Newbie alert. Moonroof question.

[hensleyt]

Tom you have never ID your converter
Scooby used a old Art Carr I run a no name brand. I slip a little to much on top at 10% and your is around that too. Converter will help the car 60 foot.
Is this car a weekend cruiser?

 

[Tom Kelly]

Tom you have never ID your converter
Scooby used a old Art Carr I run a no name brand. I slip a little to much on top at 10% and your is around that too. Converter will help the car 60 foot.
Is this car a weekend cruiser?

Car is definitely a weekend cruiser. Frame off restoration with rebuilt motor. Everything is new except transmission. Drive it around 2,000 miles a year. If I race it twice a year it's a lot. With all the logging stuff I finally tuned it with no KR up to 23 psi which had been my goal. With rebuilt engine I changed he converter to a 2800 stall but I can't put my finger on any details. I think I struggled last weekend because I added gas too fast and walked the car into the light. Then launched without any boost at all. The other day as I said I took it to a quiet spot and stood on the brake and gradually built rpms and watched boost. It was comfortable at 2900 rpms and 5 psi boost. Just a little beyond that the tires spun. My question to the group was is that about normal for a 2800 converter?

When I passed on my run logs to Eric he replied that it all looks good and the times I ran (about 12.5 at around 108) were about right for my setup considering the soft 60 ft times. LIke many members he also pointed out the less than crisp shifts, especially 1-2. I chatted with a friend who knows a lot about transmissions and he advised that after 110,000 miles and working with a motor significantly stronger than stock, the transmission was approaching its useful life. Of course not one can predict when it will eventually give out but will probably happen at some point. Planning to keep this car a long time he said I might as well rebuild it and if I did I should go with a 200 4R pro. Dave Husek was highly recommended and fortunately he is not far from me. Dave is suggesting a more competitive converter but i am not so sure as I hardly ever actually race the car.

 

[SCOOBY DOO]

Tom, a better convertor will not only work better at the track, but it will perform better for daily driving. One of the locals used Huseks 3021 LU. He went 11.4 at 117 with a stock long block and alky with an old skool 60 series turbo and alky. Boost was 26 PSI with the high gear 02's coming in around 780. Think the launch was a 1.7. No idea what the low gear tune was, but he's fairly new so the low gear tune was prolly on defaults. For someone that hits the track now and again, and isn't looking to run a world record the Huseks LU is a good choice. From a racing stand point if I wanted to use a LU, then I'd go with a 9/11 or a Precision multidisc and have Eric lock the convertor for me in high gear via his chip.

Tom...the convertor is the most important piece of the puzzle...and most get it wrong. Talk to Husek about his convertor.

 

[Tom Kelly]

Tom, a better convertor will not only work better at the track, but it will perform better for daily driving. One of the locals used Huseks 3021 LU. He went 11.4 at 117 with a stock long block and alky with an old skool 60 series turbo and alky. Boost was 26 PSI with the high gear 02's coming in around 780. Think the launch was a 1.7. No idea what the low gear tune was, but he's fairly new so the low gear tune was prolly on defaults. For someone that hits the track now and again, and isn't looking to run a world record the Huseks LU is a good choice. From a racing stand point if I wanted to use a LU, then I'd go with a 9/11 or a Precision multidisc and have Eric lock the convertor for me in high gear via his chip.

Tom...the convertor is the most important piece of the puzzle...and most get it wrong. Talk to Husek about his convertor.

Useful advice. When I bring the transmission out to him I will bring the converter and have that conversation. I didn’t want to damage daily drivability just to race occasionally. Dave told me I wouldn’t have to make that sacrifice and my 60 foot times would thank me. Thanks for taking your time to help me learn.

Tom, a better convertor will not only work better at the track, but it will perform better for daily driving. One of the locals used Huseks 3021 LU. He went 11.4 at 117 with a stock long block and alky with an old skool 60 series turbo and alky. Boost was 26 PSI with the high gear 02's coming in around 780. Think the launch was a 1.7. No idea what the low gear tune was, but he's fairly new so the low gear tune was prolly on defaults. For someone that hits the track now and again, and isn't looking to run a world record the Huseks LU is a good choice. From a racing stand point if I wanted to use a LU, then I'd go with a 9/11 or a Precision multidisc and have Eric lock the convertor for me in high gear via his chip.

