powermaster being manufactured again?

[tommynos]

i see a powermaster on ebay and the guy says they are being produced again?is this true?are they better than the originals?anyone know the price of one,he only lets you bid as of now...if they are still pricey im not getting one,id rather go hydro, spend the hi price and forget it,or go to vacuum and cross my fingers...i think powerbrakebob should just give me a hydro set-up at cost and ill give you good people feedback on it ,

 

[zeus87gn]

Sounds interesting. Where is the add in ebay?

 

[tommynos]

Sounds interesting. Where is the add in ebay?

Item number: 250081161091...i emailed him to see how much he is selling them for,no return email as of yet(2 days)?if he is the largest manufacturer of these i would guess he would sell them without bidding,i think he is full of it,not much feedback...

 

[zeus87gn]

Sounds like a new player in the PowerMaster world. Maybe we who believe in the P/M will be able to keep thiem going a little while longer.

That seller may have some trouble trying to sell to the educated. To my knowledge, the pump/motor isn't rebuildable...same with the pressure switch. It may be an NOS bowl on that, but is certainly isn't a reporduction.

I will admit, the seller does have a d@mn good price there!
I hope he's serious in wanting to sell the parts.
The P/M is too easy to rebuild.

 

[phillyturbosix]

They have been around. A1 cardone is making them complete rebuilt units for under 200 bucks. Advanced Auto sells them. There are guys out there trying to get them on eBay and make some money before everyone finds out how cheap they are. They made the first batch and ran out of cores. Now from what I hear A1 cardone got enough cores in again to make them. Check Advanced Auto for them. It's the same thing Kirban sells. Remember if someone is selling an item even if it's ebay or else where if you look harder you can usually get it for half the price. Now run out there and clean them out again but remember to turn your core in so they can make more!

 

[tommynos]

They have been around. A1 cardone is making them complete rebuilt units for under 200 bucks. Advanced Auto sells them. There are guys out there trying to get them on eBay and make some money before everyone finds out how cheap they are. They made the first batch and ran out of cores. Now from what I hear A1 cardone got enough cores in again to make them. Check Advanced Auto for them. It's the same thing Kirban sells. Remember if someone is selling an item even if it's ebay or else where if you look harder you can usually get it for half the price. Now run out there and clean them out again but remember to turn your core in so they can make more!

shweeeet,im calling around tommoro,i have a advanced auto and auto-zone and napa,hopefully someone has them

 

[tommynos]

well i ordered one threw advanced auto for 280 with a lifetime warranty,its a cardone,they also had a bendix for 212,but they only warranty it for 1 year......so now i need directions on installing this thing,i saw somewhere on here that they gave step by step instructions,any help/tips would be appreciated guys...

 

[Hognose]

well i ordered one threw advanced auto for 280 with a lifetime warranty,its a cardone,they also had a bendix for 212,but they only warranty it for 1 year......so now i need directions on installing this thing,i saw somewhere on here that they gave step by step instructions,any help/tips would be appreciated guys...

You got a complete powermaster for $280? Including the Accumulator? That is awesome!

 

[phillyturbosix]

They have been that price for sometime now. I guess people like to get hosed and pay all that money from the people who sell them on ebay and everywhere else. Kirban had A1 Cardone do the brake bowls project. Well A1 is not going to just sell to one person. They sell them to anyone. Just remember guys. If you want to keep this price low and get them turn in your core so they can make more!!

 

[zeus87gn]

well i ordered one threw advanced auto for 280 with a lifetime warranty,its a cardone,they also had a bendix for 212,but they only warranty it for 1 year......so now i need directions on installing this thing,i saw somewhere on here that they gave step by step instructions,any help/tips would be appreciated guys...

Tommy,
You lucked out and got a good deal!!
Lots of info can be found here: Brake System
Basically, you unbolt the old one and bolt in the new one.

BUT, if you want to complete the install correctly, send me a PM or email and I will clue you in on finalizing your installation.

 

[tommynos]

Tommy,
You lucked out and got a good deal!!
Lots of info can be found here: Brake System
Basically, you unbolt the old one and bolt in the new one.

BUT, if you want to complete the install correctly, send me a PM or email and I will clue you in on finalizing your installation.

that was the site i was looking for,thanks....they said the bendix is a better one,but it was limted to a one year warranty,but $212 for a complete powermaster,dont want to hog them,but im thinking i need to buy at least a spare,heck ill talk to the guy and see what he can do on a bunch and offer them up to the turbobuick guys at cost and everyone can call in to the parts store with a address and credit card #?i cant find them online any cheaper than $349 and thats at a1 cardone direct?

 

[zeus87gn]

I have seen the prices all over the place lately.
I have heard the rebuild kits aren't available...then someone has them for sale. Nobody can make up thier minds.

