I'm going to say option #2- cause you don't really need two -10s going to the fuel rails, -8s should be plenty and most of the fuel rails are like 1/2" in diameter. I'm just not certain how much a -10 could hurt, because after my pump I'm putting a check valve to maintain pressure and prime in the lines to the fuel rail.
My Fuel System Parts List
- Thread starter TurboTnZ06
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Squid4life
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- Jul 5, 2004
How about option 4: -10 from sump to pump, -8 to filters, -8 to front, split to (2) -8 fuel rail feeds. Some I have seen have a larger inlet line, smaller outlet on the pump.
that works for option 4.
also some pumps are -12, -10, -8 etc, however lets not get to wraped around that.
The reason i didn't list #4 is because i figured if you where to run -8 line to the rail there would be no need to run a -10 fitting of the hanger since the pickup tube is only 1/2 (-8) anyways.
no i can see if the pump inlet was a -10 then run a -10 off the hanger to the pump but if the pump was a -8 why not just run a -8 off the hanger
also some pumps are -12, -10, -8 etc, however lets not get to wraped around that.
The reason i didn't list #4 is because i figured if you where to run -8 line to the rail there would be no need to run a -10 fitting of the hanger since the pickup tube is only 1/2 (-8) anyways.
no i can see if the pump inlet was a -10 then run a -10 off the hanger to the pump but if the pump was a -8 why not just run a -8 off the hanger
So the main question would be -8 or -10 up to the front of the car?
If you where to Y the feed line to dual feed the rails(-8 fittings) wouldn't it be better to come off a -10 line instead of a -8??
And another question. If the pickup is a -8 (1/2) isn't that the restiction area? how are you going to feed a -10 line when the pickup is so small?
If you where to Y the feed line to dual feed the rails(-8 fittings) wouldn't it be better to come off a -10 line instead of a -8??
And another question. If the pickup is a -8 (1/2) isn't that the restiction area? how are you going to feed a -10 line when the pickup is so small?
turbofabricator
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- Mar 7, 2004
If you need more than a single -8AN feed from the pump to the rails, you are making SERIUOS, VERY SERIOUS HP that would be in the turbocharged big-block territory. At 60+psi of pressure a -8AN flows a TON of fuel. This is not like a carburated low pressure system, where a -10AN is the norm. The feed/supply from tank to pump inlet should be as big and as short as possible, due to the poor sucking qualities of an EFI pump. The pumps also need to be below the fuel level at 1+G launch. The pump(s) should, in theory, be behind the tank so gravity helps feed them on acceleration. If you are making enough power to need a -8/-10AN feed line you should also be running a fuel cell, too. (IMO) The stock tank, even with baffles, is real flat and wide requiring you to have at least ten gallons in the tank to keep the pick-up covered under launch. Ten gallons is an extra 60 lbs to drag down the track. At the 1000+hp range I would suggest using a small cell under hood and a very short fuel system. But there is more ways to skin a cat. (though WHY anyone would want to skin a cat, is beyond me.
)
)thanks for the info.
So you said, The feed/supply from tank to pump inlet should be as big and as short as possible but if the pickup tube (using stock tank, after market sender) is a -8an is it worth running a -10an line off the sender to the pump or just run a -8an to it?
So you said, The feed/supply from tank to pump inlet should be as big and as short as possible but if the pickup tube (using stock tank, after market sender) is a -8an is it worth running a -10an line off the sender to the pump or just run a -8an to it?
turbofabricator
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- Mar 7, 2004
Assuming (I know what ASSume means
) you are running a real 1/2" tube, a -8AN hose is still smaller.Here is a chart to help you decide what size you need.
-4AN is .220" I.D.
-6An is .340" I.D
-8AN is .440" I.D.
-10AN is .560" I.D.
-12AN is .690" I.D.
-16AN is .880" I.D.
TurboTnZ06
Go on red!
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- May 7, 2002
Got it all together this morning. I hit the large hot relay wire to the alternator power and it primed right up. I held it on and got 70 psi at the rail- I need to adjust the regulator down, no leaks anywhere. I can't fire it up, waiting on some more upgrades to other systems. But whew what a job that was. It would be easy to install if this was a kit. The Weldon 1100 is not noticably louder than a walbro 340 or reds xp pump, I doubt I'll hear it over the ATR dual 3's...
Squid4life
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- Jul 5, 2004
Congrats man, that is a hell of a job, and documented the whole way for the rest of the world to learn from. Nice work! Keep us updated!
TurboTnZ06
Go on red!
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- May 7, 2002
Yeah I have to put the part numbers together of what I actually used. I have maybe $1000 in fittings that I didn't use...
Squid4life
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- Jul 5, 2004
Yowza... Time for a garage sale? :biggrin:
TurboTnZ06
Go on red!
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- May 7, 2002
Fired right up!!!! I turned the regulator down to 43 psi line off, purrs like a kitten. At idle no surge in FP, it is rock steady, so the -6 return is perfectly sized. However, i don't have a checkvalve so restarts are a problem where it has to rebuild pressure from 0 again, but it starts right back up since its primed. I can't hear the pump over the open dump:biggrin:
On a side note, a mechanical autometer phantom oil pressure gauge reads much higher than the autometer phantom electric oil pressure gauge. Whew, 28 psi oil press at 850 rpm hot via mech, where my elec showed like 12 psi or less...Safe to say mechanical is needed to verify, now I can ditch it knowing the offset. 75 psi mech was about 50-55 psi elec.
Now I just need to get the rearend in and I'm ready for racing!
On a side note, a mechanical autometer phantom oil pressure gauge reads much higher than the autometer phantom electric oil pressure gauge. Whew, 28 psi oil press at 850 rpm hot via mech, where my elec showed like 12 psi or less...Safe to say mechanical is needed to verify, now I can ditch it knowing the offset. 75 psi mech was about 50-55 psi elec.
Now I just need to get the rearend in and I'm ready for racing!
TurboTnZ06
Go on red!
- Joined
- May 7, 2002
I grounded the pump to the factory hanger for the heatshield, which I didn't use because the factory muffler is long gone.
I connected the power and ground wires from the new sender to the factory male plug cut from the original sender. I already had the factory fuelpump power wire disconnected from the hot wire kit so it was easy to use the other two wires.
You can see the 45* extensions just poke out barely enough to get a wrench on them to attach the final lines.
I reused my Bosch 20/30A relay and a 10g audio amp power wire from the alternator post.
I connected the power and ground wires from the new sender to the factory male plug cut from the original sender. I already had the factory fuelpump power wire disconnected from the hot wire kit so it was easy to use the other two wires.
You can see the 45* extensions just poke out barely enough to get a wrench on them to attach the final lines.
I reused my Bosch 20/30A relay and a 10g audio amp power wire from the alternator post.
TurboTnZ06
Go on red!
- Joined
- May 7, 2002
Connected the downpipe back up to the dual ATR 3" SS exhaust, the pump is barely audible over that. The Red's XP intank pump in my GN is louder than the Weldon 1100, if you wanting to go trolling for races...
monte4ever
New Member
- Joined
- Apr 5, 2011
Which in tank pump are you going with?
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