I just was chatting with Eric. He said my tune is fine and he was able to show me points in the data that have a run of about 0-55 in 4.0 seconds. I'm not certain what is going on at this point, it certainly didn't feel anywhere near that fast. As soon as this crap weather passes through, I will have to make more runs and try to purposely do a bunch of 0-60 runs. The other thing that has come up is making sure to get a good launch.
Lots of upgrades, but still no power.
- Thread starter TURBO2
- Start date
- Joined
- May 25, 2001
I am not an expert but going by max fuel flow of 136 L/hr = ~215 lb/hr is about 325HP based on .65 BSFC seems a bit low for the mods. It looks like it is taking a long time to get to even 16psi; 2.5+ seconds on what looks like you are leaving off the brakes. Converter too tight? Exhaust leaks?
Yeah, it's just street runs, no power braking.
I have a PATC 2800 stall converter, and no exhaust leaks.
I have no clue, I have never raced it, so I never worried about it.
- Joined
- May 25, 2001
In his log I am seeing 0.2 psi 1925 rpm and 1psi at 2464rpm it doesn't seem to flash higher. Boost slowly follows RPM through first gear.
What is the best way to test it on the street?
- Joined
- May 28, 2001
Looking at the screenshot in post 42....
AFR at 10.6 with commanded at 11.
My $.02: It's at a disadvantage by being too fat, and as mentioned, converter flash too low.
Is the converter a re-stalled D5?
I'd look at a converter change.
Several "good guy" vendors are out there.
Back under my rock....
AFR at 10.6 with commanded at 11.
My $.02: It's at a disadvantage by being too fat, and as mentioned, converter flash too low.
Is the converter a re-stalled D5?
I'd look at a converter change.
Several "good guy" vendors are out there.
Back under my rock....
Right now it's on a 93 octane tune, and that's what I'm using.
I'm not sure. The transmission is a PATC Level 3 Raptor with a 2800 stall converter. I don't know if they build them inhouse, or they are outsourced.Looking at the screenshot in post 42....
AFR at 10.6 with commanded at 11.
My $.02: It's at a disadvantage by being too fat, and as mentioned, converter flash too low.
Is the converter a re-stalled D5?
I'd look at a converter change.
Several "good guy" vendors are out there.
Back under my rock....
I don't want to get off track here, but I don't see any mention of a higher octane fuel.
In your first post you mentioned boost levels towards 20 psi. That's pushing the limits if not exceeding the limits of 93 alone. Can it be done for a short time with great air, proper fueling and conservative timing? Sure, for a quick blast, but its really not safe to drive around with a heat soaked engine and make that kinda boost without more octane.
Fuel isn't the root of your current problem, but your never going to make huge power on 93 octane with a stock internal engine with bolt-on mods at 15 to 16 psi, which I would consider still safe.
That turbo will be way more fun and make much more power around 25-30 psi, but you will need the octane. Weather that is by spraying Alky, E85 or race gas.
Back on topic.
GNVYUS 1
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Dec 15, 2002
Looks like you're hitting 16psi with 100%TPS around roughly 4500rpm, that's what you're looking to figure it here since a TE44 on 231ci should be earlier than this. You might need to turn in the adjustable wastegate rod and then pull out Solenoid boost in ECU.
10.6AFR is fat and while some like to do this with Forced Induction on pump gas that's not helping much either.
Converter is tight, you'll have to address this later.
18psi with maybe 20 degrees of timing on pump and a 3600lb car is a bit much for my taste but if you're logging and it's showing no knock you'll have to see what is like at the end of 2nd, street pull, when there's more load on the vehicle.
10.6AFR is fat and while some like to do this with Forced Induction on pump gas that's not helping much either.
Converter is tight, you'll have to address this later.
18psi with maybe 20 degrees of timing on pump and a 3600lb car is a bit much for my taste but if you're logging and it's showing no knock you'll have to see what is like at the end of 2nd, street pull, when there's more load on the vehicle.
