My E85 Conversion Pics

sakudog

Active Member
Joined
Apr 14, 2012
They say a picture is worth a thousand words so I thought I'd post a few vs. post about the setup. It's obvious what I did and to anyone that has done a full E85 conversion it's obvious how well it runs, car feels MUCH faster and I can't wait to throw it on the dyno just to see what this little TE60 will do with E85. Motor is essentially stock and I am sure pretty tired with 99K on it but we'll see how long it holds together before I have to yank it and put on my GN1 heads, cam and intake and a new set of rotating parts etc. :)

E85 is cheap, ZERO detonation at 31psi but I turned it "down" to 28 to be safe!

** Update 1/7/16 **

Friends, I no longer own my Turbo Buick but I want to keep helping you guys where I can. I've shared the album of pictures on FB to Public here is the link: https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.435996643110115.92510.100000993492856&type=1&l=9d7e7d960a

E85 does introduce a few challenges:

Run a PCV it will collect water when it's cold out, don't freak out, empty it often
Change the Oil every 3K miles or 3 months, blow by of E85 is hard on the oil
If you don't have flex fuel, clean your injectors with an injector cleaner...after about 5k miles the injector tips will get nasty. A clogged injector was the cause of the death of my stock motor, in hindsight i would have run a bottle of injector cleaner every other E85 tank. Good luck and have fun.
 
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They say a picture is worth a thousand words so I thought I'd post a few vs. post about the setup. It's obvious what I did and to anyone that has done a full E85 conversion it's obvious how well it runs, car feels MUCH faster and I can't wait to throw it on the dyno just to see what this little TR60 will do with E85. Motor is essentially stock and I am sure pretty tired with 99K on it but we'll see how long it holds together before I have to yank it and put on my GN1 heads, cam and intake and a new set of rotating parts etc. :)

E85 is cheap, ZERO detonation at 31psi but I turned it "down" to 28 to be safe!


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HELL YEAH!
 
What pumps are those on your Racetronics Double Pumper with the Red tops and black sleeves??? are they the Aeromotive 340's??
 
Yes they are the upgraded Aeromovites, I hope to never touch the fuel pumps again!
 
Yes they are the upgraded Aeromovites, I hope to never touch the fuel pumps again!

You just might have too
In my case my built motor sucked a lot more E-85 than my wore out stocker did FYI
got even worse when I put a 67/65 turbo on it...hope those 80's are enough!
-Dan
 
So you think the double pumper twin 340L hours may not be enough fuel someday? I suppose anything is possible but I like my street cars to have 550-600 rwhp max so I can actually enjoy them...according to my calculations I think I'll be good.

Now the injectors may need to be upgraded when I put on heads/cam/intake larger turbo...yes! :)
 
What is your duty cycle at 28 psi? At 31 psi? Air fuel ratio at WOT? I'm so happy you switched over and like it. However you going back from 31 to 28...noooo! That's like leaving the club with an awesome looking chick only to tell your friends the next day she was on her cycle.
 
I'll post some logs when I have time to play with the car next week ( i hope)
 
So by u going with 80's dis u had to replace the ecu? Or can a switch of a chip be enought?
It depends on the 80's in question. Most the newer ones are high independence which would just require a chip. If they are low independence you need a modded ECM.
 
The pumps should be good. It's the 80# that are in question I think. I would have went bigger myself.
 
Thats a nice looking ride man. I've always loved the white TR's for some reason. And to top it off with the black wheels? Thats a real good look. I could imagince what its like to run that much boost. Scary.:D
 
Update, did #6 feed & return today with E85 compatiable 811 fuel line from BoostLogic and the unique 811 fittings, car still doesn't need the second pump with this turbo/cylinder-head/cam but fuel system wise, other than injectors, I don't know if I'll need to upgrade anything ever again... #550-600 rwhp is my street car target on E85.

When I swap motors in 2013 with the built one, I WILL remove those stock hardlines...ugly business right there boys.

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Here is a list of the parts I used:
Racetronix G7 Double Pumper w/standard hat (mistake on my side, should have ordered it with -6AN fittings)

Fuel Rail Adapters:
FEED:
Straight, Male -6 AN to 16mm x 1.5 Male Thread
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/FRA-491963/
RETURN:
Straight, Male -6 AN to 14mm x 1.5 Male Thread, Aluminum
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/FRA-491962/
OR
RETURN:
90 Elbow, 3/8" Male JIC x M14x1.5 Male Metric Adj.
http://www.hydraulicsdirect.com/stainless_jic_to_bspt_90_elbow_p/ss-9063.htm

Fuel Line:
34 feet ( I had an extra 4 feet when it was done)
811 FTFE Lined Stainless Steel Braided Racing Hose (E85 Compatible)
https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productselection.asp?Product=3480

Fuel Line fittings FEED:
811 Aluminum 6AN Hose End, 180 degree (RAIL)
811 Aluminum 6AN Hose End, Straight (to fuel filter)
811 Aluminum 6AN Hose End, Straight (from fuel filter)
811 Aluminum 6AN Hose End, Straight (to the barb fitting)
Fitting, Straight, 3/8 in. Barbed Hose End to -6 AN Male, Aluminum, Black Anodized, Each (to the 3/8" hose)
Fuel Injection Hose, Fluoroelastomer, Black,3/8 in. I.D., 1.500 ft. (DAYCO Fluoroelastomer same as Goodyear Fluoroelastomer but half the price)
Factory Fuel Hat or Double Pumper Fuel Hat /hose clamps for 3/8in

Fuel Line fittings RETURN:
811 Aluminum 6AN Hose End, Straight (for the return rail)
811 Aluminum 6AN Hose End, Straight (to the barb fitting)
Fitting, Male -6 AN , 5/16 in. Hose Barb, Aluminum, Black,
Fuel Injection Hose, Fluoroelastomer, Black, 5/16 in. I.D., 1.500 ft. (DAYCO Fluoroelastomer same as Goodyear Fluoroelastomer but half the price)
Factory Fuel Hat or Double Pumper Fuel Hat /hose clamps for 5/16 in

Fuel Filter:
Fuel Filter, Competition, -6 AN Male In/Out, 3.000 in. Long, 1.250 in. Diameter, Black Anodized, Each
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/RUS-650133/

Fuel Line Mounting:
Hose Mounting Clamps, Cushioned, Steel, Cadmium Plated, One 1.250 in. Diameter Hole, Set of 10
OR
ZIP TIES! :)


Making the fuel line is SUPER easy, you need a vice like the one I bought at Harbor Freight in the pictures, you need a thin cut off wheel for your grinder, electrical tape, some pliers and some good old elbow grease.

I ran the line, marked it, pulled it out, wrapped tape around the hose where I was going to cut, cut, slipped the fitting OVER the braided hose, put the center fitting in using a 17mm wrench, done. Nothing leaked and everything worked right the first time...I was amazed with myself! :)

This was the first full fuel system I've ever done and I've always wanted to do one. Now I know that I can do it and its easy to do. You have the information you need, now go do it! :)

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Dont feel bad..my stock lines are still laying there under the hood too...lots to unbolt to get those bad boys off...will wait till the snow flies!
 
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