Opinions on theG-Body drilled rotors please.

[SS/GNX]

Ohh, and the cheese grater thing.... if they were done properly the holes will be tapered which will pretty much kill that all together.

If you drill your rotors yourself in your garage like shade tree mechanic, then YES a cheese grater is what you will have.

Ok. Now Im done. I promise.

 

[turbov6joe]

I know there will be those that are for and against the drilled/slotted rotors, but as you said, why would all the high $$$ cars use them if they suck so bad?

 

[Tony_SS]

I know there will be those that are for and against the drilled/slotted rotors, but as you said, why would all the high $$$ cars use them if they suck so bad?

To appeal to buyers.

Of course the quality of factory drilled rotors are far superior than 90% of aftermarket ones.

Even Baer and Wilwood are honest and say that drilled rotors offer no advantages. Check out their sites.

 

[xcessiv6]

You want a nice rotor try SSbrakes I love mine get them zinc coated so they don't rust.

 

[SS/GNX]

Buy a set of good cross drilled rotors... but dont put them on.

Then take your car out with the stock brakes and SLAM on your brakes after you get upto 70-80MPH like I did.

THEN put on the cross drilled rotors and do the same thing.

Then you can tell me that they dont make a difference.

Until then... im not listening.

I noticed TREMENDOUS less brake fade, not to mention, the rotors were warped to death after slamming on em.

And Baer and Wilwood (if thats even on thier site) are probably comparing
THIER ventilated rotors to their cross drilled rotors.

Those work just a tad better than OEM standard ventilated rotors.

 

[SS/GNX]

OHH, and race cars... dont use them to appeal to buyers. LOL!

They use them to save lives and win races!

 

[TurboTnZ06]

Bought my 2001 Z06 July 27, 2001. Replaced the cracked and badly warped original rotors with baer eradispeed cross drilled and slotted rotors and 2003 Z06 GM pads on Christmas day 2002, roughly 18-23K miles on the car (I cant remember exactly). The holes are chamfered. Today is Jan 18 2008. The baer's were heat cycled/treated etc per the instructions in the baer website when I put them on. I have been autocrossing and put about 45000 miles on them since then and they are not warped at all! There are hairline cracks, but they stop awesome and still work just fine. They were about $750 IIRC...

Time for a new set since the pads are about wore out

 

[jdpolzin]

Yeah, dont use cross drilled rotors... just because race cars, and companies like mercedez benz, ferrari, lamborgini, etc. use them on ALL thier ultra high peformance vehicles, doesnt mean they are worth a crap.

Just use the stock garbage, thats always best

Reduced brake fade due to the lack of immense heat will out stop the stockers even though they have more of a "friction surface".

Not to mention, the HEAT is what causes the rotor to warp... thats why the disks are venitlated to begin with... but that doesnt hold up under extreme conditions. Cross Drilled rotors WORK.

Everyone that blabs on about them cracking or not being effective has never used them or their head for that matter. OR they buy chinese metal made garbage for cheap on ebay like a moron. With all the engineering that goes into race cars, if regular rotors were better, or if cross drilled rotors cracked, do you think THEY would use them?

Cause thats what they want at 200MPH... To not be able to stop and to crack their rotors. LOL.

Sorry, rough day at work... had to vent somewhere. No offense to anyone.

I feel better now.

No offense but actually the main reason the race cars drill the rotors is for de-gassing not necessarily heat. I have a TON of history in brakes and suspension on race cars and street cars. Please dont refer to me as a MORON! If you research a little of the effectiveness of a drilled rotor by most Street/Autocross vehicels, you will find that the majority would say not to use a drilled and slotted rotor but rather, get a big set of brakes and a good pad like the Hawk HPS. I do agree with you that the cheap Chinese made crap on Ebay is a great way to get cracked brakes. I personally sold my set of OEM C5 regular rotors and my HAWK pads because I wanted the drilled and slotted look and I dont mind buying new ones (I get my parts at cost from GM) if I have any problems. The key if you do use drilled and slotted rotors is to use a quality ceramic pad. These will help resist wear and dust. If you do have a drilled and slotted rotor, dont use a soft pad high grip pad. It's basically a balance between the two options. If you have a full race (autocross) car, you will probably want a drilled and slotted rotor and a sticky pad to get as much bite out of the brakes and you shouldnt mind changing your brakes out often or coating your wheels with dust.

 

[TurboTnZ06]

No offense but actually the main reason the race cars drill the rotors is for de-gassing not necessarily heat. I have a TON of history in brakes and suspension on race cars and street cars. Please dont refer to me as a MORON! If you research a little of the effectiveness of a drilled rotor by most Autocross vehicels, you will find that the majority would say not to use a drilled and slotted rotor but rather, get a big set of brakes and a good pad like the Hawk HPS. I do agree with you that the cheap Chinese made crap on Ebay is a great way to get cracked brakes. I personally sold my set of OEM C5 regular rotors and my HAWK pads because I wanted the drilled and slotted look and I dont mind buying new ones (I get my parts at cost from GM) if I have any problems. The key if you do use drilled and slotted rotors is to use a quality ceramic pad. These will help resist wear and dust. If you do have a drilled and slotted rotor, dont use a soft pad high grip pad. It's basically a balance between the two options. If you have a full race (autocross) car, you will probably want a drilled and slotted rotor and a sticky pad to get as much bite out of the brakes and you shouldnt mind changing your brakes out often or coating your wheels with dust.

