New Member In Florida.... Look For Any Help On What I Have.

Eric was quick to respond.

New
Here's the info I had for the order:
1000 TurboTweak Classic Chip v5.7 - Buick/TTA
[Car Type:86/87 Turbo Buick]
[Chip Type:Alcohol (must use alcohol injection)]
[Upgrading an old TurboTweak chip?:No]
[Injector Type (part# helpful):72lb siemens]
[Fuel Octane:93-94]
[Turbo:61mm]
[Intercooler:FMIC]
[Cylinder Heads:Stock]
[Camshaft:Stock]
[ECM reading correct MPH?:Yes, it's within +/- 10 MPH]
[If alky injection, what kit?:Alkycontrol]
[If alky, how many nozzles?:1]
[Intended max boost with this chip:20-25psi]
 
That is a nicely modified car. You should be happy with it for a long time. I wouldn't change anything, maybe add a trans cooler for extra insurance if you are inclined.
 
What Tranny cooler would you recommend and mounting location based on my current setup with the FMIC.

I did order a Hallman Boost Control to have the ability to add some boost if safe to do so as I'm tuned to 23-25 but only pushing 19-20 now. I'll add a little and recall the scanmaster to make sure I'm still in safe. I'll probably just go up to 23 if it's safe to do so.
 
Ok ....got Hallman Boost Controller installed tonight. Few questions before my test drive

1. Do I need to cap off the waste gate solenoid hose fitting ( electric component on valve cover) that the original hose was attached to ?

2. Is the lighter or heavier spring recommend ( current boost is 19-20) ....looking to reach 24-25 if safe on scanmaster. It has the heavier spring installed now.

2.If starting from the closed position, will the HBC add to my current boost of 19-20 lbs or will it start me from 0 lbs and each turn will add boost from there. If from zero, how may turns out ( +) should I use to get a base to start testing.

Thanks
 
No idea on that boost controller but leave the factory boost sol. Plugged in to the computer. It won't hurt to cap or cover the area where the vac line was so no dirt or dust gets in


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Ok.....got my Hallman Boost Controller installed and to it out for a few test runs to get my boost from 19-20 up to 24-25. I basically put it in (D)and slowly accelerated to about 65 the then rolled into WOT so it wouldn't kick down in gear. I accelerated up until my Boost settled at 25lbs and held it steady while I accelerated. Took a few adjustments but got it set at 25lbs and my numbers came in at 785 and 0.0 Retard. My Alky is set on number 6.
Wamq6vC.jpg


I got the other numbers of my scanmaster after my test drive so these numbers are at idle in park.

AF - 05
L8 - 35
BAT - 13.4
INT - 128
BL - 125
CLE -170 ( need a 160 thermostat ?)
AE5 - 116
RPM - 850
TPS - .42
IAC - 42-46 ( apparently high )
CC - 39

Which of these numbers / settings should I test while driving or under WOT ?

I did notice a little black smoke from my exhaust when the Boost kicked so had a concern I might be running a little rich but my numbers seems good. I know I can lean it out in small increments with my MAF Translator but with my 02 at 785 at WOT, it seemed right.

Thanks again for any help!!
 
That car at 25 psi with no knock should be moving pretty good. I would leave the scan master on the screen that you can see knock and O2 voltage and drive it. You probably already have a 160 T-stat and will probably run closer to 160 in winter. 170 this time of year is normal. You could adjust your IAC and TPS a little but if it's running good I'd just drive it. If you're gonna beat on it I would verify that it has a shift kit and a bigger billet servo in the trans. It probably already has these. I would also get a trans cooler if you haven't already.


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Black smoke is normal. The computer knows you're foot is in it so it throws a lot of fuel at it to make sure you don't lean out. You can adjust WOT fuel to lean it out a little if you want but be careful and make sure you have no knock. Any knock at 25 psi could take out a head gasket.


