So here's an update on how my car runs at the track

[scojack_2001]

Thanks. Did it say specifically for turbo Buicks to advance it?

One thing I did want to point out, is when racing it, it does seem as some of you have said, the car noses over at the top of the gear. In fact (and I know this is a bad thing) but I think (before I knew better) when I ran my best pass, I actually had it in OD so it hit 4th before the traps.

In fact, this thing does pull like a mule well into the 4k rpm range. Reviewing my powerlogger files I've gotten into the 5k rpm range.

Another thing I have considered trying...and I don't know if this would help...I have read most of you run a 28 inch tall tire at the strip...my rear tires are 26's. I've wondered if I threw a 28" tall tire on if it would perhaps keep the engine in it's power band a little longer and maybe would result in a better time? Anyone going to KCIR tomorrow want to bring some 275/60's?

I'll definitely check out the cam and valve train as suggested, but I really am starting to wonder if since the cam was advanced 4 degrees, if it's just running out of steam earlier than it would if it were installed straight up.

Razor I'm going to look into the air filter as you suggested.

All I know, on my GN; the 28s helped alot. At the beginning of the season, my car was running pretty consistently in the 11.7 range on a 26" tire. But the trap speed always seemed low, it was always around 113-114. I put some 275/60/15 MT DRs on it and the first pass next time out was a 11.42 at 117mph. Im assuming i still have a original untouched longblock ( except for springs & a chain), so I would drive way past the stock cam when I ran it. I would trap at 55-5600rpm on the 26s.

So I'd try a set of 28s and see what happens.

how do you figure your powerband stops at 5k?

Mine used to do that, you can drive past the cam and go out of its powerband.

Actually I think I am going to try to go to the one next Sat, the 26th.



I don't know, I am going off of speculation based off of the butt dyno.



They're stock casting heads, but I don't know if they've been ported or anything like that.

Im running almost 30psi through my stock heads. As long as it doesn't detonate it will be okay. My TT chip is burned for 23-25psi.

 

["Turbo-T"]

Hey everyone....a co worker who I happened to have at the track with me that day made a film of my runs....the 2nd pass was the best, the 3rd was the worst, the 5th was the 2nd worst. They were the worst because I lost traction off the line.

It looks like after I launch out of the hole the M/T ET street drag radials that I had set at 20 psi (like so many of you have recommended) actually "squeak"......hhhmmm......

Anyways please take a look at my video....it corresponds with the time slips listed.

Six Runs in a Regal at KCIR - YouTube

 

[kidglok]

why is the water so close to the line?

 

["Turbo-T"]

I don't know ask the track owners...well on second thought they're closing down the track after this week, so I guess it doesn't matter anymore.

 

[hiboom]

saturday last race ever racers race for free spectaters free also.kcir

 

[Razor]

Tried running it without the airfilter?
Tried locking the converter?
Is the boost steady all the way down the track?
Tried running it uncapped?

 

[jasjamz]

I was talking to a guy about your car and he suggest you run more boost and timing. Like 30-32 psi and for timing try 25* across the board first. If that works, I suggest 27* range in 1st & 2nd and 24-26 in 3rd. A/F 10.7 and alky on 7.

 

[jasjamz]

Friends GN log

Just to show you I practice what I preach... I kept adding boost and timing until I reached his ET goal. only took 5 runs.

Stock long block parts with a 206/206 flat tappet rebuild by ANS Performance in 2006. 600 mile on it since then. Took it to the track this summer. TE-6152 Pump gas and alky, Gen II, HR parts bar, AEM wideband, Precision lock up(unlocked), trapped 11.85@112 set up by Dennis@ Pro-trac Racing. I think it needs valve springs so I have LT1's wating to go on. He has also upgraded to the 6262 CEA/CEA. His target boost level is 25psi. (I keep forgetting that. I break it, I fix it guarantee though...) I am hoping we get results on the turbo upgrade before the tracks close up.

 

[kidglok]

i kno every cars different, but i ran 20* timing across the board and 23psi to get whats in my sig.


btw- thats with 11.0 a/f and shifting at almost 6k

 

[bison]

i kno every cars different, but i ran 20* timing across the board and 23psi to get whats in my sig.


btw- thats with 11.0 a/f and shifting at almost 6k

You are probably running a true 60-1 with the 76 trim ex wheel and you have a better converter than most. At 26-28psi/22* you probably would have ran 10.6-10.7 with a 1.5 60'. There is about 100whp difference possible between the two. Your car would probably go faster if you shifted around 5600 also.

 

[kidglok]

You are probably running a true 60-1 with the 76 trim ex wheel and you have a better converter than most. At 26-28psi/22* you probably would have ran 10.6-10.7 with a 1.5 60'. There is about 100whp difference possible between the two. Your car would probably go faster if you shifted around 5600 also.

its a stage 5 wheel, which is a 67 i think. im working on the shift points i was trying for 56-5800 but we tried a cz valve body with added weight to the governor and it didnt work out lol

 

[bison]

its a stage 5 wheel, which is a 67 i think. im working on the shift points i was trying for 56-5800 but we tried a cz valve body with added weight to the governor and it didnt work out lol

The stage 5 is aka T350 and has one less blade than a typical older turbine. It was the beginning of the Garrett GT stuff. A lot of import turbos had the 60-1 compressor with a t350. It flows less than a p trim but a lot better than the stage 3 that most run in the TE60.

