Newbie alert. Moonroof question.

[Pronto]

Yes, turbo cars are totally different to launch. It's kind of all in one motion. You hold the brake hard when staged and when you see the first yellow you floor it and the boost comes up and let loose last yellow. That flashes the converter and you get the most stall and best 60'. The converter won't lock up at WOT unless you put a manual switch in that forces it to or you have a chip that allows you to force it to. I used to lock mine with the chip at 4500 in third gear. It was worth a few tenths. The AC also turns off at WOT.

 

[hensleyt]

TT 5.7 only locks at 47mph, at light throttle. My can ask Eric to add a lockup at WO. but unless you have a none converter that can be locked at WO you should not.
Do you have a auxiliary transmission cooler on this car? Or just the radiator cooler.

 

[Tom Kelly]

TT 5.7 only locks at 47mph, at light throttle. My can ask Eric to add a lockup at WO. but unless you have a none converter that can be locked at WO you should not.
Do you have a auxiliary transmission cooler on this car? Or just the radiator cooler.

Yes mine locks at 47 mph if light throttle. Not at all at WOT. Dave advised to forget about lockup in 1/4 mile for my use and application. I do have auxiliary cooler for transmission-installed with new converter. Dave suspects we will need even more of that.

 

[salvageV6]

12.05 with the converter unlocked.

3-6 passes a year to get an 11?, lock it up in 3rd just like the old days, put in a switch takes about an hour to install at the ALDL port.

If you can't lock his converter in 3rd gear for a few passes I'd look at another converter, and if your existing converter is D5 based keep it, since they've been known to be locked a few times in the past.

Excerpt from gnttype.org and note they are talking about locking it up AT THE LINE, I don't recommend that but in 3rd gear it might help you. The paper clip goes into the ALDL port where you would put your TCC lockup switch wiring into.

" Paper clip
A paper clip? Well, I know there is controversy on this subject, I can only speak from experience. Locking up the torque converter has always been worth a solid 2 tenths (YES, TWO TENTHS FROM A PAPER CLIP!) at the track. Some say breakage can occur, which comes from the fact that you are working the Torque Converter Clutch (TCC) on the shifts by locking it up at WOT. This can eventually burn out the clutches, but at the typical "Recipe Car" level, the stock converter will take this treatment for several hundred runs. "

 

[Mr.Spool]

It is clear that not too many on this thread understand how converter tech has evolved.non lock stuff with the right stator and fin angles will provide the launch boost and coupling need to have a good overall timeslip.with regards to the lockup stuff it has been figured out again with stators and fin angles to provide enough launch torque and coupling to have a complete timeslip without a manual forced lock up.

 

[Mr.Spool]

If you can't lock his converter in 3rd gear for a few passes I'd look at another converter

I dont think you really understand the fact that Dave's converter will outrun a vig any day of the week and doesn't need to be forced to lockup.its a put in drive situation vs trying to find the sweet spot/rpm in 3rd everytime you want the car to run good.forced lock ups are very dated and if you apply some really good power they take the clutch out if your lucky.take a close look at the really fast buick cars and notice how ptc dominates the field,its not just the coupling in 3rd but in the other gears as well,there is a very specific reason for that.some of which I touched on.fyi i dont sell build converters,so my opinion is not from a selling point,but I race alot,and have raced alot of different combos,and have seen alot of things.forced lockup is a thing of the past for the most part and for good reason.

 

[Mr.Spool]

Yes mine locks at 47 mph if light throttle. Not at all at WOT. Dave advised to forget about lockup in 1/4 mile for my use and application. I do have auxiliary cooler for transmission-installed with new converter. Dave suspects we will need even more of that.

Listen to dave.

 

[salvageV6]

I always thought a 31 year old car was very dated.

I''ve never seen his slip numbers on his lockup converter posted here.

We are talking about getting a car into the high 11's on pump and alky. that's mid 90's technology, not sure how much high tech. you need.

Data and info. on the current 2800 stall converter in the car and what would be going into it would be helpful.

Lock the red or orange stripe D5 up in 3rd assuming that's what it is and get the timeslip, I'll let you all know when the Vigilante clutch is done in mine....

Tom did you weigh the car at the track?

 

[Mr.Spool]

Lock the red or orange stripe D5 up in 3rd assuming that's what it is

These are the worst converters of all time.ive run many back in the day,and the fin angles suck,and the clutch breaks down quickly when you are racing it,and yes in the 11 sec range.

 

[Mr.Spool]

I''ve never seen his slip numbers on his lockup converter posted here.

They are out there,from the 3021,3521,and other converters I have driven,at a really reasonable price,alot lower than a vig.they run good

 

[salvageV6]

Take it up with the author over at gnttype.org.

Have Dave put in a transbreak, cool technology that will also guarantee the 11 second timeslip and a stellar 60ft.

I agree about them not being very good converters but I don't think they touched the clutch...

 

[Nigel]

This thread is all over the place, so my advice to the OP is to keep it simple and one step at a time. It sounds like everything is up to snuff mechanically, fuel system, alky, .... except for the transmission.
This car sees the track a couple of times a year. It is mainly a street cruiser.
Don't get hung up on a stall number, it does not mean anything by it self.
Dave Husek can build your trans and provide a good converter. His lock up 3021 will work very well in your car for what it appears you want.

