My Fuel System Parts List

[TurboTnZ06]

Still waiting on some parts to arrive, but here it goes. Stock tank, -10 to Weldon 1100 with pre and post filters to -8 teflon feed line to the factory rail with a turbofabricator inspired dowty seal, to a -6 teflon return off the factory style regulator with the 14mm to -6 adapter part number posted by gnxtc2- thanks guys. Most of the fittings are here but waiting on the pump and some 90* fittings to run the lines up in the factory location around the timing cover. Hopefully I have it covered, we'll find out in a few weeks when the pump arrives (backordered).

If you follow the regulator adapters, I'm thinking it will fit barely, but convert 14mm to -6, then a short 90 degree fitting, then up 45 degrees to clear the alt bracket, then down 90 degrees netting a 45 degree result for the TFE straight line fitting to screw into, then down to a 90 degree by the frame rail and straight back to the -6 to -10 conversion at the tank. This may or may not work, we'll find out... I'm hoping the factory regulator isn't too small.

The feed to the factory rail technique is noted in this thread by turbofabricator: http://www.turbobuick.com/forums/general-turbo-buick-tech/213332-fuel-rail-thread-size-ground-bolt-size.html

// WELDON RACING PUMPS // 1100 HP Inline Fuel Pump -- Weldon Racing Pumps

I used teflon because of gas smell seepage concerns and longevity compared to rubber. The 1100 is not for E85 based on the Weldon website from what I can tell. You could save a bunch of money by creating your own sump or pickup, but I chose to go with new stuff like the RobbMc anodized pickup which even comes prewired and with a sender and -10 male attachments. You could also use non teflon line and regular generic hose ends to save a bunch of money too.

The other thing you'll need is a vise to hold the line to get the hose ends started. I used a big LED flashlight to check in the holes to make sure it wasn't tearing into the rubber. Lube and also I trimmed the edges at 45 degrees to make the hose end slide in better on the summit hose. The Aeroquip TFE hose requires the braid to be pulled back and a compression fitting slid over the teflon hose to provide the seal. I printed a copy of this off: http://www.classicperform.com/Instructions/PDF/Aeroquip.pdf

Be sure to wear clothes to throw away because you'll be losing blood unless you have a set of leather gloves. Also, the frayed hose ends will jump out and snag on your clothing such as shoestrings and anything freshly painted nearby.

Another hint, before ordering, search the part number on the manufacturer's website to make sure its compatible, ie, you can't mix 37 degree and 45 degree JIC/AN/SAE fittings together.

Here's the parts list:

RobbsMc -10/-10 ½ inch anodized GBody pickup $235
RobbMc Performance Products - GM 1/2" Sending Unit

Hartline Performance Order - Hartline
Weldon 1100 fuel pump -10/-10 in/out, 100 micron filter, 40 micron filter ~ $320 + 60 + 90 = about $500 I'm guessing

SummitRacing Order:


AER-FCC0620
-6 TFE hose s/s cover 20 ft $121.95 1

AER-FCC0820
-8 TFE hose s/s cover 20 ft $137.95 1

EAR-9892106ERL
FEMALE 10 MALE 6 REDUCER $16.99 1

EAR-991915ERL
-8 TO -10 UNION $8.95 1

EAR-9919EFJERL
-8 AN TO 16MM-1.5 ADAPTER $6.95 1

EAR-178110ERL
5/8 DOWTY SEAL - PKG. OF 2 $10.99 1

EAR-AT981510ERL
ANO-TUFF -10 MALE UNION $7.88 5

SUM-220090B
-10 STRAIGHT BLACK HOSE END $8.06 2

SUM-230006
S.S. HOSE-10 6FT $39.95 1

AER-FBM1104
-8 AN ST. HOSE END FOR TFE $9.25 3

AER-FBM1123
-8 AN 90° ELBOW JIC/AN $12.95 1

EAR-AT981508ERL
ANO-TUFF -8 MALE UNION $4.95 1

EAR-991954ERL
-6 TO 14MM X1.5 POWER STEERING $6.95 1

AER-FBM1122
-6 AN 90° ELBOW JIC/AN $18.25 1

EAR-AT924106ERL
-6 MALE TO FEMALE 45* SWIVEL $21.95 1

EAR-AT935106ERL
-6 female female 90* fitting $13.95 1

EAR-AT981506ERL
-6 TO -6 ANO-TUFF MALE UNION $4.88 2

AER-FBM1103
-6 AN ST. HOSE END FOR TFE $5.95 3

AER-FBM3482
SUPPORT CLAMP $9.99 1

AER-FBM3484
SUPPORT CLAMPS $3.75 1

SUM-900106
-6 AN WRENCH 11/16 HEX $9.95 1

SUM-900108
-8 AN WRENCH 7/8 HEX $10.25 1

SUM-900110
-10 AN WRENCH 1 HEX $10.75 1



Jegs Order
Part # Description Unit Price Qty Price
799-640060 SWIVEL COUPLER 45DEG #10 $22.99 2 - optional to conform to the stock tank clearance
799-614806 90DEG FEMALE TO MALE # 6 $21.99 1 - needed for intake clearance off the regulator after the conversion to -6
Total: $75



Delivery and Handling Charges $12.95 + 9.95

Hose and Fittings Total $676.20

Grand Total: $1,411.20

Feed fitting count: 15
Return fitting count: 13
Hose count: 3

Hope this helps anyone trying to figure out an upgrade if they've never done braided lines before (I haven't until now). I'll post pictures as I make progress in installation. Hopefully the 1100 will be a stealth install and won't be much louder than a 340.