All the C5/6 corvette guys that track theirs say get stock OEM rotors and good Hawk pads since you replace them at the end of the day anyways.

 

[TurboTnZ06]

They do look good though

 

[Just a Six??]

Anyone using the G-Body drilled-slotted rotors he sells....opinions good or bad please! I need to buy a set ASAP and have found only a few other sources for like rotors...might as well support a vendor.

TIA

Since no one really answered your question in their debate I will. I installed Brians rotors last year with Hawk pads. Car saw about 2500 miles & some track days. The setup works good but I noticed by the end of the year a tiny bit of brake squeal. Will throw some Stop Sqeal on come spring. I also have the S-10's on the back & with Vacuum setup the car stops fine.
Brians are decent but there are better. Depends what you want I guess?

 

[SS/GNX]

No offense but actually the main reason the race cars drill the rotors is for de-gassing not necessarily heat. I have a TON of history in brakes and suspension on race cars and street cars. Please dont refer to me as a MORON! If you research a little of the effectiveness of a drilled rotor by most Street/Autocross vehicels, you will find that the majority would say not to use a drilled and slotted rotor but rather, get a big set of brakes and a good pad like the Hawk HPS. I do agree with you that the cheap Chinese made crap on Ebay is a great way to get cracked brakes. I personally sold my set of OEM C5 regular rotors and my HAWK pads because I wanted the drilled and slotted look and I dont mind buying new ones (I get my parts at cost from GM) if I have any problems. The key if you do use drilled and slotted rotors is to use a quality ceramic pad. These will help resist wear and dust. If you do have a drilled and slotted rotor, dont use a soft pad high grip pad. It's basically a balance between the two options. If you have a full race (autocross) car, you will probably want a drilled and slotted rotor and a sticky pad to get as much bite out of the brakes and you shouldnt mind changing your brakes out often or coating your wheels with dust.

FWIW I was referring to people buying cheap chinese parts on ebay morons...

So if that is what you do, then I guess I was calling you a moron, but if its not, then I wasnt...

 

[jdpolzin]

All the C5/6 corvette guys that track theirs say get stock OEM rotors and good Hawk pads since you replace them at the end of the day anyways.

Those rotors look awesome on your car!!! If you do need to change them out sometime, check out these ACDelco's:
Part # 19183532 or 18A1079 for RF
Part # 19183533 or 18A1080 for LF

These are a very good quality product at a great price. KORE3 recommends these as well!

Those HPS pads wear very easily but they do grip well! HAWK is selling a ceramic pad right now but i actually found out that the ceramic pad for the C5 brakes is identical to ACDelcos ceramic! Hope this helps! ------Jeremy

 

[TurboTnZ06]

Those rotors look awesome on your car!!! If you do need to change them out sometime, check out these ACDelco's:
Part # 19183532 or 18A1079 for RF
Part # 19183533 or 18A1080 for LF

These are a very good quality product at a great price. KORE3 recommends these as well!

Those HPS pads wear very easily but they do grip well! HAWK is selling a ceramic pad right now but i actually found out that the ceramic pad for the C5 brakes is identical to ACDelcos ceramic! Hope this helps! ------Jeremy

Thanks!

 

[jdpolzin]

FWIW I was referring to people buying cheap chinese parts on ebay morons...

So if that is what you do, then I guess I was calling you a moron, but if its not, then I wasnt...

No offense taken, I see that you were referring to the Ebay ones and I agree 100%. They are junk and completely worthless!

 

[POWERBRAKEBOB]

Hydroboost Conversion

Baer's rotors are actually made by Disc Brakes Australia. (DBA) I have a set on my ZR-!. Yeah, they work fine. Those DBA rotors are not cheap stock style rotors. They are really much thicker on the inside, with curved vanes to make them a more solid piece, with more even temps. Brake pads start to "gas" (evaporate the resin binders) at approx 700 degrees. Pad temps rarely get that high on the street. Most real race cars throw away their rotors and pads after every race. Drilling rotors does not raise the line pressure, and does not add friction surface to the rotor. It reduces friction surface. Rotors draw in air from the inside of the rotor, and fling it out centrifugally all over the wheel. Like a turbo or hair dryer. They can't pull in air from the o.d. of the rotor. You can feel the fan effect on the brake rotor lathe. Another reason, and the main one that rotors crack, is because the rear brakes are not pulling back hard enough on the entire chassis. The factories have reduced rear braking, like using Volkswagen sized rear wheel cyls on the G.N. and prop valves to prevent rear wheel lockup mostly with bald tires in the rain. G.M. gets sued for things like that. The factories usually proportion the brake pressure up to 80% into the fronts. The rotors warp, and the rears never wear out. 80% front braking pulls the a-frames back hard, disturbing the alignment, and making the car feel weird in a hard turn. Air brake trucks have huge drum brakes in the rear, and minimal front brakes. When those fronts lock, say, on a mountain, they are going over the side. If the brake system is balanced, then the rotors should not go over 700-900 degres (red hot) and gassing would not occur. Also, a simple hacksawed "X" slot across the pad surface will also allow any gases to escape. This is in the Chevrolet Power Book.