Modify Alt. for for more voltage

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TT/Ameasap

The White Blur
Joined
Jan 31, 2002
Messages
5,374
I am still getting a little drop on WOT in my logs. I need to know what to do or who to send the alt to.
I have done grounds and all the other crap and this an autozone piece, so I think the alt is just not up to task. Im not going to do a volt booster either. I talked to a buddy of mine and he has is alt. modified by a shop to support his demands in the 9's.
Anyone know what what would be done?
 
whats the voltage when it drops? the tensioner is in the "window" (belt tight)? any accessories? how many amps for the prodigy pump? fast? electric fan(s)?
upgraded ground to body? i know some are using a newer impala ss alt....not sure what the amps are, cant have an alt too big...(y) what battery too?
 
the alternator voltage may not be dropping much, the ECM measures the voltage further along in the harness and you may be seeing voltage drop due to the harness.

Bob
 
the alternator voltage may not be dropping much, the ECM measures the voltage further along in the harness and you may be seeing voltage drop due to the harness.

Bob
The connectors used thru out the engine harness were not designed or intended to last 25 years.
That is a fact unfortunately, oxidation, humidty, temperatures and plating wear (from mating/unmating) along with contact fatigue lead to intermittent contact (high resistance) or complete failure (open circuit). I have replaced numerous connectors on my GN due to this, thanks Caspers! and
yes, I am an engineer who designed electical connectors for 20 years,,
 
I'm pretty sure you can stack diodes in the reference line, each diode in series will drop the voltage 0.7V which would make the alternator work harder. For example, three in series would make your alternator "see" 2.1V less than actual and it would then add that much more to your system...
 
whats the voltage when it drops? the tensioner is in the "window" (belt tight)? any accessories? how many amps for the prodigy pump? fast? electric fan(s)?
upgraded ground to body? i know some are using a newer impala ss alt....not sure what the amps are, cant have an alt too big...(y) what battery too?

140 Amp I believe.
Then there is the 200 Amp super special from Power Bastards - yeah, that's their real name.
But is amps really the problem - or volts?
 
Both, when volts drop, amerage increases...can overload/overheat a cicuit




140 Amp I believe.
Then there is the 200 Amp super special from Power Bastards - yeah, that's their real name.
But is amps really the problem - or volts?
 
The connectors used thru out the engine harness were not designed or intended to last 25 years.
That is a fact unfortunately, oxidation, humidty, temperatures and plating wear (from mating/unmating) along with contact fatigue lead to intermittent contact (high resistance) or complete failure (open circuit). I have replaced numerous connectors on my GN due to this, thanks Caspers! and
yes, I am an engineer who designed electical connectors for 20 years,,

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I ask for a time machine every Christmas, and I never get one.
No, not one with Lambo style doors and a flux capacitor - a real one.

When I get the working time machine from you, I'll go back in time and give you a 20 dollar bill.
Buy Apple stock May 31, 1985, (just a couple months before our Grand Nationals got popular) when one Mr. Steve Jobs, declared a maniac, was stripped of his power before being shown the door by then-CEO John Sculley
It is $1.98 per share on that day - you can buy 10 shares.
Let me know how you made out.
Merry Christmas!
 
And if you buy into AOL make sure to dump it before 2013

Don't be in such a big hurry.
Justin Timberlake is going to bring back sexy to AOL.
By the way - what's AOL? :D
And who is Justin Timberlake? :D
 
AOL is the philanthropic origination that used to send out 3.5" disks so you could get you pr0n off your 20MEG hard drives.

Later they branched out to sending free cases for homemade DVDs. Unfortunately that didn't last long enough to house all the home pr0ns.
 
To tell the truth, I would rather throw a known good alt on it and see what happens. I have already tried going as far as I could with the wiring system and that was a pain. I did fix some shaky grounds in the process, but those didnt do the trick.
I just need to know where to get the alt modified.
 
I am still getting a little drop on WOT in my logs. .........
...............this an autozone piece, so I think the alt is just not up to task. ......

If you see a drop in WOT voltage, first thing I would check to see if the belt is slipping?

I had this issue on my race car and new belt solved the problem along with a reman alt. It will give me 14.7 volts during a run.

I use a diode to get that voltage, and I am lucky to get 2 race seasons out of any alternator at that level.

On one my street cars I use a volt booster that will give me 14+ volts only at 70% of WOT which will prolong alternator life, but still give the needed voltage at the higher RPM range.

If you can find an alt with internal parts, especially the diode trio, that can give 14+ volts over a long period of time, please let me know as high RPM and 14+ volt output is a deadly combination.

For now I will depend on the AZ lifetime alt warranty which I have already used 3 times! :)
 
From 1 of our old GN guys.. Cal Ijames, 2007.
The crude way is to use a voltage divider on the sense input. For the
GM 12 V 120 A alternators used on the 86-87 turbo V6 Regals, an example
diagram is at: http://www.gnttype.org/techarea/projects/gnalt.html The
idea is to use a throttle or boost actuated switch to kick up the output
voltage to give the ignition and fuel pump a boost at wide open
throttle. On these alternators the dash volts light is a 194 and it
goes from battery to the L pin on the 4 pin connector, to provide both
sensing input and idiot light. The internal resistance of this bulb is
crucial, you will blow things up if it is shorted and make things very
unhappy if it is open. The S terminal, on the other hand, is for
sensing only and can be connected directly to the battery. I don't know
the limits on output voltage but 16 V is what is commonly used in
racing - enough to make a real difference in ignition and fueling but
not quite start popping lightbulbs during a sub-12 second quarter mile
blast :-). This works on all the GM alternators I've seen from the 70's
and 80's. Somewhere in the 90's the engine computer started controlling
the alternator and I'm not familiar with the details on those. A
commercial external regulator (I think; it may just be a divider too) is
available from Precision Turbo & Engine in Indiana, USA.

--
Regards,
Carl Ijames carl dott ijames aat verizon dott net
 
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