Pos & Neg Battery Connections

[tbcash27]

As I'm getting back into TB's, I bought the Caspers Pos and Neg battery connections. Before I go about installing them, I've looked for pics and/or threads that would provide guidance to no avail . I realize that this is not a difficult install, but I would like to do it right and ensure it is correct. What I'm looking for assistance on is the following:

1. Ground to the turbo hanger. Does anyone have a picture that I can follow to determine where to ground? The current setup, which is bad and the way the car came, has the ground to the heat shield support (stock turbo)...the result being that the insulation is melting away. Pic anyone?

2. Pos to Alternator. Is the lenght of the cable long enough to follow the current path which looks to go under the engine or is it to be installed through a different path? Does anyone have a pic

3. Pos to Starter. I've been unable to locate the starter visually (still a noob) and it would appear that the cable is not long enough. Which means I'm not looking at the install correctly. Again, any pic or site for guidance.

If there's a thread or site with pics of the install, that would be great. Many thanks.

Chris

 

[Royal-T-Ltd]

Here's the POS routing by the alternator…. i'll try and see if i have the NEG as well




hth
aaron

 

[tbcash27]

definitely as I'm more of a visual learner. Thanks for the Alt routing.

 

[Raeban]

 

[SHADOWII]

If you are just replacing the existing cables, just use the same paths as you remove the old ones.

 

[tbcash27]

Thanks to you both as well. Much appreciated

 

[TRICKSIXPA]

The ground cable is simple just remove the 17mm bolt at the bottom of the turbo J bracket. You will see that the Passangerside header heat shield has an indentation to allow access to the bolt. The starter is not too hard to change out the bolts. I have the Caspers cable and it fits fine.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[tbcash27]

Thanks all, got the positive installed today.

Next on to the negative, which looks like it should be easy...however I'm having difficulty determing how to to access the bolt without taking the turbo off :-\. Maybe I'm just not seeing the indentation and need to look closer. Do I need to take the O2 sensor off as well?

 

[Nick Micale]

The stock ground bolt is a 10mm bolt with a 15mm hex, and it is fastened to the pass side head below the turbo with the turbo bracket.

Pull the lower radiator hose out of the way and you have easy access to the bolt with a socket and extension.

 

[tbcash27]

I took a pic of the engine where i believe the ground should go (bottom bolt), by the oxygen sensor, correct? If so, that's the trouble I'm running into as the location of the oxygen sensor does not allow access to the bottom bolt. Is there another location I can then look to ground, such as the top bolt?

For some background, I purchased the car and it came with the aftermarket downpipe and headers. My guess is that they didn't ground to the bolt, and since it was unreachable, decided to bolt it to the turbo shield.

 

[Royal-T-Ltd]

I took a pic of the engine where i believe the ground should go (bottom bolt), by the oxygen sensor, correct? If so, that's the trouble I'm running into as the location of the oxygen sensor does not allow access to the bottom bolt. Is there another location I can then look to ground, such as the top bolt?

For some background, I purchased the car and it came with the aftermarket downpipe and headers. My guess is that they didn't ground to the bolt, and since it was unreachable, decided to bolt it to the turbo shield.

yep thats the right location. You should be able to still get to it. Try a different angle. Use an extension and go from the front… if that doesn't work, go from under the car. I know i have removed and installed mine before and my O2 sensor is in the same spot. Worse case scenario just undo the O2 sensor…..


aaron

 

[tbcash27]

Finally installed the cable; addressed by attacking from the front. Removed the O2 sensor and then used a flexible head ratchet to reachto the bolt. However, the trick to it was to use a second wrench for leverage to loosen and then tighten the bolt. This was because the ratchet head was at approximately 90% angle leaving me unable to manually turn the wrench. Using a second wrench to make an L out of the two wrenches, thereby generating some leverage I was able to loosen and tighten the bolt.