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need input on my motor

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shocker998md

Member
Joined
Jan 8, 2009
Messages
271
alright guys ive got my motor on my stand and im not sure what to do now. My plan started as replacing the timing chain, valve springs, and motor mounts. Then i figured why not pull the motor out and everything will be easier to work on and i can clean everything.

The top end is taken off, and right now the heads are still on, cam is in, and the bottom end is untouched. The car has 92k on it, and is all stock inside, and im not sure where i should go with it now. I would hate to put it all back together and pop a head gasket, so i was thinking about pulling the heads, getting them ported and polished and a valve job done. Id like to keep the stock cam in it for right now, and then when my cam goes bad replace it later.

I plan on porting and polishing all of my stock stuff- Intake, dog house, throttle body, headers, intercooler. Can anybody give me some guidense before the hole motor gets rebuilt and may not need to be.

My Goals with this car is to run high 10's or 11 flat consistantly, drive it on the street with a/c and beable to do good on the track.

Also i have the stock turbo, stock trans and converter (tranny will be getting sent out on my next deployment to get worked, and i havent researched a converter that will work for what i have right now and still work for a little bit later on down the road.)
 
God you're a virgin. Do some more research on here so you have a better idea of what you need to do to get to the 10's. As far as the heads you can do them yourself if you look at the stickeys in the engine section.:biggrin: Yes, I did my heads so I do have a fairly good idea of what to do to them.:eek::biggrin:
 

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ive read the follow my port and polish from front to back a few times now. When i say id like to run 10s i mean in the long term. Not put my motor in and bang im right there because i know i need to do alot more untill im there.

Im just looking at what i should do to set my self up for sucess in the long term and not shoot myself in the foot right now.
 
11s here u come

I think u should do the cam as well that way when it goes back in the car u dont have to take it out right away u dont want the cam going flat or timing chain to break will be more costly do the few upgrades ur gonna do and u will be on your way to what u want with the execption of a good conv and a tranny rebuild good luck;)
 
I think u should do the cam as well that way when it goes back in the car u dont have to take it out right away u dont want the cam going flat or timing chain to break will be more costly do the few upgrades ur gonna do and u will be on your way to what u want with the execption of a good conv and a tranny rebuild good luck;)

I'm going to agree with you except learn some spelling and punctuation please. I'm a little older and most of have trouble reading posts that are run together or have bad spelling. I suck at it myself but I do try to make it readable.:biggrin:

Doing the heads and going with a roller cam will save lots of headache but will cost $$. But the alternative is a flat cam and trash in the oil. I'll be running a flat tappet but I have some additional things I'm going to do so it shuldn't give me a problem.
 
I would pull the heads, at the least do a valve job on them with gasket port match. Sure would be a good time to replace the rings and all the bearings, oil and water pump. Will need to hone the bores to take the glaze off for the new rings to seat.

Chuck
 
already have a oil cover set up from earl brown, new water pump is on the shelf.....Im just not sure where i want this to go. I mean yea the motor is out and why not replace stuff, but before i know it ill be having the block dipped and to a machine shop and all that jazz.:confused: Im trying to do all the reading i can, and dont want to do anything too fancy.
 
already have a oil cover set up from earl brown, new water pump is on the shelf.....Im just not sure where i want this to go. I mean yea the motor is out and why not replace stuff, but before i know it ill be having the block dipped and to a machine shop and all that jazz.:confused: Im trying to do all the reading i can, and dont want to do anything too fancy.

Think about it this way. Do it once and forget about it. If you plan to go to the 11's then build a car that will make it to the 10's and it will live. If you build it to go in the 12's and try to push it you'll just have a hand grenade waiting for you to pull the pin.:eek:
 
Don't pull the heads just yet. I would run a compression check...the pistons/rings and valves may well be fine at 90,000 miles. I would definitely install fresh crank bearings and a hydraulic roller cam. Fresh valve springs are a MUST DO also. I just sold a used Comp roller cam/lifters/roller rockers/pushrods as well as Champion iron heads to Jack Cotton so give him a call. He can fix you up and headed in the right direction. Install a 3" downpipe and free-flowing exhaust and you will be in the 11's no problem.

What condition is the posi in? It will have to be working fine to get there. All the power in the world won't help if you cannot get it to the ground.

Hot Air
 
i know what you mean by do it once and dont push a 12 second motor into the 11's. I have to check what i wrote in my book but when i compression checked the cylinders i want to say they were 150psi across the board.

Now whats weird is i started to do a cylinder leak down check and i could only get two cylinders to respond to the test. I put each cylinder at TDC when i hooked up the air and on cylinder two and four i got a 8% loss. Then on every other one it wouldnt work so I dont know if my gauge crapped out or what.

Im researching on cam selections right now, and im figuring im going to go with a 206/206 grind because it will see alot more street use then strip use, but the car will not be driven everyday and only seasonal.. But im thinking about doing it up nice so im looking at a roller set up. Then if i port and polish the heads and all the other parts, hook up my 3 inch down pipe and run it through the rjc crossflow it should flow great.

Ill just keep on doing research and before i buy ANYTHING, ill post up here and make sure that it is a wise decision.
 
Those heads look pretty good Charlie. Did you leave the hump in the exhaust guide or did you hog it out until it is flush with the roof the exhaust runner?
 
Those heads look pretty good Charlie. Did you leave the hump in the exhaust guide or did you hog it out until it is flush with the roof the exhaust runner?

Thanks DD. It is the intial hog out to get the most matereal out of the way. I haven't even started on the second head yet. Not enough time in the day.:mad: Keep an eye on the B4Black section to see what they look like when I'm done with them.:biggrin:
 
Thanks DD. It is the intial hog out to get the most matereal out of the way. I haven't even started on the second head yet. Not enough time in the day.:mad: Keep an eye on the B4Black section to see what they look like when I'm done with them.:biggrin:

I plan on doing another set myself. Bweavy has the Sg1 Jr. heads without the heat risers for the egr port. Maybe when I go back up north for Xmas i'll port them at my moms house (she has a good compressor:rolleyes:), plus Brian told me how to get the runners "squared" properly using a file to get the high spots out.
 
I see this will be turning into a $$$$ pit quick !!:p 10's??? get MORE $$$$
 
I plan on doing another set myself. Bweavy has the Sg1 Jr. heads without the heat risers for the egr port. Maybe when I go back up north for Xmas i'll port them at my moms house (she has a good compressor:rolleyes:), plus Brian told me how to get the runners "squared" properly using a file to get the high spots out.

Get an electric one with variable speed and be done with it. I prefer electric because it's so much more controlable. I use a router speed controler to change speed and it works so much better than an air die grinder.:biggrin:
 
Get an electric one with variable speed and be done with it. I prefer electric because it's so much more controlable. I use a router speed controler to change speed and it works so much better than an air die grinder.:biggrin:

Sooooo much quieter too.

A.j.
 
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