Lost fer Words. Not again!

[ttypewhite]

Check grounds, try another o2 and, try another injector harness, and lastly try another map sensor. Have you tried another ignition module?? There is a black wire (either 3 or 4th wire from the fire wall that is a ground) probe that wire and see if it is making a good ground. Mine wasn't years ago and I had to spice into it and run a ground wire to the body of the car. Been solid ever since. With these cars you can be chasing the simplest things due to their age. Their could be a break in a wire under the loom that can be causing your issues. Verify this line at the ecu and just before the ignition module shows it's getting a good ground.

 

[EVIL]

Thanks. I will attack it again today.

Can the crank sensor come out without removing the balancer?

D

 

[ttypewhite]

Thanks. I will attack it again today.

Can the crank sensor come out without removing the balancer?

D

Yes

 

[EVIL]

Yes

thanks

D

 

[ikle]

So the car dies when closed loop or open loop? That would be a good indication of where to start.

I recently had issue with a vac leak. It was to the point where when the car was in closed loop idle, perfect, flawless. The second it went to open loop, you noticed an irregularity in idle. Again while the car was cold you couldn't tell anything. Double check that you don't have any vac leaks. Specifically coming from the intake gasket. I called my intake pipe off after the maf with PVC piping from Home Depot and capped off the exhaust. Then I took the air compressor and connected it to the vac line right where it hooks up to the map sensor. Turned the air on to 20psi, and look for leaks. The leak came from the intake valley pan gasket. Replacing that now. I had knock too. ECM was pulling timing after a few second in boost above 5psi. When at max boost (15psi) I would see 5-7 degrees of timing being pulled. All because of the vac leak.

Just suggesting this so that a vac leak can be ruled out.


Posted from the TurboBuick.Com mobile app

Question for you, if there is a Vac leak from the intake wouldn't his BLM's be higher than normal (128) ? Thanks, Kyle.

 

[EVIL]

Today I unplugged the injector wires one at a time. There wasn’t really any difference in the way it ran.
I changed the map sensor and the vacuum line as well. no change.
I checked all the ground wires and all seems good. I even tightened them a bit more.
I changed my TT chip with my old Commander chip. no change.

I did notice quite a bit of water coming out of where the dump pipe meets the exhaust.
The car was only run for 10 to 30 seconds maybe 15 times
Tomorrow I will drain the tank and put fresh 93 in.

Please check these loose plugs in these pics. I’m pretty sure I don’t need them but i just don’t know for sure.
Also there is a pic of a thin ground wire coming from the fire wall and goes behind the heat shield on the heater box. Is that right?

There is also a thick ground wire on the passenger side that goes to intake.

this one is right near the map sensor

This is the water leaking from dump connection

this plug is by the steering shaft

this is the thin ground wire from fire wall to behind heater heat shield

 

[Pronto]

Thin ground is for the heater core. Wire near the PM is the feed for the hood light. Leaks from exhaust is just condensation, mine does the same. Once warmed up that goes away. I forget what the double plug is for.

 

[Lil Truck]

The small ground wire is correct, it connects to the heater core to reduce electrolysis. I have the same brown 2 pos connector unplugged, not sure of it use.

Water, most likely Exh system condensation.

 

[EVIL]

Thanks for the wire info.
I can understand exhaust condensation but this water was coming out pretty good.

Oh well. Off to work.

D

 

[Lil Truck]

I see the car is on jacks, if the front is lower than the back all the condensation will run to the flange connection. There is a lot during the first minutes of a cold start. If your concerned of HG leakage check the radiator level.

I have experienced your idle problem when I was testing rebuilt MAF sensors and once when a screen fell out of a good MAF.

 

[trixdout]

Question for you, if there is a Vac leak from the intake wouldn't his BLM's be higher than normal (128) ? Thanks, Kyle.

In my car, i did not see high blm's unless I was lightly cruising. So I was only pressing the gas a little. If I let go of the gas, my blms would go to 128-132, but as soon as I hit the throttle, the blms would to 140-146


Posted from the TurboBuick.Com mobile app

 

[aminga]

Thin ground is for the heater core. Wire near the PM is the feed for the hood light. Leaks from exhaust is just condensation, mine does the same. Once warmed up that goes away. I forget what the double plug is for.

Hobbs switch for digital dash cars

 

[Pronto]

Oh ya, my friend used to have a dd Limited.

 

[nonosv6]

When you say water coming from exhaust , it is just water and not coolant right? What head gaskets did you use? I had coolant coming out my exhaust when I first started my motor with the cometic gaskets, but after a few heat cycles they sealed up. I'm supposed to be getting surgery on my knee on Monday, but should be good by the weekend. Maybe I can lend a hand at some point soon. Joel

 

[EVIL]

Hey Joel. It’s just water not coolant. Oil is clean. Antifreeze is clean. It must be condensation like mentioned earlier. Just allot of it. It makes me question what’s going on in the fuel. I appreciate the offer. I’m almost at the point where I could use a second set of eyes and ears.

What kind of knee surgery? I had torn cartilage repaired years ago. Arthroscopy and debridement of the knee. It took a few months to heal enough to walk. It was a rough one. When your better and would like to come down and trouble shoot you are welcome here.

Good luck.

D

 

[nonosv6]

Well I have a torn meniscus in my knee, plus they are removing hardware thats in there from a motorcycle accident I had bout 12 years ago. Fun stuff! Lol. They said I should be back up in a couple days and only on crutches for a few days. But I guess we will see. I was on crutches for 6 months after my accident so I'm ok with it. Haha. I have a power logger and computer for my silver car that I haven't installed yet. Maybe we can use it and try to get some more info out of the car and see what's going on. Another thing is make sure the crank sensor is installed with the correct clearance and that there's no crap on it or the balancer throwing stuff off.
I could be way off here but did you try unplugging the cam sensor and seeing if it ran better? Maybe it's 180 out? Just throwing stuff out there. And as previously said , there could be a broken wire in the harness that's out of sight. Painstaking but maybe bust out a meter and start checking continuity and resistance on the harness. If there's something I have that you can use that will help , just let me know. I'm not that far from you. Joel

 

[EVIL]

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