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My Deatschwerks double pumper

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I wound up just ordering a complete harness for a single pump. I will modify it as needed for the second pump.

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Now where did you get the idea to use a nylon nut/bolt deal? There are suppliers now that offer more wiring with the stock style set up. When I used the nylon nut/ bolt set up I couldn't find anything that would work. Cool set up by the way
 
Now where did you get the idea to use a nylon nut/bolt deal? There are suppliers now that offer more wiring with the stock style set up. When I used the nylon nut/ bolt set up I couldn't find anything that would work. Cool set up by the way


I got the nylon nut idea from you of course!! I was going to make my own wiring harness but it was cheaper to buy a new one and modify it to fit. I drilled out all of the Saginaw fittings as much as possible also. I don't think that the brass fittings will be a restriction. Thanks for the compliment. I like to make stuff myself. Trying to get to the track in November before thanksgiving. Got some c clip eliminators on the way too.

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Hows the twins working so far? I am going to swap my walbros out for DW's here as soon as the weather breaks.
 
109 block w/ eagle 3.4 stroke crank, K1 rods, diamond pistons, 218/218 .540 lift billet roller cam, ported GN1 al. heads, Borgwarner 6668 turbo, PTE front mount, TT SD chip, 80s, Alkycontrol single nozzle kit, home built 3 1/2 dp, th400 trans. I am stuck at 26 psi of boost right now. The fuel correction starts adding a bit at anything higher. I will post a picture in a few minutes.

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Are you running these two pumps to supply gasoline to your motor?
 
Yes. The second pump is on a hobbs switch.

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Hey guys, I'm in the process of a homemade DP. How are you guys wiring yours?
 
Hey guys, I'm in the process of a homemade DP. How are you guys wiring yours?

With a Hotwire from the back of the alternator...to a fuse on the back of the alternator....to a switch in the ashtray....then straight in the tank.
 
Ideally a double pump hotwire kit would be used. Then how you signal the second pump would be up to you.
Hobbs switch, throttle switch, aux output from a management system, etc.
 
I use a racetronix wiring kit with a minor modification. The DW pumps come with pigtails. Swap the bodies of the connectors, watch polarity! No need to change the terminals, just the plastic connector bodies.
 
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Yeah, I'm looking for more specific wiring details on a homemade set up. I'm doing a budget build and not wanting to buy anything, literally. I did have to buy a 3/8" Y fitting for the hanger but as far as wiring, I'll be making my own wiring harness. I'm definitely wanting to run a hobbs switch, as I wouldn't want to have to flip a switch everytime the car went into boost. I'm using a stock replacement pump for the primary and a Walbro for the secondary.

Here's what Im thinking of doing. Although the stock wring size isn't ideal, I'm not hugely concered since this is not for a high HP application. But, with that said, I'm going to install two hanger wiring bulkheads, so each pump has it own and can be swapped if the primary fails, to get you home. The seconday wiring will have the sending unit wiring removed more than likely. I plan to leave the primary's standard hotwire kit on it. For the secondary, I plan to pick up a pigtail for a low speed fan relay (that has #12 pigtails, as well as the pigtails for the hobbs switch to pull the contact in). Then just use a relay for the low speed fan, which are common at any parts store incase it goes bad. I'll run a #12 off a ring terminal attached to the positive side of the battery to a fuse holder, then up near the MAP sensor where I'll split off of it to feed the Hobbs switch, but also continuing all the way back to the relay, that I just described. Along with that #12, I'll run a #12 black. This will attach to the ground that is off the battery on the passenger inner fender. I'm going to basically just put a bolt through the metal inner fender with the threads inside the engine compartment, so I can attach the factory negative, as well as a negative to feed all the way back to the pumps as well as the relay. Then off the hobbs switch, I'll run a #16 red back to pull the relay in once the car is at whichever boost level I want (likely 14#). Off the relay, I'll need to find a female connector like one that is on a standard hotwire kit with the #12 red wire, and ground, that will attach to a factory hanger wiring tail.
 
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