powerlogger install tips

Welcome!

By registering with us, you'll be able to discuss, share and private message with other members of our community.

SignUp Now!
I just got it installed and got a few malfunction codes. I believe they were 25, 31,31,33,34,41,42. Some of which blinked. Looked them up, one was cam sensor, air temp sensor, maf too low and too high, est circuit fail. Anyone can help me with that? Plus i just got the car fixed up by Jim Dunn, so i highly doubt the cam is off or damage. Never tinkered with it after bringing back from him. Plus to top it all off, i had no malfunction codes on my scanmaster before i went to pull the computer.

Sent from my iPhone using Turbo Buick
 
I wondering did you get all the goo off the terminals on the computer where in pl plugs on ? Thats just too many codes
 
TurboTdr3.8 said:
I wondering did you get all the goo off the terminals on the computer where in pl plugs on ? Thats just too many codes

Yea i tried. Well i also added this anti oxidant grease which also helps with conductivity. Maybe that's why.

Sent from my iPhone using Turbo Buick
 
TurboTdr3.8 said:
that might be your problem not getting a connection , I left mine dry , slide it on several times to shine up the connections

Ill try taking that smear off and using some extra goo gone.

Sent from my iPhone using Turbo Buick
 
I've had mine installed for a few yrs. and it's a driver, no sitting in the garage over here. I have a tip for you guys, go buy a roll of velcro tape(handy stuff for around the house), looks like a over sized scotch tape dispenser. When your sure that you have all the goo off the mother board connector, and you seated the power logger board by taking it on and off a few times, add a 2nd pc(mine came with one pc) of 1" square velcro strip to fit between the power logger board and the mother board(this 2nd pc I added above the USB port side of the board). This will help hold the power logger board in place, by having two pieces of velcro tape there instead of one. (I think this should be a standard practice if using the PL)
Also cut a very small little notch out of the kick panel like someone already mentioned, right where the USB cable, form your laptop, connects to go to PL. This was tugging the PL board down off the ECM MB on my car.
By the way if you have the PL, wide band and scan master, your ready to go "Speed Density" if you choose to. Nothing like being able to tweak (20) parameters in your ecm chip, while sitting in your driveway with nothing but the scan master and your gas pedal.... but that's a different subject.
I run a Turbo Tweak Speed Density Chip and every time that power logger board unseats from the mother board, the parameters in the chip get screwy. This has happened 3 times so far, but now I added that 2nd pc of velcro, that should put a end to it. Last week it happened, (for the last time I hope) when I pulled out from the light and some a hole wanted to butt there *ss in front of me, as two lanes merged into one, not happening, especially when there is no traffic and they assumed the antique car was slow.... maybe it's the stock 84 wheels?

Chuck
 
I picked up a used ECM and kick panel to rework so I have all the original components for the car....
 
I installed mine a few days ago. Good lighting is key for getting the coating off. I noticed the edge had to be scraped off to keep everything even. There are 9 bolts to take out when seperating the boards. And Yes the round beige cord that connects to the IO is that long! I just wrapped it up with zip ties. LC-1 brown wire goes to the L1 lug of the IO.
Wrap tape around the USB connection on PL. This will stiffen the cord to PL connection just in case it gets pulled or tugged.
 
Well when my original ecm crapped out i swapped out to another one part # ending 148 which is the GM originals. Second crapped out as well. Second ecm I didn't put the goo on. Yes I notched a bit out of the kickpanel for the usb cable. I think I know where I went wrong, or at least missed a step on the instructions.

I didn't put the piece of electrical tape around the edges of the ecm casing around the powerlogger. Is it possible that the case shorted the ecm by touching the PL? But if it did.... why was I able to start the car drive it for 45 minutes, sht it off for about 15 minutes, then drive for 30 minutes (visit a friend), shut the car off for a little over 2 hours, then drive back another 30 minutes home (when I started her the car ran like I can reset the memory of the chip on the ecm), next day 2nd ecm crapped out.

Could that piece of black electrical tape have been causing me the problems?
 
Back
Top