Removing the floor pan. Need advice

[blackgn1]

I'm in the process of removing the rusty floor pan. It has been straight forward except Ineed advive on how to seperate it up front in the gas pedal area. I haven't got up to that area but I didn't see any spot welds up there. It was getting dark so I didn't look real hard. There was to stong sealant there though.

 

[we4Mateo]

.... There was to stong sealant there though.

Sounds like you were applying some sealant without a mask! JK, sorry I'm no help.

 

[blackgn1]

Oooopppssss! I should have said there is some strong sealant in the front area for the floor pan. Under the dash.

 

[RUDE DOG]

You have to get to the flange in the front under the firewall area. Heres a pic of the area im talking about mared in red circles

 

[RUDE DOG]

I used the nibbler on my air hammer and went at it

 

[blackgn1]

This is looking like a huge job. The selt belt mounting flanges look like mission impossible. The whole pan needs replacing. Tunnel has rust also.

 

[coach]

Cut it out and fab your own. But a tunnel from Art Morrison and flat sheet metal. Add reinforcements under where needed. Are you adding a cage

 

[RUDE DOG]

As you can see in the third pic I posted, I used an airchisel with the attachment for cutting through sheetmetal, so I cut it as close as possible to the end of flange, then finished removing left over floor pieces by cutting spot welds with a grinder or spot weld cutter. You probably still have the body on car it makes it a little more difficult but it can be done.

 

[chasmat2316]

I just replaced my entire floor pan this winter, I got a one piece pan from g-body parts. It's a big job to change a pan ! Take your time!

 

[Chuck Leeper]

Have done several... Not all TR's, tho.
Depending on the body design, I x brace in the doors, A to B pillars, etc, to reduce body flex. ESPECIALLY, if you are going to use a roto...
The body comes off the frame for this to be easier to do. [Now is the time to repair, clean, paint at least the bottom.]
Once the frame is out, everything is level and well supported, the plasma torch comes out. We cut as close to the pinch welds in all areas to be removed. This allows for spot weld grinding, removal of the "scraps".
The new pan is prepped by cleaning the pinch weld flanges, cleaning and scuffing the pan surfaces, prime/paint as desired. Remember there's a difference between REAL E-coat, and cheapo black primer, when you do the prep. We then use a hand punch to punch spot weld holes in the pan flanges.
The frame has all the work done to it, B4 reinstalling.
The new pan is then mounted, [w/ new bushings], on the frame, slid under the body, level/squared. [Body HAS to be level and square, too.] When you see the pinch weld flanges fitting correctly, U are pretty much GTG.
I use small, self drilling screws, to attach the pan to the body pinch weld flanges.
Once it is all measured twice, checked 4 times, I spot weld some of the easy to get to weld holes.
Not a bad idea to check door fit, B4 final welding. [Remember, there are new body mounts involved.]
I use weld thru primer, and a drill bit that matches the spot weld hole punch. The drill has been ground flat, so it will remove the weld thru primer for a cleaner weld. [Ya, I know anal, ain't it??!]
If the toe board is rusty above the joint, install the new floor, then replace the toe area.
I skip weld the toe board joint from the inside.
Seam seal all the joints..[Use paintable sealer]

Main tool list:
Plasma cutter
110V MIG w/ .023 wire.
Makita drill.
Cut off grinder. [Use on most of the spot welds.]

One last thing........I always buy the pan w/ the inner rockers and braces already installed. U will be glad you did!
Spot weld cutter. Don't waste $$ on the cheapos!
A large supply of Vicegrip clamps of various configs.