I wouldn't see the need for a complete spare, but that's me.
As long as the fresh one is taken care of properly...and maintained...it will last a while. I had to rebuild mine about 6 yrs ago, but haven't had a problem since. It's all in the maintanence.

 

[tommynos]

not too bad to do,around a hour...man that cotter pin is a beatch to put back in when your putting pressure on the pedal,the rod went right on,the powermaster slid right off..very easy thing to do..hopefully this should be the last one i put in as i was tempted to go hydroboost or vacuum...thanks for the help zues87gn,should i rebuild this as a spare or keep it or turn in the core,this one has the factory directions stamped into the reserve lid(the new one dont and they are different sizes)and my ball has the factory printed directions in yellow(mint looking) and big nut on the side(the new one is just black and round,no nut)my old one actually looks better than the new reman...my old one just kept running and never shut off and the pedal was hard....

 

[zeus87gn]

If your old one just ran and never shut off, it wasn't building pressure. It's in need of rebuild as the seals were allowing the fluid to bypass. If you can find a rebuild kit, it's not a big job. BUT, you need explicit directions and diagrams. If you don't have them, send it back for the core.

If you want to keep the original look on the bowl cover, change it out before you install it. The bowls may be a different shape, but they should attach to the cylinder the same.

The acc ball design that you have now is closer to the "original" ball that was on our Buicks when new. The one you have on your old one is the replacement style that was used during the fcty recall of the original ones. That choice is yours. If it still works, it would be good for a backup. BTW, that acc ball on your reman is NEW. They can't be rebuilt.

I haven't found any rebuilding procedures on line that are comparable to my manual. A proper kit will have most of it. The GNTType procedures are Ok, but there is nothing online for proper bleeding. I have that procedure in process and will be glad to let you see it if you like. It may save you some headache during bench bleeding. Gravity won't do it.

 

[tommynos]

about the bleeding,i did let it gravity bleed for like a half hour,making sure fluid was always full,then i lightly tightened the lines on and had the wife push the pedal slow,letting out the air,she held it and i tightened the line,she again pushed on the pedal and i again loosened the line and repeated this procedure like 8 times,making sure it was full of fluid...
then i turned the ignition on and made sure the resevor stayed 1/4 full on the passenger side and then dry pumped it and turned it on a again to check fluid level,brakes dont seem spongy,they go down like half way before they start to work,but stop it very well,and on a foot brake and sticky tires and a good stall on the street can only reach 5psi,before breaking loose...is this the proper way?does the pedal rod need to be adjusted?if so how,its been so long i dont remeber where the pedal grabbed last time...

 

[zeus87gn]

about the bleeding,i did let it gravity bleed for like a half hour,making sure fluid was always full,then i lightly tightened the lines on and had the wife push the pedal slow,letting out the air,she held it and i tightened the line,she again pushed on the pedal and i again loosened the line and repeated this procedure like 8 times,making sure it was full of fluid......

...and you made a mess of fluid all over the place.

then i turned the ignition on and made sure the resevor stayed 1/4 full on the passenger side and then dry pumped it and turned it on a again to check fluid level,brakes dont seem spongy,they go down like half way before they start to work,but stop it very well,and on a foot brake and sticky tires and a good stall on the street can only reach 5psi,before breaking loose...is this the proper way?does the pedal rod need to be adjusted?if so how,its been so long i dont remeber where the pedal grabbed last time...

The pedal isn't adjustable. Did you see frothy fluid at any time? If you are happy with it's performance, that's your call.

If you haven't bled at the wheels, you should. There is still air in the lines from when you removed the lines to install the new P/M. If you got all the air out this way, you're lucky. But, you probably still have more braking power to be found. Bleed at the wheels after pumping down the acc (10 pedal pumps - no key). You can also adjust the rears for more holding power.

BTW, the p/s of the bowl should be 'about' 1/2 full with the acc pumped up.

I wrote a full procedure on how I do it - without making a mess - without pumping the pedal until you are blue in the face - without leaving any air behind. I am anal about it. I can make my P/M throw you through the windshield with a seatbelt on.

 

[Hognose]

...

I wrote a full procedure on how I do it - without making a mess - without pumping the pedal until you are blue in the face - without leaving any air behind. I am anal about it. I can make my P/M throw you through the windshield with a seatbelt on.

I would love a copy of that article please. I am going to be bleeding my soon. Would love the help. Thanks!

Matthew

 

[zeus87gn]

I would love a copy of that article please. I am going to be bleeding my soon. Would love the help. Thanks!

Matthew

Well, I guess I just need to find a place to post it and be done with it.
I'll have it up soon, one way or another.

 

[Hognose]

Thank you very much!

 

[Hognose]

Well, I guess I just need to find a place to post it and be done with it.
I'll have it up soon, one way or another.

Is this something that you could e-mail me? Thanks
Matthew