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No Fuel through injectors?

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jessecool

Member
Joined
Dec 15, 2008
Messages
157
I just installed a freshly overhauled motor with just about everything new. When i try to start (its not firing). Checked spark (Good),Checked fuel pressure (Good)....but when i pulled a plug, Its brand new and dry..So i sprayed some carb cleaner in the vac. block and it cranked right up. Could this be froze up injectors, or maybe a computer problem?



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Check all connections at the injector harness and cam sensor and at the crank sensor. Sounds like something simple. Good luck.
 
Read this:

NO-START TEST
Below is a series of tests to troubleshoot a 'no-start' condition. (I basically reprinted this from a GM troubleshooting flowchart, hopefully it will be of some help!)

Below are links to repair manual pictures to reference from:

ECM Plug
Sensor Plugs

You'll need to get at the ECM and the cam & crank sensors to do some voltage tests. If you have a NEEDLE type voltmeter, it may work better for these tests, as it will visibly "swing" when the sensor switches open & close (IF they're working okay!)

Here goes:

First, test your meter and ground! (see ECM Plug) Check connection A-6, "ign, ECM fuse" for 12 volts. (for ALL tests, BE SURE the negative lead of the voltmeter is connected to a GOOD GROUND!)

#1- (see ECM Plug) With the key off, disconnect the ECM A-B connector. With the positive lead of the voltmeter, probe the B-5 connection (highlighted yellow, this is the crank sensor signal) Crank the engine and watch the meter...you should have varying voltage from 1 to 7 volts.
If NOT okay, proceed to #2.
If you ARE seeing correct voltage, your cam & crank sensors are okay, and your coil and/or ignition module may be the problem! You need to loosen the coilpack, and check the BLUE wire for 12 volts, key on. If it DOES have 12 volts, then the problem is likely the ignition module.

#2- now probe the A-11 connection... (highlighted green, this is the cam sensor signal). Crank the engine...you should have varying voltage from 1 to 9 volts.
If it IS okay, THE CAM SENSOR IS FINE, AND YOU ONLY NEED TO TEST THE CRANK SENSOR IN ALL FURTHER TESTS!
If it's NOT okay, there's no cam sensor signal!

Plug the ECM connector back in, and head for the sensors!

#3 (see "Sensor Plug") Unplug the cam sensor plug. Turn the key "ON" ...On the MODULE SIDE of the plug, probe the "A" wire for voltage, after which probe the "B" wire for voltage. You should have between 5 and 11 volts on BOTH wires.
If you ARE seeing correct voltage, THEN: with the negative lead of the voltmeter, probe the "C" wire, and with the positive lead probe the "A" wire. You should have between 5 and 11 volts. Note the results, then REPEAT THIS TEST WITH THE CRANK SENSOR PLUG!

If ANY of the sensor plug tests FAILED, you have a probably ignition module problem...
If ALL the sensor plug tests PASSED, then PLUG IN the sensor plugs, and proceed:

#4. Test the cam sensor: Probe the "B" wire of the cam sensor, then crank the engine and watch the meter. You SHOULD have varying voltage between 1/2 and 9 volts. REPEAT THIS TEST WITH THE CRANK SENSOR!

If either sensor fails this test, then it's possible that sensor is bad! If they PASS this test, it's likely the ignition module, or the connections TO the ignition module are bad)

Hope this makes sense!
 
Jessecool don't mean to get off topic on ur thread I just noticed in ur engine pic (very clean) that the flanges on ur uppipe are black what did u use to paint them black if u don't mind me asking ?
 
thanks for this info guys...as soon as i get some extra time this weekend..i will check some voltages with my voltmeter.
 
check fuel pressure at the rail, or disconnect fuel line from filter at front of motor, prime the pump and check if there is fuel flow. my pump has to be primed for a long time to get enough initial suction to remove the air from the fuel lines
 
Go to local auto supply (AutoZone, NAPA, Advance) and ask for a noid light. Disconnect wire from one of the fuel injectors and crank the engine over. If the light flashes, the PCM is trying to fire the injector and the wiring to the injector is working fine.
Conrad
 
Engine replaced... How long did the injs sit b4 they were installed in the new engine??.[Assuming they aren't new, and have had gas in them.]
 
Well..i checked all the voltages with a meter and all is good...One thing i forgot to add is that the car was originally a carbed car and converted to fuel injection. I changed the engine harness for the engine but not the one behind the dash..does the harness behind the dash function anything important, or is it just for signals,relays...ect.? I noticed that on the fuse box there is an empty slot for ( FP/INJ )...could this be it? Or do i have to find a turbo dash harness?






Uploaded with ImageShack.usNote missing fuse for fuel pump and injectors
 
Do yourself a favor as I did, buy yourself a smartglow fuse kit(the kind that glow when blown) helps later in life if ever one blows. Take care
 
Did the noid light confirm power at the fuel injectors?
Conrad
 
Got the noid light and confirmed no power to the injectors, so i studied the wiring schematic from the ecm. I have my fuel pump hotwired so i am not using the factory relay setup for it and that actually powers the injectors as well. So i ran a switched lead from the ignition to the pink/black wire just before the injectors and PRESTO. Running car...Kinda weird that they were lacking power.
 
Jack Cotton passed the "noid" trick on to me some time ago. It really helps us figure where the problem is.
Conrad
 
That is one sharp looking engine that you have!
Conrad
 
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