So, by shortening the wastegate rod will I be raising the boost off the line in 1st gear, and then be using the solenoid to drop it back down in the higher gears?
GNVYUS 1
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Dec 15, 2002
There's no simple solution but...
One of the main things about tightening the adjustable rod is that it won't be as lazy initially and creep open hurting spool. The actuator itself isn't as effective as a normal wastegate and then there's C02 and new Electric gates that go beyond those, levels and levels here man. Hahaha
I used to cheat and turn in the rod a bunch (I was running 26-28psi though) and then pull out the manual boost controller knob to where it was barely engaging so that the car would respond really fast. It was really fun like this vs the longer rod, it was clearly a faster spool when the rod was in many turns vs out and they hit the same boost psi.
It seems like you might have the factory actuator, which I'm not sure if it's 12 or 14psi anymore. You'd turn in the adjustable rod say 2 turns, pull out solenoid in the software and do this until you reach a balance. Check butt dyno and logs for results and continue.
You might be able to get too...
Rod in say 4+ turns
18-19psi still
Pull out timing down to like 17 degrees. This way the rod helps spool and you still run say 18-19psi but timing is much lower like Imports, 22psi on 14 degrees of timing.
GNs tend to be the reverse, 17psi but 20 or 22 degrees. Cylinder pressure through boost or timing, balance, go slow, keep posting back.
One of the main things about tightening the adjustable rod is that it won't be as lazy initially and creep open hurting spool. The actuator itself isn't as effective as a normal wastegate and then there's C02 and new Electric gates that go beyond those, levels and levels here man. Hahaha
I used to cheat and turn in the rod a bunch (I was running 26-28psi though) and then pull out the manual boost controller knob to where it was barely engaging so that the car would respond really fast. It was really fun like this vs the longer rod, it was clearly a faster spool when the rod was in many turns vs out and they hit the same boost psi.
It seems like you might have the factory actuator, which I'm not sure if it's 12 or 14psi anymore. You'd turn in the adjustable rod say 2 turns, pull out solenoid in the software and do this until you reach a balance. Check butt dyno and logs for results and continue.
You might be able to get too...
Rod in say 4+ turns
18-19psi still
Pull out timing down to like 17 degrees. This way the rod helps spool and you still run say 18-19psi but timing is much lower like Imports, 22psi on 14 degrees of timing.
GNs tend to be the reverse, 17psi but 20 or 22 degrees. Cylinder pressure through boost or timing, balance, go slow, keep posting back.
- Joined
- Jan 18, 2011
^^^^^^^^Listen to this post 58, just go spend $100 on race gas while you test this so you dont hurt anything . just be aware the te44 isn't going to make good power at 18psi , has to be run out into the mid 20's especially with stock heads
I'd like to thank everyone for their input. It now no longer matters.
I took it out for a ride and got about 1/4 mile from my house and didn't even get into boost yet, and once again, the intake to upper plenum seal blew out for about the 100th time. I have used the stock GM seal, aftermarket seal, seal with RTV, Black Right stuff only, Gray Right stuff only, both with a seal, Red High heat RTV with and without a seal, and once JB Weld epoxy. It always fails and at least causes a slight vacuum leak and most times low or no boost. It has suffered from this since I bought it brand new. All I can do is guess that the intake was never machined right when it was made. Back to sitting in the garage for yet another year.
I took it out for a ride and got about 1/4 mile from my house and didn't even get into boost yet, and once again, the intake to upper plenum seal blew out for about the 100th time. I have used the stock GM seal, aftermarket seal, seal with RTV, Black Right stuff only, Gray Right stuff only, both with a seal, Red High heat RTV with and without a seal, and once JB Weld epoxy. It always fails and at least causes a slight vacuum leak and most times low or no boost. It has suffered from this since I bought it brand new. All I can do is guess that the intake was never machined right when it was made. Back to sitting in the garage for yet another year.
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