Tom...the convertor is the most important piece of the puzzle...and most get it wrong. Talk to Husek about his convertor.

Useful information well put together. thanks. When I bring my transmission out to Dave (hopefully next week) I will bring the existing converter and have that conversation. His comments to me over the phone were similar to yours and he even mentioned that his recommended converter would improve daily drivability and he mentioned having Eric upgrade my chip for 4th gear lockup. That one confused me because my existing converter is lockup. He said the chip change would make it 4th gear lockup only. I am not sure why that matters so much. I'm sure he will explain in person. Thanks again for all of you taking the time to help me learn. It seemed so much simpler with my 66 GS.

 

[Tom Kelly]

Useful advice. When I bring the transmission out to him I will bring the converter and have that conversation. I didn’t want to damage daily drivability just to race occasionally. Dave told me I wouldn’t have to make that sacrifice and my 60 foot times would thank me. Thanks for taking your time to help me learn.

Useful information well put together. thanks. When I bring my transmission out to Dave (hopefully next week) I will bring the existing converter and have that conversation. His comments to me over the phone were similar to yours and he even mentioned that his recommended converter would improve daily drivability and he mentioned having Eric upgrade my chip for 4th gear lockup. That one confused me because my existing converter is lockup. He said the chip change would make it 4th gear lockup only. I am not sure why that matters so much. I'm sure he will explain in person. Thanks again for all of you taking the time to help me learn. It seemed so much simpler with my 66 GS.

One final thought. The converter in the car now is a 2800 stall rated converter with lockup (which seems to occur around 47 mph). 90% of my 2,000 mile annual driving is below 45 mph. If I take it to the track three times in a single year its a lot. Given the tendency of higher stall rated converters to generate heat at slower speeds wouldn't I be wise to just stick with what I have and give up three or four tenth's at the track in exchange for long happy life of the tranny and converter? I am only rebuilding the tranny to insure long life for when I pass the car on to my son.Thoughts?

 

[No disintegrations]

What's the stall speed at zero boost, zero vacuum? Meaning wot before it builds boost.

 

[Tom Kelly]

What's the stall speed at zero boost, zero vacuum? Meaning wot before it builds boost.

I am not exactly sure what you mean. However when brake revving boost begin to show up around 2300-2400 and reaches 5 psi at 2800-2900 and the wheels start to turn beyond 2900.

 

[No disintegrations]

Well 5 psi is making a lot more torque and raising the stall. If you load it just enough before it builds boost you should get a lower number than 2800. Wot before boost is called zero vacuum. This is max power for a non boosted engine. Try it and get back to us. I'm not a convertor expert but the info may help.

 

[Tom Kelly]

Well 5 psi is making a lot more torque and raising the stall. If you load it just enough before it builds boost you should get a lower number than 2800. Wot before boost is called zero vacuum. This is max power for a non boosted engine. Try it and get back to us. I'm not a convertor expert but the info may help.

Not understanding the concept of WOT before boost. Must be dense of me! As I said, the "transition point" from vacuum to boost adding fuel slowly comes around 2300-2400

 

[No disintegrations]

Not understanding the concept of WOT before boost. Must be dense of me! As I said, the "transition point" from vacuum to boost adding fuel slowly comes around 2300-2400

Ok that was what I wanted. Your car must build boost easily. I shouldn't have thrown in wot. You got it. Zero vac is just before shit gets real.

 

[Tom Kelly]

Ok that was what I wanted. Your car must build boost easily. I shouldn't have thrown in wot. You got it. Zero vac is just before shit gets real.

My last log showed that launching at 7 psi it reached 24 (peak) psi at 11 mph. I have it dialed down from max turbo capacity

 

[salvageV6]

Get the converter along with the rebuilt tranny, then add the line lock, and get it up to 25psi. on pure alky. and you should be at 11.9 with a "nice" 1.8 60 ft. just like me at LVD.

I think you will be at 112-115 mph at that point, ok make that hope...

Ask Dave if you can lock his converter at about 75-85 mph in 3rd gear at the track that helps a lot.

