Some questions!

[WH1_T-Type]

Here is what I know about my turbo;

T3T4E
60-1 wheel
stage 5 wheel
.63 A/R

Goals; I'm looking to set up the car to be capable of running low 11's BUT I plan on tuning it too run 12's. I currently have 009 injectors.

Questions:

1) What do all those numbers break down to? Specifically the .63 A/R? I think I understand the stage 5 wheel part...thought not positive.

2) what is the right convertor for it? It looks like I need one that stalls around 3200? If so, which one?

3) am I under injected? I think I may need some larger injectors.

4) in my sig I am currently referring to my turbo as a T60, would this be accurate?

Sorry for all the questions, but I am a slow learner! Been reading as much info as I can on the things, but it just seems really confusing!

 

[WH1_T-Type]

ttt

 

[street6]

.63 A/R is the size of the exhaust housing.

IMO 42.5 (009) injectors are good to about mid 11's w/ alky, so without alky (which would supplement your fuel) I would go with 60's (especially if your looking for low 11's).

I can't comment on the converter as I'm not too familiar with that turbo. Is the 60-1 turbo a 60mm compressor wheel with a 76mm turbine? (not sure)

 

[WH1_T-Type]

Thank you for your answers!

I am intending to go with alcohol in the near future.

Is a higher or lower number better for the exhaust housing? I'm betting higher for increased flow...but I'm not sure.

Thanks again!

 

[Boost231]

higher # will get you more top end but less low end spool

 

[WH1_T-Type]

Will having the right torque converter help right now? Right now I'm running a stock one.

 

[street6]

having the right torque converter will ALWAYS help. Check with one of the board converter pro's like Dusty (PTC) for assistance with converter application.

 

[Dusty Bradford]

Is it a stock cam motor?

A tight 10" would work. 2800 if you have a larger cam and springs, 2400 if you have a stock cam.

 

[RUQWKNF]

Going by your numbers,
T3T4E
60-1 wheel
stage 5 wheel
.63 A/R

That would be the specs for one of our older PT52 turbos.

T3T4E, well, T3T4 would be the turbo model style, or bearing housing style.
E would mean a TO4E style compressor cover. 3" inlet, 2" discharge.
60-1 wheel, is the 60mm compressor wheel that was commonly used on various turbo models over the years.
Stage 5 wheel is our T-350 turbine wheel.
.63 A/R is the A/R of the turbine housing.

If indeed that is a PT52 turbo, it liked a converter that would stall to around 3200 with the older series torque converters as the T-350 turbine wheel needed alot more stall than a bone stock D5 converter could produce. Some have been happy with a restalled D5, but it's very hard to get a restalled D5 to produced neck snapping spool up from a punch.

The TE-60 turbo, uses the same compressor wheel, but has a smaller turbine wheel.

The 009 injectors do have enough umph to push a full weight Buick into the 11's. But you will need a chip that can give you fine tuning capabilities, especially with regards to injector duty cycle. Namely a Turbo Tweak chip.

Personally, if it were me, I would contact Dusty for a good PTC converter. (He is the user that posted just above my post.) One that would be loose down low and tight up top. Best of both worlds. And go lock up if it's primarily a street driven car. But to answer your question, yes, a converter swap would make a world of difference with your car.

For a street car that's just bolt ons and no heads or cam, the .63 A/R turbine housing is ideal. It's when you start really pushing a stock motor with everything done to it that it's advisable to choose the .85 A/R turbine housing.

street6
The 60-1 turbo used the same compressor wheel, but had a 76 "P-trim" turbine wheel, which is 2 sizes larger than the Stage 5 wheel. It also typically used a Garrett TO4S compressor cover as well. 4" inlet, 2.5" discharge. It needed a lot more stall than the PT52 did.
Hope some of this helps.

Patrick

 

[WH1_T-Type]

Thank you!! Great info.

When refering to a 'PT52' is there some way I can tell? I know it is a Turbonetics turbo and they are the ones that I got the info above by running my serial number that I found on the turbo itself.

 

[RUQWKNF]

If it had a T-netics serial number on it, then it is probably their equivalent of a PT52.

A true Precision PT52 turbo, would have the numbers engraved on the compressor cover discharge, typically underneath the bottom of the discharge and covered by the intercooler hose. Typically would say either PT52 or 5252E in engravers pen markings.

If you wanted to measure each wheel, with regards to inducer and exducer, here's the numbers.

PT52's wheel specs.
Compressor wheel 2.320" Inducer, 3.000" Exducer
Turbine wheel 2.795" Inducer, 2.437" Exducer

You can use this picture to see exactly where to measure, to determine inducer and exducer of each wheel.

Hope this helps.

Patrick

 

[WH1_T-Type]

Is there a reason that you have recommended a 3200 and Dusty has recommended a 2400? Or am I reading the recommendations wrong?

 

[Dusty Bradford]

Is there a reason that you have recommended a 3200 and Dusty has recommended a 2400? Or am I reading the recommendations wrong?

Years ago, lots of companies rated their converters at 5# of boost, because that's about the same stall # you will see when the same converter is put behind a small block V8. I don't do that. I rate them at 0# for several reasons so the 2400 rating, for example, would be around 2800 or so at 5# of boost. Guys are spooling 67's with the 2800. We also have to forget about the 12" converters that some say are 3000 stall. Guys think they have a 3000 stall but in reality it's around 2000-2200.

There is much more to picking the correct turbo and converter for an engine. The camshaft/rpm range of the engine must match the turbo and converter if you want everything working well. Too large of a turbo will kill the entire combination. The reason behind that is......it takes more stall to spool a larger turbo. As you go up in stall speed, the engine must turn more rpm to make up for it.

A 60-61mm is as big as I would go with a stock head, stock cam car. They have an rpm range of 5000-5200 so you have to keep the rev's low. The only way to do that is with a tight converter or one that can be locked at WOT. The 2400 will work because the small cam makes enough steam down low to spool the turbo. The 2800 would be my choice for a car that sees more track time.

 

[RUQWKNF]

Excellent explanation Dusty. Thank you for that tid bit.

Patrick

 

[bison]

6-42.5lb/hr injectors with a single nozzle M15 alky injection will supply enough fuel to go mid-high 10's. Low 11's with no alky and 3600lbs.