If it was me I would change only the trans/converter, run 100% alky, and try again. I think I read that you are already running M/T drag radials.

With the 49 turbo and the 3021 you will not have to torture it of the line, if you do you will blow the tires away. You can cut 2 tenths of the 60 by soft peddling from what you have now. Work a little harder you can cut 3 to 4 tenths of the 60, mainly seat time and a little more tuning if required. A little more boost you will have an easy mid to high 11 time slip. Given that everything else is solid, you can stop there and drive thing for years reliably, the upgrade bug does not seem to give up though.

By the way, I ran Dave's 3021 lock up with a TE44 for a number of years. Very fun street/strip setup. Car ran solid 11.5s. Stock short block, 206 roller, alky, 255/60-15 M/T ET streets.

 

[Tom Kelly]

It is clear that not too many on this thread understand how converter tech has evolved.non lock stuff with the right stator and fin angles will provide the launch boost and coupling need to have a good overall timeslip.with regards to the lockup stuff it has been figured out again with stators and fin angles to provide enough launch torque and coupling to have a complete timeslip without a manual forced lock up.

Mr. Spool. We’re you listening in on my conversation with Dave Husek today? He said exactly the same thing.

This thread is all over the place, so my advice to the OP is to keep it simple and one step at a time. It sounds like everything is up to snuff mechanically, fuel system, alky, .... except for the transmission.
This car sees the track a couple of times a year. It is mainly a street cruiser.
Don't get hung up on a stall number, it does not mean anything by it self.
Dave Husek can build your trans and provide a good converter. His lock up 3021 will work very well in your car for what it appears you want.

If it was me I would change only the trans/converter, run 100% alky, and try again. I think I read that you are already running M/T drag radials.

With the 49 turbo and the 3021 you will not have to torture it of the line, if you do you will blow the tires away. You can cut 2 tenths of the 60 by soft peddling from what you have now. Work a little harder you can cut 3 to 4 tenths of the 60, mainly seat time and a little more tuning if required. A little more boost you will have an easy mid to high 11 time slip. Given that everything else is solid, you can stop there and drive thing for years reliably, the upgrade bug does not seem to give up though.

By the way, I ran Dave's 3021 lock up with a TE44 for a number of years. Very fun street/strip setup. Car ran solid 11.5s. Stock short block, 206 roller, alky, 255/60-15 M/T ET streets.

That’s the plan. Tighten up that 110,000 mile trans. Apply the right converter and try again.

 

[Pronto]

Good advice there.

 

[Tom Kelly]

Well we're getting close. Just picked up my "Standard Plus" rebuild from Dave Husek and his 245mm 3021 LU converter and dropped it off at my shop. He observed that the transmission was well worn but not abused. My conversations with him show him to be passionate about his work. Always gratifying. He suggested I have Eric re-flash the chip to provide for only O/D lockup. He also suggested from listening to me (but not seeing the log file) that I might be too rich in 1st gear. My fuel setting was 134 in 1st gear and 131 in 2-3. I sent the log file to Eric for his opinion. Here it is again if any of you detectives want to have a look at that. Anxious for the next opportunity to fun the 1/4 mile now.

 

[Tom Kelly]

Here is an update. Picked up my GN today with new tranny and converter. My shop had already done a lot of Dave's "breaking in" procedures so he only asked that I drive it only locally for the first 30-50 miles to engage multiple shifts. Amazing how it has such good street manners and yet flashes so quickly when throttle is applied. Per Dave I did a couple of accelerations from stop up to third gear. Gotta get used to the crisp shifts and quick flashes. I love it. Drained out my 50/50 alcohol/water and replaced with pure alcohol. Gotta work the tranny up to 10 psi boosts and moderate acceleration up through 3rd. Then she's ready. Will probably not get back to the track until Fall as it's a long drive and usually they are so busy. Fall weather is cooler anyway. However, there is no doubt it will be faster at the launch and with these crisp shifts faster at the big end too. Total cost with labor to remove and reinstall was $5,000. In line with other vendors but I feel I got the best with this one. Ordered a new chip from Eric allowing lockup in 4th gear only.Thanks to all for your contributions. Dave explained that 1. Lockup in 3rd gear is unnecessary and 2. Although unlikely, a shift from 3rd in lockup to OD will do damage. So what the heck, Having a new chip done.

 

[hensleyt]

I see you said drain 50/50 mix add pure alcohol.
It is a Alky kit but you need to put M1 Methanal.
I only say this because I got a parts car outback that has some sort of alcohol in it. Anyway it dos not smells like VP M 1 Methanal. I’m just saying this because it says Alky on the lid and some have ran down to Home Depo

 

[Chuck Leeper]

it says Alky on the lid and some have ran down to Home Depo

Yep. No methanol @ HD, that I've ever seen. Same @ Lowes.
Last 5 gal VP M1 I bought, was $35+. Probably too much.

 

[V6sleeper]

Yep. No methanol @ HD, that I've ever seen. Same @ Lowes.
Last 5 gal VP M1 I bought, was $35+. Probably too much.

Thats a good price, on the Island its $53 for 5/gal

 

[hensleyt]

Hawaii 60 and temp is 85 year round