Opioion on in-tank pump

[turbo89]

We started using the Walbro 400/450 pump a few years ago, and so far it has the best output of any single in-tank fuel pump other than a submersible Aeromotive 1100 series pump which is mounted on the tank floor instead of a hanger.

The problem with most in-tank pumps is improper and inadequate wiring. The performance and flow ratings on most in-tank pumps is with a good power source at 13.5 volts and a proper ground to the battery. Generally we like to see pump voltage of 14+ volts at WOT in a performance build to be on the safe side.

A GN has run high 9's with one DW301 pump with a hose line kit and additional voltage.

I am confident that one 450 in-tank pump can supply enough e-85 to run into the 9's which is ~650 RWHP in a GN, and we will be testing such a system over the next few months




t

Ok there has to be a disconnect here ( most likely on my end ) your saying you've run a GN in the 9's on a single DW301 pump on E85 , BOOST231 is saying he has run a DW pump out before a set of 80# injectors ,

I couldn't even tell you how many Turbo Buicks have been setup with DW30x pumps and 80's on E85 and I just cant see 9's with either ... you guys sure about what your sayin?

 

[Nick Micale]

Ok there has to be a disconnect here.......?

I couldn't even tell you how many Turbo Buicks have been setup with DW30x pumps and 80's on E85 and I just cant see 9's with either ... you guys sure about what your sayin?

When I first heard about this 9 sec. GN I was amazed, and needed to know how this was possible with one DW300 pump?

I did see the time slip and know the people real well that achieved this feat, so I was told the simple answer.

The DW pump was running at 17 volts at WOT being supplied by a Kenne-Bell Boost-a-Pump!

I also have 17 volts at WOT with the external Aeromotive fuel pump on my race car.

Over MANY years we have seen lots of issues with fuel delivery and pumps, which have been caused by inadequate wiring which will not provide sufficient voltage/power to the pump.

The stock type hangars, original and aftermarket, have crappy pin connect trying to pass enough current, both power and ground to and from the pump.

A typical hot wire kit will bring good voltage to the connector, then it must pass through the crappy wires and connectors at the tank.

On top of that, the ground not only has to pass through the tank hanger, it does not have 10 gauge wire, and is then connected to the frame or body to make its way back to the battery, bad idea.

How can a low carbon, rusty steel frame made up of 20 or so pieces conduct electricity as well as a quality 10 gauge stranded copper wire?

In the past 6 months I have seen and repaired wiring on a few aftermarket, off-shore senders with crap connectors, as well as some unknown metal wire, not copper, which was melted?

I get lots of question about fuel line size, but no one is usually concerned about electrical power to and from the pump if they have a hot wire kit. Every turbo car should have a hot wire kit, but a serious street or race car additionally needs to have better wiring and components.

In our units, the wire, relays and connectors all components are selected and sized for reliability and performance way beyond factory specs. For example, our relays are $55 vs. $20 for a typical similar product.

 

[turbo89]

When I first heard about this 9 sec. GN I was amazed, and needed to know how this was possible with one DW300 pump?

I did see the time slip and know the people real well that achieved this feat, so I was told the simple answer.

The DW pump was running at 17 volts at WOT being supplied by a Kenne-Bell Boost-a-Pump!

I also have 17 volts at WOT with the external Aeromotive fuel pump on my race car.

Over MANY years we have seen lots of issues with fuel delivery and pumps, which have been caused by inadequate wiring which will not provide sufficient voltage/power to the pump.

The stock type hangars, original and aftermarket, have crappy pin connect trying to pass enough current, both power and ground to and from the pump.

A typical hot wire kit will bring good voltage to the connector, then it must pass through the crappy wires and connectors at the tank.

On top of that, the ground not only has to pass through the tank hanger, it does not have 10 gauge wire, and is then connected to the frame or body to make its way back to the battery, bad idea.

How can a low carbon, rusty steel frame made up of 20 or so pieces conduct electricity as well as a quality 10 gauge stranded copper wire?

In the past 6 months I have seen and repaired wiring on a few aftermarket, off-shore senders with crap connectors, as well as some unknown metal wire, not copper, which was melted?

