optional, of course, but marvelous at burnout time.
HTH in your quest for air under the left front. Been there, done that. It's a whole new world.