Lots of upgrades, but still no power.

[TURBO2]

Well after tons of calls I found out they killed off Turbonetics. They also dumped all resources they had to even look up these turbos.
I did find that it is a Turbonetics Cheeta 11342-BB, but that's all I could find, as it seems they used the same part number but had Stage 1 - Stage 4.

 

[Reggie West]

Did you ever have time to look at the data logs?

Sorry man I am dragging my behind. I will have answers tonight.

 

[V6sleeper]

Well after tons of calls I found out they killed off Turbonetics. They also dumped all resources they had to even look up these turbos.
I did find that it is a Turbonetics Cheeta 11342-BB, but that's all I could find, as it seems they used the same part number but had Stage 1 - Stage 4.

That should be a 60-1 compressor wheel and an f1 turbine , 60mm comp if billet with a 57mm turbine or a 59mm compressor wheel if its an old cast , the exhaust turbine can be a 57 or a 65mm , i know.. t-netic's is a little confusing,the back plate should be red but possible gold if an older model

 

[TURBO2]

That should be a 60-1 compressor wheel and an f1 turbine , 60mm comp if billet with a 57mm turbine or a 59mm compressor wheel if its an old cast , the exhaust turbine can be a 57 or a 65mm , i know.. t-netic's is a little confusing,the back plate should be red but possible gold if an older model

The only markings I could find on it were the UPC Bar with the 11342-BB and another with the S/N#. Is the back plate in a totally different area?

 

[V6sleeper]

The only markings I could find on it were the UPC Bar with the 11342-BB and another with the S/N#. Is the back plate in a totally different area?

Back plate is the big disc behind the compressor cover .. like this gold one on this old school T66

 

[Reggie West]

Sorry man I am dragging my behind. I will have answers tonight.

I sent you an email.

 

[ITSAV6]

Adding timing here (on 0 boost line )will help get up on boost Won’t give u specific # but mine is way higher. Remember off boost it’s 8:1 N/A v6

 

[ITSAV6]

Here’s hand drawn timing map for my turbo Foxbody. It’s on MS Gen2. The N/A section is stock ecm timing +4 deg. The boost side copy of someone else’s map. All the BS # have a square around them and better one written in. Spool was crap with manual. All came in at 4500 Works well now

 

[TURBO2]

Well, here we go again. I removed the plenum, tried to sand the intake as true as I could, did the same to the plenum and cleaned it all up with brake parts cleaner. I put the plenum back on taking a suggestion of another member, of converting to studs and using the gasket sealed with Hylomar. After totally assembling everything I used my smoke machine and found zero leaks!
I went to take it for a ride and noticed it was even lazier than before. I got it up to about 13psi boost and that was all it had. I made it about 2 miles and noticed the dreaded high idle creeping in again. I brought it back home, did another smoke test, and once again the plenum is leaking like crazy from just behind the TB. It's like this thing is cursed. Nothing will seal it for more than a few miles. I think the longest I've gone without some sort of vacuum leak is maybe 100 miles and that was by using JBWeld , and even that failed.

 

[mblum]

That is unfortunate for sure.

What gasket and what are the torque specs your using for the upper plenum?

It may be time to remove the intake and take it and the upper plenum to a engine machine shop and let them inspect and re-surface each of them. If they are flat you should have no issues with that blowing out.

 

[TURBO2]

That is unfortunate for sure.

What gasket and what are the torque specs your using for the upper plenum?

It may be time to remove the intake and take it and the upper plenum to a engine machine shop and let them inspect and re-surface each of them. If they are flat you should have no issues with that blowing out.

I'm using a stock style gasket (this time with Hylomar as a sealer), and torquing to 180 in/lbs.
I just don't understand this thing. I've had vehicles that just looking at them you could see the parts weren't even close to being true, but a seal and a little bit of RTV and no leaks. This thing just will not seal no matter what I use. I don't see how 13 psi of boost can stretch stainless steel studs and lift a sealed plenum off of the intake and blow out the seal.
I really don't want all the hassle of removing the whole intake, paying to have 0.001 inch taken off to get it completely true, just to have to leak again.

 

[mblum]

Agreed, you want to make sure the hassle of removing the intake is worth it and ensures it's fixed. For that gasket to blow out in the same spot each time I would suspect the gasket is not being compressed the same amount in that area compared to the other areas around the plenum.

Do you have a 0-1 micrometer by chance? For a test you could install a new plenum gasket and torque to spec. Then before running remove the gasket and measure the compressed thickness of the gasket and see what the area that is prone to blow out looks like compared to the rest of the gasket. If it's always blowing out in that same area something has to be going on there, 13 psi should not blow that out.

Are you running a RJC Power Plate? If so it may be worth measuring the thickness of that plate around the entire sealing perimeter to make sure it's uniform.

 

[xlr8ngn]

Straight edge and feeler gauge will tell you what's going on, or a piece of fine sandpaper and glass will also.

 

[TURBO2]

Agreed, you want to make sure the hassle of removing the intake is worth it and ensures it's fixed. For that gasket to blow out in the same spot each time I would suspect the gasket is not being compressed the same amount in that area compared to the other areas around the plenum.

Do you have a 0-1 micrometer by chance? For a test you could install a new plenum gasket and torque to spec. Then before running remove the gasket and measure the compressed thickness of the gasket and see what the area that is prone to blow out looks like compared to the rest of the gasket. If it's always blowing out in that same area something has to be going on there, 13 psi should not blow that out.

Are you running a RJC Power Plate? If so it may be worth measuring the thickness of that plate around the entire sealing perimeter to make sure it's uniform.

No powerplate.
I do have a micrometer.

 

[TURBO2]

Straight edge and feeler gauge will tell you what's going on, or a piece of fine sandpaper and glass will also.

When I was sanding it, it appeared to be only slightly out near the back but so far towards the edge that it's out of the main sealing area.

 

[GNVYUS 1]

Just to be clear... it's leaking in the picture at
Blue 1
Red 2?

 

[V6sleeper]

i would pull this turbo off and check for side to side shaft play , it doesn't have to leak or smoke to be shot

 

[TURBO2]

Just to be clear... it's leaking in the picture at
Blue 1
Red 2?

Red 2, plenum to intake is the leak point.
TB to plenum is sealed.
Now that it has cooled down, I checked it over and found the front drivers side stud was ripped right out of the threads on the intake, and passenger side front was loose, so maybe that one is ready to go to.

 

[GNVYUS 1]

Thanks

Now that you're pretty confident your plenum is flat, I was going to say might be time to address plenum holes, go studs or retap etc and then you crank the hell out of them and see results.

 

[TURBO2]

Thanks

Now that you're pretty confident your plenum is flat, I was going to say might be time to address plenum holes, go studs or retap etc and then you crank the hell out of them and see results.

That's what I did. I put stainless steel inserts in, switched to studs, torqued them down, and magically starting the car and bringing it up to 13psi boost rips them right out. It makes no sense at all to me.
Tomorrow, before it gets close to 100 out, I'll have to rip it all apart. Most likely the intake is garbage now, unless I want to try drilling and tapping up another size and drilling out the plenum holes.