I get lots of question about fuel line size, but no one is usually concerned about electrical power to and from the pump if they have a hot wire kit. Every turbo car should have a hot wire kit, but a serious street or race car additionally needs to have better wiring and components.

In our units, the wire, relays and connectors all components are selected and sized for reliability and performance way beyond factory specs. For example, our relays are $55 vs. $20 for a typical similar product.

Agreed .. im the guy that has always been posting about CLEAN POWER to the pump .. but even @ 16 volts .. I cant see that pump supporting a 9 second E85 fueled GN .. that just seems to be out in left field .. must be the Arizona air

 

[Nick Micale]

Agreed .. im the guy that has always been posting about CLEAN POWER to the pump .. but even @ 16 volts .. I cant see that pump supporting a 9 second E85 fueled GN .. that just seems to be out in left field .. must be the Arizona air

Sorry, I forgot this thread was in the E85 forum and I should have stated that the 9 sec. GN was using gas, not E85

That should make you happy, as I had the "disconnect" in this case, not you!

My limit with one DW300 pump on gas is just barley into the 10's on gas, so it would be crazy to try and get into the 9's on E85?

 

[tbaumann]

We started using the Walbro 400/450 pump a few years ago, and so far it has the best output of any single in-tank fuel pump other than a submersible Aeromotive 1100 series pump which is mounted on the tank floor instead of a hanger.

The problem with most in-tank pumps is improper and inadequate wiring. The performance and flow ratings on most in-tank pumps is with a good power source at 13.5 volts and a proper ground to the battery. Generally we like to see pump voltage of 14+ volts at WOT in a performance build to be on the safe side.

A GN has run high 9's with one DW301 pump with a hose line kit and additional voltage.

I am confident that one 450 in-tank pump can supply enough e-85 to run into the 9's which is ~650 RWHP in a GN, and we will be testing such a system over the next few months

t

People that switched to the to the walbro 430 lphr, what needs to be done to convert. I am assuming that there are modifications to the hanger. I could update the wiring at that point also. Do I need to by a new assembly? or just modify the stock hanger. At this point it might be easier to use the Ractronix RXP340M - 340L/Hr since it seems to be a drop in replacement. I am also thinking of updating the lines (the short 2 ft steel one on top of the tank) but I am not sure that is needed.

 

[dragrazor]

I was lucky and found a racetronix hanger by itself. Racetronix no longer sells hangers by themselves so the only option is to buy a hanger with a pump already installed. Racetronix sells it with the walbro 450l i believe.

 

[turbo89]

People that switched to the to the walbro 430 lphr, what needs to be done to convert. I am assuming that there are modifications to the hanger. I could update the wiring at that point also. Do I need to by a new assembly? or just modify the stock hanger. At this point it might be easier to use the Ractronix RXP340M - 340L/Hr since it seems to be a drop in replacement. I am also thinking of updating the lines (the short 2 ft steel one on top of the tank) but I am not sure that is needed.

you have a stock GN engine .. a single DW300 will make enough power to hurt your motor .. what more do you need ?

 

[tbaumann]

you have a stock GN engine .. a single DW300 will make enough power to hurt your motor .. what more do you need ?

As long as I am replacing the pump is there any reason not to go to the walbro 430 lphr. This way the fuel system is set fro what ever in the future. Am I missing something?

 

[turbo89]

As long as I am replacing the pump is there any reason not to go to the walbro 430 lphr. This way the fuel system is set fro what ever in the future. Am I missing something?

With the DW300 you wont have to alter any of the fuel lines .. its a direct drop in ... and will support enough power to hurt a stock 109 ..
anything larger than this pump and you will have to upgrade the return line , and possibly the mount ...

its just not needed in 95% of the cars people have on here .. Also I am not an advocate of the WALBRO pumps anymore .. too many bad experiences and their warranty is non-existent .

DW IMO is the best thing going for the buicks ... when you run a single out.. just add another and make it a tandem .. simple to do and only run the 2 nd pump when you need it.

I cant say enough good about the DW pumps .. they just plain work !

