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New engine build - coolant pouring

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it was recommended that we purchase these exact head gaskets by the builder, im just saying - we had el cheapos that we gave to him to install - he wanted these.

hmm I think you might have found your problem.......
 
what kind of power level are hoping for? A lot of people still run stock composite gaskets they take alot of abuse and seal well. RJC makes a steel shim that works very well and seals I have used both with good success. Alot of high horsepower guys like cometic MLS my understanding id the surfaces have to be very smooth for them to work and they are a little harder to seal for the inexperienced.
 
With a leak that bad, I'd pull the engine and put it on the stand.

Since the engine hasn't been fired, if there's water in the pan it won't be a milkshake. The water will be on the bottom. If your dipstick is showing more oil than you expect, drain the pan and see if water comes out first.

If it does, that will be all you need to know to drag out the engine crane.
 
f it does, that will be all you need to know to drag out the engine crane.

A little known fact: The inventor of the engine hoist, also invented the Buick V sicks.....

Seems he wasn't selling enough hoists.:bucktooth:
 
Then he should be responsible for fixing the issue.

Especially if he not only recommended them but also installed them.

El-cheapos as they have been put are good into the nines with no detonation. The graphite gaskets hold up well if they aren't detonated. It's better to blow a gasket than to cause damage to the rotating assembly which is more likely if you use cometics or RJC crazy glue gaskets.

You need to have the gaskets YOU want installed and if he recommended copper because that's all he'll warranty, well I guess he has a warranty issue to take care of.
 
Especially if he not only recommended them but also installed them.

El-cheapos as they have been put are good into the nines with no detonation. The graphite gaskets hold up well if they aren't detonated. It's better to blow a gasket than to cause damage to the rotating assembly which is more likely if you use cometics or RJC crazy glue gaskets.

You need to have the gaskets YOU want installed and if he recommended copper because that's all he'll warranty, well I guess he has a warranty issue to take care of.


"Crazy glue gaskets"
That made me chuckle.

The up side to the RJC is a slight bump in compression and if they blow you don't have to clean graphite out of you oil pick up.
 
"Crazy glue gaskets"
That made me chuckle.

The up side to the RJC is a slight bump in compression and if they blow you don't have to clean graphite out of you oil pick up.

I'd rather clean graphite out instead of buying new rods,pistons or crank. :D

I need a fuse and gaskets are cheap compared to a rebuild.
 
Well I've researched some good and some bad concerning the copper gaskets just like there's good and bad to almost anything. We ran the standard gaskets on this car for years and never ever did anything to it but change a few bent push rods out which was par for the flat tappet set up. Until this one day we/I creamed some thrust bearings and main bearings which started this whole rebuild and valve train change over to a roller. The coppers are on there now -

We've just removed the intake and located water below the gasket which could be where the water was coming from but I do t believe it to be the entire problem.

In addition, we've contacted the builder and he is extremely concerned and willing to help. He didn't install from the intake up to wiring vacuum lines and electrical lines - we did that. So we started there.

If the heads have to come off - the coppers will definitely be changed out. These TB don't need any additional drama added to their already uniqueness!
 
Well I've researched some good and some bad concerning the copper gaskets just like there's good and bad to almost anything. We ran the standard gaskets on this car for years and never ever did anything to it but change a few bent push rods out which was par for the flat tappet set up. Until this one day we/I creamed some thrust bearings and main bearings which started this whole rebuild and valve train change over to a roller. The coppers are on there now -

We've just removed the intake and located water below the gasket which could be where the water was coming from but I do t believe it to be the entire problem.

In addition, we've contacted the builder and he is extremely concerned and willing to help. He didn't install from the intake up to wiring vacuum lines and electrical lines - we did that. So we started there.

If the heads have to come off - the coppers will definitely be changed out. These TB don't need any additional drama added to their already uniqueness!


What makes you think it's more than the intake leaking??

I know copper head gaskets will weep if you don't do a re-torque every so often or if you lift the head but if the builder installed them correctly they shouldn't leak before you even get the motor running.

