Well I order a new Casper engine harness a year ago when I was starting this project. The old harness worked but I had a bad case of whileimatititis and there was a Harness sale. John Spina really works with you to make one to meet your needs and there are a few options I chose. I wanted to hide my harness under the intake instead of along the valve cover so he lengthened the appropriate wires. I chose the positive fuseable link as well as the negative ground adapter. I opted for the extended battery harness kit as well. That ahold make connecting to the positive fuseable links easier as well as some slack to the starter. The powermaster wiring was removed as well as the egr and waste gate wires. The delay relay was eliminated and the alt field was prewired to eliminate the dash bulb from causing charging issues. The alt power cable was integrated so I don't have to run a wire under the block like stock. If you order on make sure you've figured out how your setup will be first.
Power touring GN Build Thread
- Thread starter bishir
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Notice the front rim? It won't fit the stock rim centercap because of the billet dust cover on the Baer kit. I called Baer and the solution is to run a factory style stamped metal dust cover. I was given Dorman part 618-102.
The other issue as you can see is the lugs are way too short! I didn't ask Baer about that but I'm not too sure they would work for most aftermarket rims and stock rims wouldn't fit on this kit... Time for longer studs... Anyone familiar with Baer kits! Can they be pressed out?
The other issue as you can see is the lugs are way too short! I didn't ask Baer about that but I'm not too sure they would work for most aftermarket rims and stock rims wouldn't fit on this kit... Time for longer studs... Anyone familiar with Baer kits! Can they be pressed out?
T-CHRGD
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- Oct 28, 2006
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I'm having the same two issues with my Pro Plus fronts. I'll try to talk to Baer this week. I'll let you know if they're aware of the lug it issue.
Since I'm planning on 275/35 tires up front I'm adding the wheelwell extention kit.
The directions that come with the kit don't really hold your hand through the process. Meaning you'll need to use a little common sense. You remove all but 3/4 inch if the wheel lip using the fiberglass piece as an idea how far you cut. There is no templete for cutting the lip where the moldling attaches. I don't run molding anyway so I'll probably roll mine when through. Here you can use 3/4 inch masking tape as a guide.
The directions that come with the kit don't really hold your hand through the process. Meaning you'll need to use a little common sense. You remove all but 3/4 inch if the wheel lip using the fiberglass piece as an idea how far you cut. There is no templete for cutting the lip where the moldling attaches. I don't run molding anyway so I'll probably roll mine when through. Here you can use 3/4 inch masking tape as a guide.
My friend helping me with this part of the project is a body man who's working for some free food. He's going to bring some panel bond from work so we stopped for the day. The kit comes with adhesive but he feels more comfortable with his product. The plan is going to be slightly different from the kit but it should work nonetheless.
T-CHRGD
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- Oct 28, 2006
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Do you have a part number for the studs?
Thanks
T-CHRGD
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- Joined
- Oct 28, 2006
- Messages
- 1,524
Thanks, I'll talk to Rick 
