You can type here any text you want

popped head gasket

Welcome!

By registering with us, you'll be able to discuss, share and private message with other members of our community.

SignUp Now!
What kind of power are you making?
Any 1/4 mile runs?

I run Fel Pro gaskets from the local Auto Zone store... hate to say this but haven't blown a head gasket yet, been running the buick turbo's since 1979(water/alky injection 16 lbs boost in 1980).... now I just jinxed myself....currently running 25lbs on the street, will creep up to 30 at the track.

I will add that the audio knock sensor has saved me more then once, like the time the alky power wire came out of the fuse box during a run.....

I would recommend the audible knock alarm to everyone who can't watch 5 different gages at the same time while trying to keep the Buick straight at over 100 mph.

Chuck
 
I agree with rick the RJC's are the way to go but follow ALL steps. Thats why I went to a 14 bolt block and heads don't want this problem LOL and the price is right
i know these things are strong but arent they a pain as far as retorquing all the time

We have used both Cometics and RJCs. BUT we only run steel heads. Alum heads would make the car to fast :p ANYWAY... RJCs we used didn't blow.. Just ate a piston instead :biggrin: Obviouslly had a tuning "issue" with the car. 27k on the car!! Good point on the Cometics as far as alum heads.. I could never understand how guys were torching them !!
i know there is a tuning issue but cant put my finger on it. i always drive it carefully and full tank of gas and alky always full. 6.0 chip and wideband always track 10.7 to 10.9. but i always get knock on tire spin. i know i should have street tires but wanted to do a cruising year to break it in before i hit the track. so kept putting them off them especially with the tranny cost. i have to be below 60mph before i go wot. boost is instant with wot and i get knock and heard it a few times. if i go 60 mph and ease into it at wot there is no knock and it pulls to 130mph clean and rich

What kind of power are you making?
Any 1/4 mile runs?no track but at 23 psi and a good 60ft with the te60 it should be high 10's

I run Fel Pro gaskets from the local Auto Zone store... hate to say this but haven't blown a head gasket yet, been running the buick turbo's since 1979(water/alky injection 16 lbs boost in 1980).... now I just jinxed myself....currently running 25lbs on the street, will creep up to 30 at the track.

I will add that the audio knock sensor has saved me more then once, like the time the alky power wire came out of the fuse box during a run.....

I would recommend the audible knock alarm to everyone who can't watch 5 different gages at the same time while trying to keep the Buick straight at over 100 mph.

Chuck
thanks. i got my wire zip tied to fuse block. you should do that
 
i used permatex 2 on studs with gm tablets. weeped for 10 min on first start.

I have never had any weeping or otherwise when using graphite gaskets. Sounds like whatever issue created this came back at ya.

Next time use Loctite 567 on the studs going into the block.
 
What kind of power are you making?
like the time the alky power wire came out of the fuse box during a run.....


Chuck

Anything critical to keeping the engine together needs to be tied down. Including hose to MAP sensor.

Yes on the audible.

I bet when all is said and done.. its not a detonation issue, but assembly error of some kind.
 
Are rjc head gaskets good for a stock undecked or surfaced block? I know my local gn shop says cometics arent good for motors that dont have surfaced blocks and heads.
 
We have used both Cometics and RJCs. BUT we only run steel heads. Alum heads would make the car to fast :p ANYWAY... RJCs we used didn't blow.. Just ate a piston instead :biggrin: Obviouslly had a tuning "issue" with the car. 27k on the car!! Good point on the Cometics as far as alum heads.. I could never understand how guys were torching them !!

Anything critical to keeping the engine together needs to be tied down. Including hose to MAP sensor.

Yes on the audible.

I bet when all is said and done.. its not a detonation issue, but assembly error of some kind.
well its a detonation issue. just got the driverside off and can see where the coolant dumped in the intake. the bottom of gasket is clean but the top all three cylinders the graphite is gone. no cylinder distortion either 003.jpg001.jpg
 
Brian,
Sounds like either there was oil or something else on the surface when it was assebled or the fasteners wherent tq'd down correctly.

I have never seen an engine only do 1 bank, then on that bank have all three cylinders fail. Especially with graphites as they are suppossed to "stick". Look at the fire rings still intact.