 

[tbaumann]

With the DW300 you wont have to alter any of the fuel lines .. its a direct drop in ... and will support enough power to hurt a stock 109 ..
anything larger than this pump and you will have to upgrade the return line , and possibly the mount ...

its just not needed in 95% of the cars people have on here .. Also I am not an advocate of the WALBRO pumps anymore .. too many bad experiences and their warranty is non-existent .

DW IMO is the best thing going for the buicks ... when you run a single out.. just add another and make it a tandem .. simple to do and only run the 2 nd pump when you need it.

I cant say enough good about the DW pumps .. they just plain work !

So it sound like if I go with the DW301 I dod not have to modify the hanger. I would like to upgrade the intank wiring. Can I use this - BCWA-G77 - Turbo Buick Fuel Pump Sender Harness Kit. How do you handle the soldered connection on the top of the hanger? Is anything else needed?

Am I better off getting a new hanger or complete assembly.

Where is the best place to get the pump and harness. Does Ractronix still stock them?

 

[turbo89]

So it sound like if I go with the DW301 I dod not have to modify the hanger. I would like to upgrade the intank wiring. Can I use this - BCWA-G77 - Turbo Buick Fuel Pump Sender Harness Kit. How do you handle the soldered connection on the top of the hanger? Is anything else needed?

Am I better off getting a new hanger or complete assembly.

Where is the best place to get the pump and harness. Does Ractronix still stock them?

The ground circuit is the one you have to upgrade .. the stock one is shady at best.. then run a good hotwire kit .. that's all you should need to do ..
if you want overkill just run redundant grounds

 

[tbaumann]

The ground circuit is the one you have to upgrade .. the stock one is shady at best.. then run a good hotwire kit .. that's all you should need to do ..
if you want overkill just run redundant grounds

I have a hot wire kit installed. So what do you recommend fro an upgraded ground. Do you run a new wire from the tab to the fame??

 

[Boost231]

New ground from the pump to the battery

Sent from my SM-N910T using Tapatalk

 

[Toby_Goodmk]

Even on nicks new pump and hot wire kit the ground runs with the positive...it attaches to the alternator. Hard to make it go over to the battery.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

 

[vacuum 6]

Over MANY years we have seen lots of issues with fuel delivery and pumps, which have been caused by inadequate wiring which will not provide sufficient voltage/power to the pump.

The stock type hangars, original and aftermarket, have crappy pin connect trying to pass enough current, both power and ground to and from the pump.

A typical hot wire kit will bring good voltage to the connector, then it must pass through the crappy wires and connectors at the tank.

On top of that, the ground not only has to pass through the tank hanger, it does not have 10 gauge wire, and is then connected to the frame or body to make its way back to the battery, bad idea.

How can a low carbon, rusty steel frame made up of 20 or so pieces conduct electricity as well as a quality 10 gauge stranded copper wire?

In the past 6 months I have seen and repaired wiring on a few aftermarket, off-shore senders with crap connectors, as well as some unknown metal wire, not copper, which was melted?

Sorry hacking the thread.

So nick what's the easiest way to run the battery ground to a Hotwire kit?

I have a Hotwire kit AND a new SS hanger assy.

 

[Boost231]

Even on nicks new pump and hot wire kit the ground runs with the positive...it attaches to the alternator. Hard to make it go over to the battery.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

Run the harness down the passenger frame and connect to the battery

Sent from my SM-N910T using Tapatalk

 

[Boost231]

Sorry hacking the thread.

So nick what's the easiest way to run the battery ground to a Hotwire kit?

I have a Hotwire kit AND a new SS hanger assy.

Weld a stud or afix a wire to the hanger as you see fit and run the wire to the battery.

Sent from my SM-N910T using Tapatalk

 

[turbo89]

I have a hot wire kit installed. So what do you recommend fro an upgraded ground. Do you run a new wire from the tab to the fame??

Correct .. a redundant ground on any solid portion of the frame is all you need .. the entire ground needs to be clean .. pay attention to this

 

[vacuum 6]

Weld a stud or afix a wire to the hanger as you see fit and run the wire to the battery.

Sent from my SM-N910T using Tapatalk

There's a wire soldered to the hanger and clips to the gas tank. I'll use that wire.

 

[vacuum 6]

There you go. Blue 10 ga wire is the battery negative.