Your new logs with the new parts will tell you when to lock it up for optimum results, I use the Bailey Extender Extreme chip and it's a programmable feature, not sure if it is with a TT chip...

Just my .02.

 

[Tom Kelly]

Get the converter along with the rebuilt tranny, then add the line lock, and get it up to 25psi. on pure alky. and you should be at 11.9 with a "nice" 1.8 60 ft. just like me at LVD.

I think you will be at 112-115 mph at that point, ok make that hope...

Ask Dave if you can lock his converter at about 75-85 mph in 3rd gear at the track that helps a lot.

Your new logs with the new parts will tell you when to lock it up for optimum results, I use the Bailey Extender Extreme chip and it's a programmable feature, not sure if it is with a TT chip...

Just my .02.

Actually I was asking if, give my limited driving per year (2,000 or so) and the fact that most of that driving is at less than 45 mph and due to the fact that I only very occasionally take it to the track, does it make sense to change converters. My understanding is that whenever a car is travelling slowly at below the static stall speed heat is generated. I know that at steady speeds in the upper 40's under low load, the converter will lock up. But I would be in non lockup much of the time cruising at around 2,000 in 3rd gear. In other words, is the only advantage of a different converter better 60 foot times? That is not as critical to me s it is to many of you who race much more seriously.

 

[hensleyt]

It sounds to me you’ll be all right with present converter. Your not wanting to say where the converter came from that OK,If it came from Summit or Jegs not your best choice. Stock D5 converter was probably as good. Dave will get you closer to a perfect fit. NL is not really for you and the trend is going back to locking. If you get the racing bug like I did you’ll wish you had done thing different. I took my lumps and move on.

 

[hensleyt]

To tell the truth locking converter build more heat unlocked than a NL at low speed unless it a 3500 stall NL.

 

[salvageV6]

I daily drive mine, small PTE51 turbo and have had the Vigilante 0 pump on the car for over 130,000 miles.

A decent lockup for regular driving is a plus in MHO but if the turbo spools okay with what you have then maybe you don't need one.

It's a good upgrade and easy to do labor wise since the tranny will be out for servicing.

I guess it depends on what you have in there now, if it's D5 based I'd try locking it in 3rd gear at the track.

And of course the money factor.

 

[Mr.Spool]

One final thought. The converter in the car now is a 2800 stall rated converter with lockup (which seems to occur around 47 mph). 90% of my 2,000 mile annual driving is below 45 mph. If I take it to the track three times in a single year its a lot. Given the tendency of higher stall rated converters to generate heat at slower speeds wouldn't I be wise to just stick with what I have and give up three or four tenth's at the track in exchange for long happy life of the tranny and converter? I am only rebuilding the tranny to insure long life for when I pass the car on to my son.Thoughts?

Read carefully,converter tech has evolved at a really fast rate,no with the proper stator,fin angle/blade drives fantastic and doesn't build heat the way most think.now on the lockup stuff talk to dave he can build you the newer stuff with the right cores and stator so you car works.there is no comprising with the newer stuff

 

[Pronto]

I'm thinking your launch technique is part of the issue. I had a Pat's 2800 converter and launched it at 12psi. You need to hold the rear brakes hard and I mean stand on them. . The s10 pads do the trick.

 

[Tom Kelly]

I'm thinking your launch technique is part of the issue. I had a Pat's 2800 converter and launched it at 12psi. You need to hold the rear brakes hard and I mean stand on them. . The s10 pads do the trick.

Encouraging words about new technology allowing the best of both worlds. I will take your advice and talk to Dave. I am not hiding the converter name. I truly don't know. I will find out soon. Question: Do the lockup instructions to the converter come from the chip or some other part of the ecm? I think it locks up in 3rd gear now at low load as long as I reach the target speed (around 48) but not in the 1/4 mile runs due I guess to the load.

 

[Tom Kelly]

I'm thinking your launch technique is part of the issue. I had a Pat's 2800 converter and launched it at 12psi. You need to hold the rear brakes hard and I mean stand on them. . The s10 pads do the trick.

To be honest. It’s one thing to bring the car up to boost in a quiet parking lot at my leisure and another to do it between staging and the go light. Much simpler with my GS.