My Buick is slow. Need to know why.

If you buy the fbody radiator, order it on advance.com and use a coupon code. I think mine cost 65 bucks and comes with a lifetime warranty. Do the same thing with the fbody fans, in another order, and you should come out around 200 for both with lifetime warranty. The coupon code is 40 dollars off 100 or more purchase. I live in Northwest alabama if you need any help.
 
Well, the radiator shop told me there was no hope for my poor radiator. He said if he rodded it out, it would leak bad since it was in such bad shape. I picked up a radiator for a 1989 IROC, and it dropped directly in, no mods to put it in the core support.

I have a shop account at the local O'reillys, and I'm friends with the guys that work there so I got one today for a few bucks more than what you quoted. My local advance stores SUCK.
 
It seems to run a bit better now...at least on the street. So idk if it likes the temps staying around 165-170, or if I got the cam sensor in a place it likes a little better. I did set it a bit more ccw than last time I believe. I found on vortexbuicks it said to turn it 1/8-1/4" more after the light comes on, so who knows.

I am just going to drive it and be happy for now, and stick a 10" from PTC in it this winter after I get the Malibu moving under its own power again.
 
If the original oil cooler is filled with metal, then replace it. But do not eliminate it completely, especially with a flat tappet cam. These motors came with flat tappet cams and oil coolers for a reason, removing it will invite problems. Remember this type of setup creates a lot of heat and the oil lubricates and acts as a heat exchanger with the oil cooler. The only way I would feel safe about removing it is IF I converted to a roller cam and lifters. Even then I would still do some testing before just simply removing it.
Flat tappet cams run just fine without oil coolers, I have several that have gone 30,000+ miles with ZDDP and regular oil changes. Had the crap beat out of them with alky. No failures. No problems, no invitations sent:)

These cars also came with 180 stats not 160 that majority of people run.

An oil cooler will not hurt, but it can live without one.

Lots of misinformation out on the internet.
 
I ran a turbocharged SBC for years with a flat tappet cam with a stock 5 quart pan and never had a problem. I can't imagine this Buick being much different in that aspect.
 
Flat tappet cams run just fine without oil coolers, I have several that have gone 30,000+ miles with ZDDP and regular oil changes. Had the crap beat out of them with alky. No failures. No problems, no invitations sent:)

These cars also came with 180 stats not 160 that majority of people run.

An oil cooler will not hurt, but it can live without one.

Lots of misinformation out on the internet.

Oil coolers keep the oil temps down. misinformation on the internet is true, I was merely speaking from recent experience with my car.
 
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Oil coolers keep the oil temps down. misinformation on the internet is true, I was merely speaking from recent experience with my car.
You are correct. All I was pointing out is these engines live just fine without oil coolers.

Flat tappet vs roller statement is incorrect. That is misinformation.

My cars run no cooler and fbody rads. No leaks at crimps, no issues cooling in Va heat/humidity. 25 psi I choose $78 fbody rad everytime.

I have built lots of these engines. Majority no cooler, because for years nobody had a correct replacement rad with coolers. When they became available most still choose fbody due to cost.

Bottom line these engines will live without.

And again that cam statement is false........
 
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You are correct. All I was pointing out is these engines live just fine without oil coolers.

Flat tappet vs roller statement is incorrect. That is misinformation.

My cars run no cooler and fbody rads. No leaks at crimps, no issues cooling in Va heat/humidity. 25 psi U choose $78 fbody rad everytime.

I have built lots of these engines. Majority no cooler, because for years nobody had a correct replacement rad with coolers. When they became available most still choose fbody due to cost.

Bottom line these engines will live without.

And again that cam statement is false........

Steve,
It's all good, I was of the opinion that with a roller cam setup it reduced friction thus reducing heat. I was always of the belief that these cars generate a lot of heat, more specifically in the oil, thus the reason for the oil cooler. If I am wrong, my apologies to the OP.
 
Steve,
It's all good, I was of the opinion that with a roller cam setup it reduced friction thus reducing heat. I was always of the belief that these cars generate a lot of heat, more specifically in the oil, thus the reason for the oil cooler. If I am wrong, my apologies to the OP.
Agree all good, no disrespect intended.:)
 
The source of the extra heat is the fact the oil runs through the scalding hot turbocharger.

I personally do not follow the writings here, or on any other forum, mindlessly. I look over everything I can find, then draw my on conclusions from that. If it works, great. If not, then the only person I cam blame is myself.
 
Little update. I was reading about fuel pressure and it was said some people run 50psi line off. So I jammed mine up to 50 to see what would happen, and I got rewarded with a harder pull in second. It feels about the same in high, but second seems stronger.
 
The source of the extra heat is the fact the oil runs through the scalding hot turbocharger.

I personally do not follow the writings here, or on any other forum, mindlessly. I look over everything I can find, then draw my on conclusions from that. If it works, great. If not, then the only person I cam blame is myself.

Flat tappets run about 20 degrees hotter oil than roller setups. Not that it makes much more difference, but you're not far off when you say flat tappets run hotter.
 
Little update. I was reading about fuel pressure and it was said some people run 50psi line off. So I jammed mine up to 50 to see what would happen, and I got rewarded with a harder pull in second. It feels about the same in high, but second seems stronger.

What did you wide band read on that pull? And what are you temps cruising now? And what are they at a red light after beating on the car.
 
What did you wide band read on that pull? And what are you temps cruising now? And what are they at a red light after beating on the car.
Wideband has already been removed. It was just temporary as it belongs in the Malibu. Temps are great now. 165-170 via the scanmaster while cruising, then gets up to around 180 flogging it, and drops back to 165-170 quickly.
 
And I don't much think the flat tappet cam is the reason for the oil cooler considering pretty much all pushrod engines of the 80s and older were flat tappet from the factory. If that were the reasoning my 86 Park Avenue would have one too.
 
Super excited to hear about your cooler temps. But all the cars with those cams in the 80's also had better oil. But now that you car's running a bit cooler, I'd change that oil and install a biggie oil adapter for the big oil filters. As for now, how does she pull?
 
Super excited to hear about your cooler temps. But all the cars with those cams in the 80's also had better oil. But now that you car's running a bit cooler, I'd change that oil and install a biggie oil adapter for the big oil filters. As for now, how does she pull?
I changed it first thing after buttoning up the front cover and firing it up for a few seconds...just to get any trash or antifreeze out that may have made its way in there while the cover was off. And I am using the 51036 Wix, so its a bit bigger than the stocker. But a big filter would be good. It feels pretty good now, and the only difference is the temps, and possibly the cam sensor is advanced a bit from where it was.
 
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