Lots of upgrades, but still no power.

[mblum]

If the car is running with no apparent ignition problems and you have the appropriate amount of fuel to achieve your target AFR and you have boost pressure and if you have no intake/exhaust restrictions then I would say the engine is not moving air. Boost pressure is not an indicator of air flow, but simply manifold pressure of trying to get into the engine.

If everything is checking out like you are saying I would be looking at the engine mechanically for something amiss, such as wiped cam lobes, valve springs that are not up to the task. I know you said you replaced those, but they are critical to the engine and it's ability to perform to it's full potential. Plus at least a compression check.

 

[mblum]

If you have a stock internal engine that retains the stock cam shaft, what is your vacuum at idle?

 

[TURBO2]

What does "seem good" mean?
Post the tune, some short data logs, and the guroos can take a gander...

What does "seem good" mean?
Post the tune, some short data logs, and the guroos can take a gander...

Just what I said...lol, it seems good to me, but I am in no way a tuner. I'm trying to learn how, and make small adjustments and seeing what the outcome is. An experienced tuner may say, no it's all messed up in these areas.

 

[xlr8ngn]

I know you said all new, but any chance you still have the original cat converter in the exhaust?

 

[TURBO2]

If you have a stock internal engine that retains the stock cam shaft, what is your vacuum at idle?

Vac is 16.7 at idle.
Going by how it idles, I wouldn't think it would be a wiped cam (I could be totally wrong).

 

[TURBO2]

I know you said all new, but any chance you still have the original cat converter in the exhaust?

No, I got rid of the original CAT and replaced it with a free flow CAT last fall along with the rest of the exhaust. It's all very strange to me. It's getting plenty of air in and out, building good boost, but something is not right. Maybe I just screwed up on the tune.

 

[TURBO2]

If the car is running with no apparent ignition problems and you have the appropriate amount of fuel to achieve your target AFR and you have boost pressure and if you have no intake/exhaust restrictions then I would say the engine is not moving air. Boost pressure is not an indicator of air flow, but simply manifold pressure of trying to get into the engine.

If everything is checking out like you are saying I would be looking at the engine mechanically for something amiss, such as wiped cam lobes, valve springs that are not up to the task. I know you said you replaced those, but they are critical to the engine and it's ability to perform to it's full potential. Plus at least a compression check.

I'll have to pull the plugs and do a compression check. The gauge I have isn't working, so I'll have to get a new one.

 

[xlr8ngn]

No, I got rid of the original CAT and replaced it with a free flow CAT last fall along with the rest of the exhaust. It's all very strange to me. It's getting plenty of air in and out, building good boost, but something is not right. Maybe I just screwed up on the tune.

Building boost means there's a load. If the load is not from acceleration, it's something else. I would disconnect/open the exhaust pre-cat, and make a run. That free flow cat may not be free flowing.

 

[V6sleeper]

I've never had it on a dyno.
My Dakota Digital Dash is putting it at;
0-60 in 9.4 seconds
1/4 in 19.3

Thats unacceptable performance numbers, what torque converter is in the car

 

[TURBO2]

Thats unacceptable performance numbers, what torque converter is in the car

PATC 2800 stall.

 

[GNVYUS 1]

It can be as simple as the wastegate actuator/DP puck, if it's not staying firmly closed or there's a big leak etc, the cars super lazy like...
0-60 in 9.4 seconds.

What's controlling boost psi...
Stock solenoid
Manual boost controller
Solenoid and ECU-GN

You'll get there with the forum help and labor time.

 

[Chuck Leeper]

A system back pressure test is in order.
Also, reading plugs is essential.

 

[TURBO2]

It can be as simple as the wastegate actuator/DP puck, if it's not staying firmly closed or there's a big leak etc, the cars super lazy like...
0-60 in 9.4 seconds.

What's controlling boost psi...
Stock solenoid
Manual boost controller
Solenoid and ECU-GN

You'll get there with the forum help and labor time.

I'm using the ecuGN to control an aftermarket boost solenoid.

 

[xlr8ngn]

A system back pressure test is in order.
Also, reading plugs is essential.

Since you're using the ECUGN and your O2 is in the downpipe, your stock O2 hole can be used for the back pressure test.

 

[GNVYUS 1]

Yep now you're looking for exhaust leaks, actuator function, rod length etc.

What's your foot brake stall rpm and psi?
If the cars this lazy you're probably not seeing any or much boost at say 2800rpm.

 

[Chuck Leeper]

Anyone looked at the tune and data log???

 

[TURBO2]

Yep now you're looking for exhaust leaks, actuator function, rod length etc.

What's your foot brake stall rpm and psi?
If the cars this lazy you're probably not seeing any or much boost at say 2800rpm.

I don't have a data log power braking it.
A WOT take off without loading it runs about 3 - 5 psi boost.

 

[dynoman]

Plus at least a compression check.

^^^ This plus a leak down test , smoke test , intake and exhaust .
If any of these tests show poor results the motor WILL run poorly .
If the tests are good you've got to look at mechanical wear , like wiped cam lobes or weak valve springs .

 

[Chuck Leeper]

Post 36.......

 

[THensley]

IT appears we have nobody that can open a ECUGN file.
I would love to see what Eric tune looked like when poster received the ECU. Eric is almost spot on with his chips , I would think his ECU would be spot on too.
Have you got the tune the ECU came with? If so I would reload it.
These new ECU's have lots of windows you can open and you get one wrong your garbage in is garbage out.
You may have something that is pulling timing unexpectedly