 

[QUIP'6']

Hey everyone....a co worker who I happened to have at the track with me that day made a film of my runs....the 2nd pass was the best, the 3rd was the worst, the 5th was the 2nd worst. They were the worst because I lost traction off the line.

It looks like after I launch out of the hole the M/T ET street drag radials that I had set at 20 psi (like so many of you have recommended) actually "squeak"......hhhmmm......

Anyways please take a look at my video....it corresponds with the time slips listed.

Six Runs in a Regal at KCIR - YouTube

nice videos. you have someting definetly wrong with setup or tune you are over a second than where you should be. i ran 11.6 with 23psi and a ta49 stock motor.

 

["Turbo-T"]

Razor, per Dusty at PTC I can't or am not supposed to lock up the converter. But I will try ditching the air filter and uncapping the dump. We'll see...if I end up going to the track...having some knee pain this morning, we'll see how I feel tomorrow. The boost does show a little bit of spiking in the PL files but other than that it's staying well in the 20 + psi range for most of the run.

Quip, yeah that's what everyone says but I have yet to figure out if I'm running out of cam since it's advanced 4 degrees and I'm only running a 26 inch tall tire or if it's valve train related or what. The car does pull well from idle well into mid range. I'm getting lots of input, gotta narrow it down. I may just end up throwing it on the dyno since the local track is shutting down forever after tomorrow.

 

["Turbo-T"]

Razor, per Dusty at PTC I can't or am not supposed to lock up the converter. But I will try ditching the air filter and uncapping the dump. We'll see...if I end up going to the track...having some knee pain this morning, we'll see how I feel tomorrow. The boost does show a little bit of spiking in the PL files but other than that it's staying well in the 20 + psi range for most of the run.

Quip, yeah that's what everyone says but I have yet to figure out if I'm running out of cam since it's advanced 4 degrees and I'm only running a 26 inch tall tire or if it's valve train related or what. The car does pull well from idle well into mid range. I'm getting lots of input, gotta narrow it down. I may just end up throwing it on the dyno since the local track is shutting down forever after tomorrow.

 

[84BuickGNYorkPA]

I never advance my cam 4 degrees whenever I changed them ....

Chuck

 

[bison]

Some interesting posts here. The cam in the engine I was hammering last summer was advanced between 5 and 6*. Damn I probably could have made another 50whp if I installed it at zero

 

[we4Mateo]

Some interesting posts here. The cam in the engine I was hammering last summer was advanced between 5 and 6*. Damn I probably could have made another 50whp if I installed it at zero

Depends on the setup. Stockish setups seem to like a straight up cam from my limited experience. I know a 28" tire would help this guy though. Stockish cars make more torque than hp so get it loaded down. A new converter that you can lock would help a lot too but maybe tires will be enough for now... I only run a 27.2" tire (255/60/15) and even that helps a lot. I do what I can to keep my car at 5k rpm or less and it likes it. Every car is different I realize though.

 

[fubar2.5]

Last thing to decide on in Intake Centerline (ICL). It is commonly accepted that if you've chosen the right cam it will make the most power advanced 4 degrees. This is a misnomer because many cams are considered "straight up" at 4 degrees advance. In fact rarely is the cam ground advanced or retarded from that 4 degree point. When most people refer to advancing or retarding the cam, they are speaking in relation to this point. An advanced cam will behave as a smaller cam would have on the same motor and a retarded cam will behave as a larger cam would have on the same motor. This is a great tuning tool for the end user, because it can be manipulated with the timing set. There are some things to be conscious of though. Too much advance can have a profound effect on your exhaust potential as well as your piston to valve clearance on the intake valve. Too much retard and brake vacuum and idle quality are gone. Generally, have your cam ground standard (4 degrees advance) and then leave the ability to manipulate it later with your timing set. ICL varies with LSA. 4 degrees advanced on a 114 LSA would result in a 110 ICL. I've dealt with a lot of cam grinders, and their standards can be different, so it is best to ask your cam grinder exactly what the ICL will be ground to so you can get it the way you want. One of the tricks to drive up the power band on an LS1 is to grind the cam retarded, which could just be accomplished with the timing set but allows really big durations without interfering with the pistons which allows those monster heads to breath.

 

[we4Mateo]

Last thing to decide on in Intake Centerline (ICL). It is commonly accepted that if you've chosen the right cam it will make the most power advanced 4 degrees. This is a misnomer because many cams are considered "straight up" at 4 degrees advance. In fact rarely is the cam ground advanced or retarded from that 4 degree point. When most people refer to advancing or retarding the cam, they are speaking in relation to this point. An advanced cam will behave as a smaller cam would have on the same motor and a retarded cam will behave as a larger cam would have on the same motor. This is a great tuning tool for the end user, because it can be manipulated with the timing set. There are some things to be conscious of though. Too much advance can have a profound effect on your exhaust potential as well as your piston to valve clearance on the intake valve. Too much retard and brake vacuum and idle quality are gone. Generally, have your cam ground standard (4 degrees advance) and then leave the ability to manipulate it later with your timing set. ICL varies with LSA. 4 degrees advanced on a 114 LSA would result in a 110 ICL. I've dealt with a lot of cam grinders, and their standards can be different, so it is best to ask your cam grinder exactly what the ICL will be ground to so you can get it the way you want. One of the tricks to drive up the power band on an LS1 is to grind the cam retarded, which could just be accomplished with the timing set but allows really big durations without interfering with the pistons which allows those monster heads to breath.

That's one of the better explanations I've read. Makes sense. Thank you.