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Low Pedal.

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mikejustowns

Member
Joined
Sep 12, 2008
Messages
190
I have an 84 Limited with a 4.1 V6. I just changed the pads and now the pedal is still low. The only thing I opened up was the master cylinder resv. to add fluid. I have not bled the brakes yet but is there anything else that could have happened while chnging pads?
 
Not really. Was the pedal soft before you installed the pads or did happen afterwards? If it was still soft and the pads didn't help, you need to look elsewhere. My car had soft a soft brake pedal for the longest time and I just recently pulled the drums to find out the material on the rear shoes had crumbled away. I replaced the shoes with new stock and it cleared it right up.

Also, you might want to check for leaks and keep an eye on your fluid level.
 
Back brakes need adjusting. When adjusted correctly they should lightly drag on the drum. This is what determines pedal response.
 
Thanks guys. I just bled the brakes and noticed a little change but it was still low.

Before I did the brakes the pedal was soft but I figures it was beacuse of the pads.

I will check the rear pads this week. I bet they are toast too. If not is there a thread on adjusting brakes or will it be in the Haynes manual. I dont have it with me its in my garage.
 
Couple ways to do it. If you slide off the drum, look on the bottom where the two shoes meet. There you will see a adjuster. Turn the adjuster so the shoes are pushed out toward the drum. Test fit the drum, rinse and repeat ;)
This method works good as long as there is not a lip on the edge of the drum.

You can also adjust from the rear of the drum (through the back plate) with a brake adjusting tool but thats a pain in the azz on our cars because of the lower trailing arm bracket is kinda in the way but it can be done.

Side note: If there is a lip on the edge of the drum, You can take a Angle grinder and clean it up. I've done that B4.

Let us know how it goes.
 
Couple ways to do it. If you slide off the drum, look on the bottom where the two shoes meet. There you will see a adjuster. Turn the adjuster so the shoes are pushed out toward the drum. Test fit the drum, rinse and repeat ;)
This method works good as long as there is not a lip on the edge of the drum.

You can also adjust from the rear of the drum (through the back plate) with a brake adjusting tool but thats a pain in the azz on our cars because of the lower trailing arm bracket is kinda in the way but it can be done.

Side note: If there is a lip on the edge of the drum, You can take a Angle grinder and clean it up. I've done that B4.

Let us know how it goes.



I took the drums off and did it that way. Test fit and everything. There wasnt a lip on the drum atleast.


Thanks for the help tho. I will probably bleed the drums and see if thats it.
 
If that did not help, you either have air in the system or your combonation valve is bad.
 
I bet there is air in the system.

With the car off I can press the pedal almost to the floor but with 2 pumps the pedal is stiff again. That means air right?
 
Or a bad master. Bleed it first and see if it does the same thing. If it does you need a master and don't buy a rebuilt one. I haven't gotten a good rebuilt in years so I always go new now and never have a problem.
 
Bled brakes again. Also noticed that when I puch the pedal with the car on I hear a slight whistle sound. Almost like blowing through a straw
 
i think the rear brakes are still out of adjustment- that's why the pedal gets firm after a few pumps and the shoes are finally pushed out against the drums. if the pedal never got firm, i'd say master cylinder or air in the system. do a few hard stops in reverse to let the self adjusters do their thing and i bet your brakes will feel perfect.
this is one of the reasons why you are supposed to come to a complete stop when you back up before putting the trans into drive, with the other reasons all having to do with the stresses put on every piece of the driveline from the ring and pinion gears in the rear differential to the u jointsi nthe driveshaft to the parts inside the trans.
 
i think the rear brakes are still out of adjustment- that's why the pedal gets firm after a few pumps and the shoes are finally pushed out against the drums. if the pedal never got firm, i'd say master cylinder or air in the system. do a few hard stops in reverse to let the self adjusters do their thing and i bet your brakes will feel perfect.
this is one of the reasons why you are supposed to come to a complete stop when you back up before putting the trans into drive, with the other reasons all having to do with the stresses put on every piece of the driveline from the ring and pinion gears in the rear differential to the u jointsi nthe driveshaft to the parts inside the trans.

I will deff try that. Also I used Silicone Lube on the self adjusters in each drum so it should work. I also inspected everything about 6 times.

Also rick thought it was a combo. valve. What should I be looking for to check if one of them is failing.
 
i think the rear brakes are still out of adjustment- that's why the pedal gets firm after a few pumps and the shoes are finally pushed out against the drums. if the pedal never got firm, i'd say master cylinder or air in the system. do a few hard stops in reverse to let the self adjusters do their thing and i bet your brakes will feel perfect.
this is one of the reasons why you are supposed to come to a complete stop when you back up before putting the trans into drive, with the other reasons all having to do with the stresses put on every piece of the driveline from the ring and pinion gears in the rear differential to the u jointsi nthe driveshaft to the parts inside the trans.

If you can make the brake pedal harder by pumping, that still sounds like air in the lines.

The only way the master is bad is if it's leaking.

Bad combo valve if all air has been bled out, the backs are adjusted and you still have a low pedal.
 
Thanks Rick.

Do you happen to know where I can get the tool to bleed the back brakes?

Backs are a bitch. I use a 1/4 in drive ratchet with a 5/16 socket to get to them. Once they are loose you can shove a hose over the bleeder and just finger tighten them while bleeding. Sounds so easy right? :D
 
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