I also cut up a used serpentine belt and zip tied it to my vise to not damage the lines.

You don't "need" AN wrenches, but they are used to not scratch the fittings because they are aluminum.

PS- I have the rearend and driveshaft out of the car, which should make installation easier.

 

[captflash]

subscribed

 

[Major Nutz]

Looks like you have a well thought out plan. That pickup is pretty trick. I can't wait to see the rest of the install. Do you have a mounting spot picked out for the pump?

Mike

 

[TurboTnZ06]

Yeah I think the pump and the filters will fit up high above the rearend area forward of the tank. I'll test fit when I get them and take pics.

 

[Squid4life]

Impressive! I like how well thought out it is, how detailed it is, and how you post part numbers and prices for the rest of us schmucks who may need the info in the future. I really like the pickup too!

 

[TurboTnZ06]

After researching the billet regulator I have, it is only about .184 inch dia, so that has to go. Here's the path I am going to take, -6 return with new regulator. Time to put my stock style billet regulator up for sale. Hopefully turbofabricator can still make these:

http://www.turbobuick.com/forums/general-turbo-buick-tech/240060-revised-regulator-fitting.html

 

[turbofabricator]

Yes, I can make them. I think that Jay Carter has something, too. Contact him and ask if they make one. If Jay can't set you up, let me know and I can make about 8 more. It'll take a few days, though. Kinda busy with work (60+hrs/wk), and other HUGE projects, but I can fit it in if needed)

 

[Squid4life]

So, that fitting goes in place of the regulator, then you run some -6 to an external regulator like the Aeromotive that has a 1:1 boost ref? (Like this: Aeromotive|13109 - A1000-6 Injected Bypass Regulator )

Nice...

 

[Warp6]

I need the part number to your bottle opener Cool!

 

[turbofabricator]

With the by-pass fitting you have the option of also using the -4 fitting at the front of the stock rail (pressure test port) and use that to go to a dual inlet regulator, in the event that the single -6AN line isn't big enough to bleed pressure with a HUGE pump.

Aftermarket fuel rails have a SMALLER I.D. than the factory rail does. (just something to consider, too.)

But, yes, the by-pass fitting is used when you need a bigger flow requirement than the stock style regualtors can. There are many sources for external regulators. Just make sure the regulator is EFI rated, and not a carb one.

 

[TurboTnZ06]

Thanks Ken, I'll call Jay to see what he is up to

 

[TurboTnZ06]

I need the part number to your bottle opener Cool!

She appears to be cast iron, however I don't see any part numbers stamped on her. But this should be it:

Amazon.com: Mermaid Bottle Opener Cast Iron Beer Soda Pop Top Remover: Kitchen & Dining

 

[TurboTnZ06]

Found a black one, and planning for the future (Y to feed both rails with two lines to go into this one regulator (2 port) to a single -6 return I think this will work with one in port blocked off for now with a plug:

$135 Aeromotive 13129 - Aeromotive Universal Bypass Regulators - Overview - SummitRacing.com

 

[Squid4life]

Yeah, I was looking at that one too, and like the dual feed, single return idea you are thinking about. This is going to be a great setup, and something to keep in mind if I ever complete this Stage build...

Keep us updated with pics and progress, this is a great build!

 

[TurboTnZ06]

Hopefully the regulator and remaining hose end parts arrive today and I can mount the new regulator over by the hydroboost this weekend. I'm thinking of using the two studs that hold the master on to mount a bracket to which I can attach the regulator, and then its a straight shot for the return line to go up into and then one 90* fitting and a short hose over the valve cover behind the alt to the rail for the return side. I may first try mounting the regulator in a near stock location if it will fit and I can use a valve cover bolt to further support it with a little bracket, certainly there is plenty of room with GN1's and no EGR. I'll post pics of progress...

 

[TurboTnZ06]

Today's lesson, double check the manufacturer's site for the regulator because it is AN o-ring straight fittings, of course I don't have those laying around...

 

[norbs]

It is very important not to have the return line spraying fuel near the fuel pump inlet. You should extend the return line out of the plastic sump area in the tank. This was suggested by Weldon to me. I used a compression coupling and some steel fuel line.

 

[Squid4life]

It is very important not to have the return line spraying fuel near the fuel pump inlet. You should extend the return line out of the plastic sump area in the tank. This was suggested by Weldon to me. I used a compression coupling and some steel fuel line.

Interesting, and makes sense. How long did you extend yours?

 

[norbs]

It just goes ouside the plastic sump about 1" but it was real tough to get the sender in. Here is a picture from another site of how the internals look., I think i bent the line above the sump then aimed it down outside the sump area.

http://www.robertpowersmotorsports.com/Tech_stuff1/86_Cutlass_Tank2-buckt.jpg

 

[Just a Six??]

It just goes ouside the plastic sump about 1" but it was real tough to get the sender in. Here is a picture from another site of how the internals look., I think i bent the line above the sump then aimed it down outside the sump area.

http://www.robertpowersmotorsports.com/Tech_stuff1/86_Cutlass_Tank2-buckt.jpg

Nice pic Norbs. I saved it for later when someone is curious about a gas tank setup.