My Fuel System Parts List
- Thread starter TurboTnZ06
- Start date
The_Six
Active Member
- Joined
- Feb 28, 2009
TurboTnZ06,
Did you leave the original lines on the car or remove them ? and did you feed the new hose from the front to back or back to front? Getting ready to try and run my new lines this weekend and just wondering if there is any thing I should look out for when I run them that they could get hung up on. And Im goiong to use a DW pump with a BAP wired in to it.
Thanks
Did you leave the original lines on the car or remove them ? and did you feed the new hose from the front to back or back to front? Getting ready to try and run my new lines this weekend and just wondering if there is any thing I should look out for when I run them that they could get hung up on. And Im goiong to use a DW pump with a BAP wired in to it.
Thanks
TurboTnZ06
Go on red!
- Joined
- May 7, 2002
Need to have the body off the frame to pull all the lines. I only managed to remove from the fuel filter to the front feed. The rest of the stock lines are still in place.
I fed new lines from the front so I wouldn't have any slack up front. Once I had it to the back, I cut it from the wheel well area on the driver side with a cutting wheel. There's a lot of effort keeping the lines clean after cutting them. Can stick a dowel rod in it or don't just all the way through and only use the wheel to cut the metal and then a knife to cut the actual hose.
There's plenty of room in the frame to run lines, unless you are running -10 or -12 rubber lines, the Aeroquip TFE are narrow in comparison to rubber lines.
I fed new lines from the front so I wouldn't have any slack up front. Once I had it to the back, I cut it from the wheel well area on the driver side with a cutting wheel. There's a lot of effort keeping the lines clean after cutting them. Can stick a dowel rod in it or don't just all the way through and only use the wheel to cut the metal and then a knife to cut the actual hose.
There's plenty of room in the frame to run lines, unless you are running -10 or -12 rubber lines, the Aeroquip TFE are narrow in comparison to rubber lines.
TurboTnZ06
Go on red!
- Joined
- May 7, 2002
You'll have to cut on the engine bay side then to get the right fit. I fitted the engine bay how I wanted, then fed the uncut 20' of hose down to the back. I taped the ends up really well. It was pretty easy to cut within the wheelwell with the rearend out of the car.
TurboTnZ06
Go on red!
- Joined
- May 7, 2002
15 ft should work out ok.
TurboTnZ06
Go on red!
- Joined
- May 7, 2002
I measured the leftover piece of -8 and it is exactly 5 ft. I didn't measure that I had 20 ft to start with exactly either, fwiw.
TurboTnZ06
Go on red!
- Joined
- May 7, 2002
I got the -8 and -6 20' Aeroquip TFE hose at Jegs.com, the rest of most everything else from summitracing.com, some fittings from Jegs. It's not cheap, but no fumes and it is easier to work with compared to rubber.
I still need to put together the final shopping list of part numbers for what I actually ended up using.
turbofabricator
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Mar 7, 2004
Most hydraulic shops have TFE hose in stock for tractors and stuff. They use JIC fittings. They are exactly the same thing. ALOT cheaper than going with AN. My local hydraulic shop has a HUGE selection of JIC fittings (read AN) and I can just walk in and rumage through their bins and get what I need. Lot of logging and boating stuff going on around these parts and they all use high pressure hydraulics. Spoiled I guess. One local hydraulic supply house even carries a full line of Earls if I choose to go with that "purdy" AN stuff. The are a Parker dealer. Check with your local hydraulic suppliers, you might be surprised at what they will do for you. A couple of the guys love hot rods and usually give me a good break on price.
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