Rear Swaybar to Arm Bolts. Upgrade to 7/16?

[HighMileage]

Got a new set of Metco lower arms. I noticed that the holes for the swaybar are much larger than factory.
I also noticed that the swaybar will accept a 7/16 bolt (5/8 hex) with just a little drilling. ...instead of the metric size. Actually,a 7/16 bolt goes thru one swaybar hole already. Thoughts on going 7/16? They will be grade 8.

One other thing... The factory lower arm bolts fit sloppily in the Metco bushings. My factory bolts are not worn. I would think there would be a zero tolerance between the bushing and the bolt. Otherwise,I'll have to make sure the arm is pushed forward on the bolts before tightening it down. ?

Earl... I know. I over-analyze everything.

 

[earlbrown]

I was thinking 7/16 was the stock size.... If the holes in the bar are that close, make the upsize. Back when I first got my ATR rear bar I never could keep the damn things tight. After tossing a couple of nuts (giggity) I put two stock bolts there.... Then later replaced the other two. To this day, 10 years later, I've still got stock bolts on my ATR bar.

On your Metco bars, the clearance hole shouldn't be any larger than standard clearance. (I don't know what standard should be as I'm self taught and I'm always a fan of sticking things in holes that are just barely large enough)



















(giggity)

 

[Jay J]

I was thinking 7/16 was the stock size.... If the holes in the bar are that close, make the upsize. Back when I first got my ATR rear bar I never could keep the damn things tight. After tossing a couple of nuts (giggity) I put two stock bolts there.... Then later replaced the other two. To this day, 10 years later, I've still got stock bolts on my ATR bar.

On your Metco bars, the clearance hole shouldn't be any larger than standard clearance. (I don't know what standard should be as I'm self taught and I'm always a fan of sticking things in holes that are just barely large enough)

Earl: Forgive me for pointing this out, but getting struck by lightning twice really did a number on you!

















(giggity)

 

[HighMileage]

I was thinking 7/16 was the stock size.... If the holes in the bar are that close, make the upsize. Back when I first got my ATR rear bar I never could keep the damn things tight. After tossing a couple of nuts (giggity) I put two stock bolts there.... Then later replaced the other two. To this day, 10 years later, I've still got stock bolts on my ATR bar.

On your Metco bars, the clearance hole shouldn't be any larger than standard clearance. (I don't know what standard should be as I'm self taught and I'm always a fan of sticking things in holes that are just barely large enough)(giggity)

Ok,tomorrow I'll be upsizing the bar to lower arm bolts to 7/16 besides the metric size that is there now.
My factory swaybar bolts were really tight. ..and since the nuts are locknuts,they fought me all the way off.

As far as the control arm bushing holes... I'm not sure what to make of that. There is a lot of slop in the bushing if I just drop the stock bolt in there. They are supposed to be bolt-ons.

If this were an aircraft part,the bolt would slide thru the hole in the bushing with a touch of antiseize and light force.

I don't want to drill my frame out to accept the bushings size.

Probably most that did this install just threw the bolt in and was done with it.

 

[earlbrown]

Use anti-seize anyways. It's a good idea as you never know if the car is going to leave the ground one day.

 

[Chuck Leeper]

"I'm always a fan of sticking things in holes that are just barely large enough)"...Probably why U R familiar w/the 7/6" dimension.

 

[hensleyt]

I replaced mine with UMI ,bolt was not aircraft quality fit but was good.I would think it should be as good as the original arms or tighter .
My front A arm bushings (I forgot manufacture) were very snug

 

[HighMileage]

Well,the right side went ok. But this left side.. Everything is super tight! All of the factory undercoat is still on everything,so its easy to tell nothing has been apart.

I bought this car as a stocker.

Just snapped the lower left control arm bolt. **Feet pushing on a long breaker bar. Snap-On wrench on the nut near the backing plate,braced against the rear end. Keep in mind nothing is rusted under here.

Yeah,I'm under the car and its 17'F. Everything on this left side is so tight!!

Now I need a rear control arm bolt kit,so the other side has to come apart again. Ugh. Earl,this sux.


Time for a bolt kit.

 

[earlbrown]

I would recommend a quality fastener... and some anti-seeze.

 

[HighMileage]

Ok,now that I need a Rear Lower Control Arm bolt kit,I'm looking at the UMI ones. They look decent. Any other options out there?

Earl.. You don't think I'd go get some grade 0 bolts for this.. My over-analytical self sez they have to be grade 10.9.

Got my trusty 8oz bottle of Permatex Anti-Seize here with the brush in it. Checklist...

 

[PSID6]

Stock is 12 mm x 90 mm or 3 3/4" long

 

[PSID6]

95 mm my bad

 

[novaderrik]

the bushings probably have a 1/2" hole, which is why the 12mm bolt fits sloppy.
i'd be calling the maker of the arms and asking them a series of "wtf?" kinds of questions..

 

[PSID6]

You will have to drill out the rear end mounting holes to half-inch and also the mounting points on the frame

 

[HighMileage]

the bushings probably have a 1/2" hole, which is why the 12mm bolt fits sloppy.
i'd be calling the maker of the arms and asking them a series of "wtf?" kinds of questions..

I tried the bolts in the factory arm bushings. They are just as sloppy. I guess it's ok to have lots of slop. There is certainly no way for them to seize up in the bushings.

If the bolt is not tightened down really well,there's certainly going to be some thunking and wear going on back there when the brakes are applied,then when the go-pedal is hit. It's gonna be banging back and forth on the bolt.

I guess it's just the pinching effect of the bolt and flanges on the mounts,holding the outer edge of the cylinder (whatever it is) in the bushing that takes all the force.


PSID16.. The bolts I wanted to upsize were the swaybar to arm bolts. 7/16 worked nicely with just a little reaming from a rat-tail file. I don't think I'll be upsizing the arm mount holes. The exhaust is in the way of the forwardmost hole. No way I'm taking the exhaust down. It's all welded together. Drawing the line there!

Thanks everyone for your input. I'm up on jackstands until the arm bolt kit comes.

Earl... The front upper a-arms are coming,too! Tubular with bushings and ball joints already in. Ugh! I forgot to order the dash bezel clip!!

 

[earlbrown]

Think of living with the missing bezel clip as a sacrifice to Murphy.... In hopes he'll leave the rest of the repairs alone