Must haves for Low 10 Sec motor

[cstavro]

series III L32 3800 with ported heads, 206* cam and T3/61 mm turbo one member ran 10.7s with a similar combo and it was very streetable in his opinion. you don't need much more than 500 bhp to move a 3200 lb car to 11.0.

it has a cast crank with rolled fillets, pm forged rods, cross bolted main caps, 8.5:1 static compression, 1.83" intake valves, and a modern pcm. it's already very robust, and all you need are ARP head studs and cometic gaskets.

 

[bison]

series III L32 3800 with ported heads, 206* cam and T3/61 mm turbo one member ran 10.7s with a similar combo and it was very streetable in his opinion. you don't need much more than 500 bhp to move a 3200 lb car to 11.0.

it has a cast crank with rolled fillets, pm forged rods, cross bolted main caps, 8.5:1 static compression, 1.83" intake valves, and a modern pcm. it's already very robust, and all you need are ARP head studs and cometic gaskets.

...and dont rattle it at all over 400hp if it has stock pistons. The Series II has been 9's on fwd cars

 

[Mr.Spool]

you also need the proper safety equipment,which can add up to quite the $$ and loss functionality.the real decision is do you want to spend the time and coin and have more of a matainence car that needs to be watched more carefully.

 

[Fryguy]

We're doing a similar combination for my brother's car. We have some nice Diamond pistons (.020 over), but are still shopping for the other internal engine parts. Where is the best place to buy the GN1 heads/intake? Are there any other brands out there still? The T/A stuff? Goal on this one is mid 10s in a turbo T.

Do the caps work better, or the girdle? Are either of them necessary at this performance level?

 

[84BuickGNYorkPA]

My friend just split his crank last weekend at the track @ 100mph or so, no knock just clean split between 5 & 6 journal, pictures and comments on facebook turbobuick section. Log In | Facebook Which is a good argument for a steel crank instead of the stock cast iron one.
My goal on my car was always 11.5, fast enough for the local street scene and slow enough not to wrench on it every weekend, plus don't want a cage with three boys at home. I went with diamond pistons, rjc girdle, stock crank and connecting rods(converted to floaters) 210/215 roller cam kit from full throttle, used champion iron heads, T&D 1:65 roller rockers, alky single nozzle, 60lb injectors, TT SD chip. Have not looked back but my goal is not as low as yours. My next mod for more performance will be a non locking converter from Dusty, but for now I'm well below my current goal of 11.50. Good luck with your build !!

As far as must haves, MAGNA member Dr. Paul, does it on all stock motor internals with bolt on mods. He lives right beside a track and can show you a fistfull of timeslips each yr. the key is no knock to keep your motor alive. He runs in the mid 10's with all the safety equipment up to snuff.

Chuck

 

[2QUICK2B6]

Had to do it guy !!

Must haves for Low 10 Sec motor? MONEY !!!

Sorry just being a smart AZZ.!!!

ive out driven an ou ran corvettes with alot of money blown .... my guess would be good heads atleast caps built trans and a rear end that can handle it with suspension ..... but me i can blow up a stock car or a fully built T/A stroker just with the wrong/bad tune

I ran mid 11's stock long block backyard trans just build not upgraded for abt 3 yrs zero ploblems ... got so boring i started changing songs on the cd player an messing with the radio

 

[we4Mateo]

ive out driven an ou ran corvettes with alot of money blown .... my guess would be good heads atleast caps built trans and a rear end that can handle it with suspension ..... but me i can blow up a stock car or a fully built T/A stroker just with the wrong/bad tune

I ran mid 11's stock long block backyard trans just build not upgraded for abt 3 yrs zero ploblems ... got so boring i started changing songs on the cd player an messing with the radio

Mid-11s are boring after a while, but you gotta stop somewhere. I have a budget build with all stock internals and run mid 11's easily. I'm hoping with good fall air here getting into the 11.40 area. I drive my car 10k miles per year and to and from the track every time though, and I want to keep it that way. My car was bone stock when I got it and runs with most modern muscle on the street now and didn't cost an arm and a leg.

I can't see why it wouldn't run high 10's though with just a little bigger turbo with the stock equipment. If you want a low 10 sec build though, everything I read states caps or girdle at least and why not a better crank at that point? But than you have gone past the point of gotta stop somewhere.

 

[Flyin Brian]

I broke the number 3 main cap on my stock motor last year running a 12 flat with no knock. I would consider steel mains very important for any performance turbo Buick build, at least the 2 middle ones. I went pretty far with my new motor but I needed a new everything anyway so I did the stroker. I like it so far.

 

[ebrunsturbo6]

It should be much less expensive to run a 3800 Series II or III . In stock form, the block is already capable of handling 9 second runs and the L32 v6 comes stock with forged rods. They also run smoother, come with a full roller setup, and the stock heads can be ported enough to outflow most fully ported stock and aftermarket heads for the 109 blocks. I've heard of intake flow #s in the 250 cfm range from some people. Why go through all the trouble trying to get the old stuff to go that fast when it's much easier to move forwards and upgrade to the newer stuff? Just my .02