If it were me I would just pull it and have him check everything and put different gaskets on now [that's just me] because you will have seepage at the very least down the road especially if you run it hard. I do all my own work putting them together so it wouldn't be an issue for me.

The only guys I know that still run those gaskets are racers who go through the motor every year at a bare minimum.

If you don't mind keeping the coppers for now and know that they will be changed in the future why not figure out the intake leak and run it for now and go through it next winter when you park it but I doubt that the builder will do it for free unless you take it out now.
 
What makes you think it's more than the intake leaking??

I know copper head gaskets will weep if you don't do a re-torque every so often or if you lift the head but if the builder installed them correctly they shouldn't leak before you even get the motor running.

If it were me I would just pull it and have him check everything and put different gaskets on now [that's just me] because you will have seepage at the very least down the road especially if you run it hard. I do all my own work putting them together so it wouldn't be an issue for me.

The only guys I know that still run those gaskets are racers who go through the motor every year at a bare minimum.

If you don't mind keeping the coppers for now and know that they will be changed in the future why not figure out the intake leak and run it for now and go through it next winter when you park it but I doubt that the builder will do it for free unless you take it out now.
Because there is seepage under pressure at the bottom of the heads and the motor hasn't even ran yet.

I didn't pay him to have seepage so it will not have seepage when it's done.

When we put pressure to it this last time, we had released the drain plug on the oil pan ... When the pressure hit water just poured straight out the oil pan. The dampness on the bottom back of the manifold gasket just can't explain the amount of water pouring through the oil pan - my gut says there something else - then again who knows. If I had surety the coppers were legit - I would think more positively - all the negatives make perfect sense about them - and besides dude didn't use the copper spray with the gaskets.

So I've made up my mind pretty much - I want something better or my old faithful a back!
 
Put it in his lap and have the gaskets you gave him put on there.

See if he will refund your money on the copper gaskets also. That was money down the rabbit hole and he was the one who told you to buy them.

Have him check the heads also to see if the intake needs work so it will seal, unless you made a mistake installing it that you found when you took it off.

I hope this gets resolved in a timely manner for you also so you can enjoy the car soon.
 
Put it in his lap and have the gaskets you gave him put on there.

See if he will refund your money on the copper gaskets also. That was money down the rabbit hole and he was the one who told you to buy them.

Have him check the heads also to see if the intake needs work so it will seal, unless you made a mistake installing it that you found when you took it off.

I hope this gets resolved in a timely manner for you also so you can enjoy the car soon.
Yep!

That's the plan! Thanks man! I'll update ya!
 
Thanks I'll be waiting to see how it goes.

I hope he doesn't end up giving you the run around.

Hope it goes smooth and hope to hear from you soon.
 
Okay when he rebuilt your motor did he mag the heads?block? Surface the black /heads?I had a small crack in between the valves which sucked but at least I didn't install that head . I also just installed comitics and yes they are leaking coolant but I still have to Re torque them and prob throw in 2-3 GM coolant tabs . What where the heads torqued to ? This situation sounds just like what happens to my buddy as he got a killer deal on some heads and a bunch of stuff he didn't need with the guy installing it long story short he now has rod knock and again this was a supposed reputable engine builder .i would tell this great engine builder to get your shit right or get some cash back . hope u figure it out good luck
 
I know with my aluminum heads and cometic gaskets when I started my engine for the first time water water literally pouring out the down pipe. Shut it off. Retourqued head stud , changed oil heat cycled the motor. Then again retourqued head studs and changed oil just out of precaution. I believe it finally stopped and sealed up after the 2 heat cycles and retourque. I did read where many had to or used the gm coolant sealant tabs though. I honestly thought one of my heads may have been cracked but it stopped leaking and has been sealed up and hasn't leak since and that was 4-5 years ago. I'm not sure how this may or may not pertain to the copper head gaskets. Joel
 
if you end up taking the engine back out, save yourself some headache and do a pressure check on coolant system and prime engine outside of the car. Just an idea(y)
 
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