Oil drain leaks from turbo

[GNRick]

I posted this problem recently and received some good tips. So I went to remove the two 13mm screws and found they were both lose! I cleaned off the surface and am ready to reinstall it. Two questions-
(1) Does the dealer still carry the gaskets? I emailed Racin Jason but got no reply. The gaskets are on his website

(2) What can I put on the screws so they won't come lose? There are two different types of Loctite, correct? A red and a blue? Should I use the blue so I can remove it if necessary in the future?

It looks like it would be real tricky to just use hi temp gasket maker from a tube (instead of the factory gasket) unless I removed the oil drain from the engine block to get better access, so I would like to try to use the factory gasket if possible. Thanks.

 

[1chance]

Its not hard to put gasket in while pipe is on engine, take a flat screw driver put it in between pipe, and turbo then twist enough to slide gasket in from the rear, dont got crazy with the sealer, just a thin layer. I wont put lock tight on those bolts because the heat from turbo will make it to hard to remove, just put on some thin lock washers, or really tighten them good.

 

[turbojd]

When installing the drainback gasket just make sure the mating surfaces are clean, use some solvent and clean both sides. Yes GM still sells those gaskets, and if you don't buy a GM gasket make sure the gasket you buy is the thick one, I've seen the thin ones leak. They are cheap from GM, I paid like $1.90 for each one when I bought them last year. Some GM dealers will only sell them in 10's. GM part # I have here is #25537227

 

[Rick156]

I'm kind of stuck here. I've got a leak at my oil drain tube, I have a new gasket. I can't seem to get the drain tube off. I got the rear bolt out, closest to the firewall. I can't seem to get anything on the other bolt to get it loose. What am I doing wrong?

Do I need to pull the turbo loose to gain access? I was trying to avoid that. I'm not much of a mechanic.

Thanks
Rick

 

[dank GN]

If you guys have a stock oil return line they are notorious for cracking and leaking . Just make sure it not coming from a pin hole crack

 

[Chuck Leeper]

Studs in place of bolts, Self locking nuts. I buy them at my local NAPA store.

 

[GNRick]

Use a socket wrench that bends at the neck.

 

[Nick Micale]

I posted this problem recently and received some good tips. So I went to remove the two 13mm screws and found they were both lose! I cleaned off the surface and am ready to reinstall it. Two questions-
(1) Does the dealer still carry the gaskets? I emailed Racin Jason but got no reply. The gaskets are on his website

(2) What can I put on the screws so they won't come lose? .

Let me know your address, and will send you a thick turbo drain gasket which I get from Limit Engineering.

If you use a 8mm bolt with a 10mm hex, it will easy to get a ratchet wrench in that tight area. I can send a couple of these bolts if you do not have any extras.

Most leaks at the drain I have found is the flange being bent from over tightened bolts.

 

[GNRick]

Let me know your address, and will send you a thick turbo drain gasket which I get from Limit Engineering.

If you use a 8mm bolt with a 10mm hex, it will easy to get a ratchet wrench in that tight area. I can send a couple of these bolts if you do not have any extras.

Most leaks at the drain I have found is the flange being bent from over tightened bolts.

Nick that post was from 2008! But I wouldn't mind having the thick gasket on hand. I'll PM you my address. Thanks! Oh btw my fuel pump is spinning the correct direction now and I have good fuel pressure.

 

[bison]

To prevent leakage and seepage I use gasket elimantor. File the surfaces flat, wipe off with lacquer thinner, add a bead of gasket eliminator around the flange, and bolt up to turbo. I've been doing them like this for years and they don't leak


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[texasmr2]

Just a thought but no one has mentioned torque. I have removed and installed both oil and oil/water cooled turbochargers and learned the hard way.

Good luck.

 

[earlbrown]

An oversize washer with a flat spot on the OD can help to. (or bend it convex and don't overtighten it again)

What I do is bend the flange convex a little, it's amazing how easy it bends.. then smear a thing coat of RTV on the flange, the turbo flange and both sides of the gasket. On the gasket I use the divider in a 30 pack of Miller Lite cut to shape. A spend round makes a good hole puncher for the bolt holes).

Then after it 'skins over' I put the bolts in and just barely bottom then out. Just enough for the parts to touch, get to hang out, ask 'how's you mom and them?' and become friends. After that I snug them down to squish the RTV in place, then normally leave it that way overnight.

The next day, lock it down and I've 100% success with that method. Yes, it's multi-step and overkill, but that job is so freakin' tedious (and obnoxious when it fails) I spend the extra time and effort to be done with it.

 

[dynoman]

Studs in place of bolts, Self locking nuts. I buy them at my local NAPA store.

Studs for me also , that way you can put the gasket on the turbo side and not slide it back & forth trying to line up the bolts with the holes .