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I agree with ScottHeidinger 100% , At 25LBS of boost and MV at 785 with no knock your doing great , A trans cooler is something to think about . Sweet car Mac , Have fun cause at 25lbs your damn sho moving down the road LOL Keith
 
Trans cooler is my next upgrade. I saw this post and liked how it was mounted seeing I have a KB air-dam and my passenger vent is open.
LmbA0Zl.jpg


Turbo Keith recommend a cooler by David H here on the site but I am having a problem finding info on it. I PMd David for details but haven't got a response as of yet. Any recommendations on a cooler and mounting locations just to see the options?

Finally, while testing today I noticed once under full Boost and around a 100mph and up, the car started getting a pretty good left/right wiggle. What suspension mods are people doing to keep these cars more stable under Boost and higher speeds.

Once again thanks for the information...it's been really helpful !!!!!
 
Did a little more looking today . It looks like I have some sort of oil cooler and a tranny cooler.

Here is what appears to be the oil cooler setup using the radiator
Ua5LCgD.jpg

biDKpzN.jpg


Here are the lines I found to the tranny that appear to go to a cooler that's behind the FMIC.

xs4JJKN.jpg


90yJeYs.jpg

Last pic aint the best but the lines go inbetween the FMIC and the AC Condenser ( I think) to a cooler I'm hoping.

This all seem correct?
 
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Most transmission failures are caused by heat so almost any good quality cooler is way better than not having one. I bought the biggest one I could find that would fit where I mounted it. Some guys buy the ones with fans. I'm also have a deep trans pan and A trans temp gauge.

The 100 mph thing is called the G- body shuffle. The good news is that even though these are 30 years old there are a lot of complete after market kits that will solve all your suspension problems. The first thing you have to decide is if you want to set it up to drag race, auto cross or just handle a little better and minimize the shuffle. It gets expensive buying things more than once so I would think about your end goal and buy a complete kit to start with, your bushings in the rear arms and rear end are probably worn out and most of the parts back there were designed for 1/3 the horsepower we are putting to them so just replacing the bushings will not solve the problem. Those factory rear arms flex so they are replaced with upgraded tubular arms. There are larger rear sway bars. You can wrap up a lot of money in individual parts (like me) or be smart and buy everything together in a kit and save some money.


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I would do a search on that Kenny bell ram air canister. These came out when the ram air trans ams were on TV commercials eating everything on the street and made sense but today I think the cold air kits that put the air cleaner in front of the engine bay and don't restrict the air flow are a better setup. I had the Kenny bell set up on mine and it's now in my garage on a shelf. To me your air cleaner is breathing thru a snorkel with that canister. Ram air on a NA. Car makes sense but on a turbo car I'm not so sure. I don't want to aim you in the wrong direction that's why I say you might want to do the search.


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Thanks for the replies... no doubt most of today's cars you open air CAIs so what you are saying makes sense.
 
what do you think your goals are with the car? there's lots of info on how to properly set up your suspension here based on the application


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I'm just gonna use it as a weekend fun car although my get froggy and take it to the strip on rare occasions. Just want it decently stable at higher speeds under Boost. Now it's a amusement park ride!!! : )
 
Ok got under the car today and discovered a few things.

1. It has an oil cooler behind the FMIC...not sure that's the ideal place but that where she is
KGgVKMI.jpg


2. It has an aluminum drive shaft and hoop.

wcP6xTv.jpg


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jbdrB3m.jpg


3. It also has rear air bags and Bilstein Shocks. The 2 air valves that adjust the airbags are mounted on the rear fairing under the tag.

wwdaQ1W.jpg


MiYS4eS.jpg

ESyDnXa.jpg


6hyODKa.jpg

4. It has a stainless steel exhaust with a cut out.

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5. And a Line Lock no less

pQ0bFeb.jpg


The rear sway bar looks to be factory.

mUkXMye.jpg


So really getting the car decoded with everyone's help... it is much appreciated!!,
 
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That car gets better every time you post another pic. The exhaust is in my opinion the best that you can't buy anymore. The trans cooler is fine where it is. The air bags probably just need a little air to manage your G-body shuffle for now. Take a good look at the bags (they look good in pics) but they will weather over the years and need to be replaced. Somebody built that car right. It looks like they probably built it back in the mid 90's and kept it in a garage. Very nice car you have.


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