For arguements sake, take the head and confirm if it is flat to any reputable machine shop. That should be easy. If so, drop in a new set of gaskets and move forward. PT9441 Felpro's and be 100% certain both surfaces head and block are oil free. Brake cleaner works great. Teflon paste the studs in.. Loctite 567. And make sure the TQ wrench is new or calibrated. 40/60/80/85.

I think there are plenty of blown head gasket pictures on this forum. Typically its #3 and the fire ring is blown out.
 
I have never had any weeping or otherwise when using graphite gaskets. Sounds like whatever issue created this came back at ya.

Next time use Loctite 567 on the studs going into the block.

That weeping probably got under the gasket and caused the failure. Use to be old timers would put oil in the bolts while putting on heads, the oil would run down hole in the head and wet the gasket.. causing a failure. Gaskets and surfaces have to be oil free and dry. For me when I clean I like to see it start spot rusting on the surface.
 
Brian, that looks like the problem but I don't see where there was detonation. Like Julio says, there was a problem with adhesion. The surface had to be contaminated or the gasket was damaged. I use lacquer thinner when prepping for assembly.

Have the heads checked for sure. As far as gaskets, I still say RJC. They only require one re torque then you can forget about it.

RL
 
I was hoping it wasn't a detonation issue. The bottom of gasket as you can see is all intact and was stuck to the head. Don't know why the top didn't I used thinner several times and torqued to 90 ft #. But why did it eat graphite on top past the ring. Were the heads lifting? DD anybody ever high tachometer felpros? Just a thought. Weber decked block and heads
 
Brian sorry to hear about popping the HG. You get knock when it hooks?
 
Brian,
Sounds like either there was oil or something else on the surface when it was assebled or the fasteners wherent tq'd down correctly.

I have never seen an engine only do 1 bank, then on that bank have all three cylinders fail. Especially with graphites as they are suppossed to "stick". Look at the fire rings still intact.

For arguements sake, take the head and confirm if it is flat to any reputable machine shop. That should be easy. If so, drop in a new set of gaskets and move forward. PT9441 Felpro's and be 100% certain both surfaces head and block are oil free. Brake cleaner works great. Teflon paste the studs in.. Loctite 567. And make sure the TQ wrench is new or calibrated. 40/60/80/85.

I think there are plenty of blown head gasket pictures on this forum. Typically its #3 and the fire ring is blown out.

So Julio you like the 9441 HGs?
 
Never got knock when it hooked. Am going to take.off passenger side and post top and bottom of gasket
 
here is the passengerside the bottom of gasket is ok but the top of gasket the graphite is eatin away. now the bottom of gasket number 4 cylinder is broke and the fire ring is smashed on the bottom like it was pushed away during torqueing. 002.jpg001.jpg002.jpg
 
698.jpg002.jpg i went to clean the top of block and noticed the number one cylinder to me looks like a crack. i can catch it with my nail. if you save the picture try to blow it up and you can see it better. the bottom of gasket has the same impression. i dont think weber decked the block because the surface wasnt smooth when i got it. what do you think
 

Attachments

  • 003.jpg
    003.jpg
    13.7 KB · Views: 460
You are correct, it was not square decked. Bring a piston to TDC, and measure how far down in the hole they are.

K.
 
View attachment 147172View attachment 147171 i went to clean the top of block and noticed the number one cylinder to me looks like a crack. i can catch it with my nail. if you save the picture try to blow it up and you can see it better. the bottom of gasket has the same impression. i dont think weber decked the block because the surface wasnt smooth when i got it. what do you think

The block wasnt decked. Thats evident when looking at pictures from when it was newly received back. Blocks that are decked have a machined look to them.

Get a scotchbrite wheel and clean up the area. Its hard to tell with all that graphite on the surface.
 
talked to weber and after cleaning it is a tiny scratch. they said it didnt need decked and or squared. i did have that done 5 yrs ago on a previous rebuild. will pull motor and polish the deck as best i can. and probably go with orings and victor reinze since they are the same as gm. the felpros have a smaller gauge ring. will problably pull motor and clean and check bearings and if no good send back to weber for decking and rebuild. also decided to get a 55 gallon drum of race gas and run alky for cooling. i figured i would lose a fill up here and there since i can get it for 7 bucks a gallon. will save money and headaches in the long run. with a good tune i can get 30mpg. staying out of it of course. so hopefully bearings are good.
 
Back
Top