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I think even that built in can be corrected to smooth out the big variations.
Lots of upgrades, but still no power.
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16 in is on par for stock Buick
I would set my skilling to 3 BAR
It's easy to do that with Holley and keep Eric timing table intact.
Im no tuner and would not question Eric or the software , but Holley gives us 32X32 grid with more resolution
and timing in boost (6 psi) starts out low (16* @ 1000 RPM and goes to 25*@7000) looks backwards to me.
Is this Eric tune he sent you ? If it is Im out, It just doesn't look like the ALKY chip I got from him , but I just started to map it out on graph paper.
I would set my skilling to 3 BAR
It's easy to do that with Holley and keep Eric timing table intact.
Im no tuner and would not question Eric or the software , but Holley gives us 32X32 grid with more resolution
and timing in boost (6 psi) starts out low (16* @ 1000 RPM and goes to 25*@7000) looks backwards to me.
Is this Eric tune he sent you ? If it is Im out, It just doesn't look like the ALKY chip I got from him , but I just started to map it out on graph paper.
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When you get it running again give me a call. I can help you with tuning the car.
A couple of things to start with.
#1 Turn the boost down to 10 psi. You will pop a head gasket trying to run 17 psi on 93 octane and a shitty tune. Get the car running right at 10 psi and build on it from there.
#2 You will never get to max out that combo on 93 octane gas. You need to run an alky kit with 93, race gas (expensive) or E85.
ITSAV6
It's my Granny's car!
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I think the Megasquirt stuff doesn’t just drop or spike timing if the table has big gaps between lines of timing table.
Yes, this is Eric's tune. I have gone up slightly on boost while using auto tune for the fueling. Eric said so far it looks good. I haven't added in the meth injection yet as I don't want to cover up tune or mechanical problems by just adding meth.
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I started out at about 13psi and kept adding about a pound of boost until I started seeing knock. Right now, I only get knock once in a while at odd places, and my audible knock alarm never goes off so......false knock maybe. I haven't gone any higher.
I could be wrong but, I believe the MS just does a calculation if it's between points in the tables, whether it's fuel or timing.
GNVYUS 1
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Post #60, you're done driving it this mentions.
Are you making new pulls or are your recent posts about the past pulls?
Are you making new pulls or are your recent posts about the past pulls?
fully interpolated, and when you get to the end of the table it just uses the last row or column.
Those were the last runs right before the plenum seal failed again.
After I calmed down a bit, I tore it back apart and now converted it all to studs, tried to smooth out the intake, and now I'm deciding what type of seal I'm going to try this time. Hopefully I will be able to get it running within a few days and do some more runs.
GNVYUS 1
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Oh nice, it's Summer so try to enjoy it.
You'll get there, don't forget to try that rod in vs solenoid boost raising, this might be your slow spool winner. Also to be safe might need to add in some Boostane for these tests.
You'll get there, don't forget to try that rod in vs solenoid boost raising, this might be your slow spool winner. Also to be safe might need to add in some Boostane for these tests.
You have to be very careful tuning on pump gas that stuff is junk. Do yourself a favor and stay at the 13 lbs of boost. I also have the ECU GN that had a base tune from Eric. I started tuning it very slowly myself and started at 14lbs and and currently at 26 lbs 2 plus years later. Best time so far 6.99 107.7 1/8 mile From what I’ve seen your timing table needs help. Let me know if you want help.
I had checked it out and the rod is already shortened about as short as it can go.
GNVYUS 1
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For Reference , on my stock'ish set up car this net's me exactly 25 pounds of boost, you have to play with it and find a balance if your not going to use a real controller
GNVYUS 1
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From the looks of it, looks similar in threads left but after the checks below (do this after exhaust leak tests) doesn't hurt to...
Move the nut back 2-4 full turns in...
Turn in rod 2-4 turns in....
Take OUT solenoid boost level DC
Get that Boostane to add safety.
Aside from fat AFR...
You might just have a few exhaust leaks causing the slow spool, cross over and driver header cracks are usual suspects. Time to find that KFC (Kentucky Fried Cannibus) and get some smoke, candles and do some leak checks. LOL
Move the nut back 2-4 full turns in...
Turn in rod 2-4 turns in....
Take OUT solenoid boost level DC
Get that Boostane to add safety.
Aside from fat AFR...
You might just have a few exhaust leaks causing the slow spool, cross over and driver header cracks are usual suspects. Time to find that KFC (Kentucky Fried Cannibus) and get some smoke, candles and do some leak checks. LOL
I already backed the nut off all the way to the end of the threads, but there is no adjustment left, that's as far as the rod will move in.
I'll have to try doing the smoke test on the exhaust after I figure out how I'm going to try and seal the intake this time.
Did you ever have time to look at the data logs?
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