Need/want more power!

At 24 psi spraying alky, it should burn the tires most of the way through 2nd gear. If it doesn't, somethings wrong.

All this talk of convertors and bigger turbos etc., flirts with "now it's a race car not a street car".

I ran pretty much exactly what you have for 5 years and never hurt anything.

TA49, 60's , alky, STOCK convertor. It's about the tune, 11.8 @ 115 all day on drag radials.

I disagree , you don't need a built trans, convertor for your power level.
I may agree that he doesn't need a built tranny now but at 20 plus lbs of boost he will need one soon , just saying
 
I've been hangin' around here for 17 yrs and never hurt a trans yet. All of them stock.

Race car- sure.
 
My 34k mile stock trans started slipping right at 12 flat, 2-3 flair. That was after external engine mods at 32k miles.
Yup!you did well I have seen them go fast especially if they are hooking hard,even with higher line pressure and a cooler regardless of stall or lock up or non lock up.most wont even make it to low 12s.
 
If anyone tells you that you can put any decent amount of power through an unmolested d5 and 2004R,they're giving advice in a careless manner. I'm not saying that you can't do alot with the stock stuff,I'm saying it is careless to advise anyone to follow your lead. At a bare minimum,you need more pressure,less flexible accumulation,and a converter with more strength. The worst part about running a completely stock trans is the fact that it was assembled with a non hardened stator support. When you inspect a stock stator support,you will find the thickness of the splines to be half of what they were when new or you will find them completely stripped away. This one thing is what motivates me the most to push someone to have their stock trans removed and repaired,not to mention the stock pump rings.
 
Stock trans may last up till 350 hp on bfgoodrich street tires, anymore then that on drag radials and a hook its done.
 
My 34k mile stock trans started slipping right at 12 flat, 2-3 flair. That was after external engine mods at 32k miles.

Back in the day, it was discovered that when you started getting the car to launch good, the front of the trans filter would suck air around the seam; because of the fluid traveling to the back of the pan, causing a flair. Solution was to take some jb weld around the seems of the filter to prevent it from sucking air. Good thing to try before you start spending the big bucks.

As for more power, you have all the parts you need to get you into the 11's. Your pretty much at the reasonable limit of your stock block. As sacrilegious as is sounds if you want to go faster, it's going to get really pricey at the expense of mpg and street-ability. There are 8 sec ls1 race cars out there for under 15 grand, so you really need to figure out what your goal is, as has been mentioned.

Unfortunately, a better mouse trap has been out there for quite awhile and our great old motors cannot economically compete. If I were you and wanted to go faster, I'd sell what you got and find another car already purpose built for what you want to do. Way cheaper in the long run.

http://www.gnttype.org/techarea/recipes/Staged1.html Has always been a pretty good roadmap for what to do next, even though it is a little outdated.

So... I vote for powerlogger or some other form of tuning hardware to tune what you got and leave it at that. Sounds like you have a great driver.
 
He's not making 600 hp.
As far as the stator support goes,the splines will be as I've described. The debris created is undesirable. The stock stator support splines start to deteriorate at the first startup. You'll find them just as damaged on a 2004R behind a 150 HP 307 Olds V8 from the 80s.
 
A few "dead hooks", and the input shaft parts company w/ the drum....That's just before the support splines give up.
 
I always thought the weak point in a stock untouched brf was supposed to be the clutches. Once we started adding shift kits, higher pressure, more clutch plates etc. it moved the weak point elsewhere. Seemed like years ago we would see a new billet trans part coming out every so often because now something new was breaking. Eventually we had just about every part in the thing custom and heavy duty and the suckers were expensive. Bless the people that designed all those great parts but they had to make a buck for their effort. Became way cheaper to bite the bullet and go with a different transmission.

My thought has always been that I would just rather change the clutches when it starts slipping and leave the pressures alone and no shift kit. Clutches are cheap and if somethings going to give, that is what I want to and that is what I think was designed to. I do run the reds clutches but the rest is stock and seems to hold up in my slow car. Once your going fast fast... the brf was just never remotely designed for that... cheaper just to do something different.

Sorry to hijack OP. Just an interesting discussion.
 
I just have bought a stock 86 T and recently upgraded to 42.5 injectors , ta49 , duttneck and atr exhaust plus all the other bolt on stuff and I'm now trying to figure out the limits of boost . 15lbs and I'm OK but add any and getting knock . Its a Love / Hate relationship with our cars LOL but good luck to the OP
If u end up removing your t-body/plenum/intake for cleaning the pcv related oil issues maybe consider installing an rjc power plate upon reassembly.. I forget what u have for octane down there (93?) but u could add a bottle of Royal purple max boost to bump it up to 96, just a suggestion I know everyone has their own ways of doing things. Sorry for interrupting just happened to see this post..
 
A few "dead hooks", and the input shaft parts company w/ the drum....That's just before the support splines give up.

on a 11.50 car its only a matter of passes .. it is going to happen

but it doesn't take a $3500 200R4 either to stay alive ... I get fed up with transbuilders that just put people into the most expensive box they can build JUST BECAUSE ... and naturally they upsell a convertor JUST BECAUSE

$500 bucks in a 200 and it can take 11.50 for pretty much as long as you want ..

Funny story is I had a trans done ( Stage 3 STRIP model) by a 200 EXpert ( big name too ) .. was on a high 10 second car .. after a few seasons it let go .. started to slip and have shifting issues.. long story short after I opened the box .. I found the transbuilder put in updated clutches, shift kit, welded front input .. that's it.. rest of it was stone stock !

I warn all the guys that I do E85 conversions on their cars ... "ok If I turn it up with what you have.. the trans WILL puke"
I pretty much always hear the same answer " turn it up I was planning on a rebuild anyway" its like they don't believe that the trans really will fail.
 
I had mine built before it failed just to save the hassel
If u end up removing your t-body/plenum/intake for cleaning the pcv related oil issues maybe consider installing an rjc power plate upon reassembly.. I forget what u have for octane down there (93?) but u could add a bottle of Royal purple max boost to bump it up to 96, just a suggestion I know everyone has their own ways of doing things. Sorry for interrupting just happened to see this post..
I have installed a plate and the boost juice just made my plugs and o2 sensor look like shit , That being said I think my T is just made to run 14-15 lbs of boost LOL Thank you for the info tho . I hope your bike ride was fun . It was nice meeting you .
 
A Turbo Buick will occasionally leak a l'il oil when they make good power.

A stock 200R4 will probably break when you put good power to them.

Your check is in the mail.

2 of these statements are true. ;)
 
Funny story is I had a trans done ( Stage 3 STRIP model) by a 200 EXpert ( big name too ) .. was on a high 10 second car .. after a few seasons it let go .. started to slip and have shifting issues.. long story short after I opened the box .. I found the transbuilder put in updated clutches, shift kit, welded front input .. that's it.. rest of it was stone stock !

Yeah, alot of vendors have made some coin off us gullible regal owners.

Usually running around 11.50 your stock motor, rearend and everything else is ready to blow.

I always thought it was ironic when someone would run their best pass ever and then be shocked when it blows up the next run. When you get that combo maxed out and giving you everything it can give.... you've pulled the pin.
 
A Turbo Buick will occasionally leak a l'il oil when they make good power.

A stock 200R4 will probably break when you put good power to them.

Your check is in the mail.

Yeah when you see a turboregal not smoke a little or not leak a little, its probably out of oil.
 
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