"Spring Cleaning" Sad Days....

[GW2]

i find my trans doesnt do the second to third shift in good time either, i start loosing power before it shift, significantly out of the powerband it seems. and mine wasnt like that until my fluid was changed either.

 

[realspartan]

Take Note

Hi,

Always use an original AC delco filter kit and AC delco fluid. Nothing else especially with respect to the filter. I would also add an AC delco transmission conditioner as well for the seals.

In 2004 I changed the transmission fluid in my 2003 Jeep Grand Cherokee with Amsoil ATF that was ATF+4 compliant. After servicing the transmission it would not engage in reverse to back out of the garage. Everthing was done correctly and an original Mopar transmission filter kit was used from the dealer. Drive did not work either; no gears would engage.

About a half hour later, I was lucky to locate some Mopar ATF+4 from a local aoto parts store. The transmission was drained again with my mechanic and everything was verified with no problems found. The transmission was then filled with Mopar ATF+4, Jeep was started and transmission engaged in reverse and all other gears.

It was unbelievable but true. My mechanic has been in the business for over 20 years and had never seen anything like this. We still talk about it today. I contacted Amsoil at the time but they had no answers.

In my opinion, OEM filters should be used at all times especially for transmissions. As for the fluids all OEM in my Jeep, all OEM in my BMW, all Amsoil in my Cadillac and all ACdelco in my Grand National. I always use OEM filters for everything. As for engine oil I use BMW synthetic 5W-30 or Castrol Syntev 0W-30 with a bottle of EOS or ZDDP for the Caddy and the GN only.


Regards,
Realspartan

 

[Nick Micale]

I have heard many people use Type F for firmer shifts. I would never use it. Sure you get firmer shifts but it has less lubricants too so you lose service life. Now if its just a race car and not driven much on the streets then fine, but if its a street car or dd then i would use Dex III or the new Dex VI im gonna try the next flush.

We have had nothing but problems with type F in our desert heat, and have seen it turn almost black with one trip to the track.

Street or strip trans, Dex VI has proven to be the best yet. Heat is what kills the fluid and soft parts in a hurry, but Dex VI can withstand heat better than most.

Yes, we have tried the trick racing fluids for twice the $$, but they did NOT out perform Dex VI.

My personal experience was to change trans fluid a few times a season. Last few seasons, the DEX VI looks like new after 9-10 months of hard use.

 

[monteperformanc]

Do you know something that I don't about fluid? Type F fluid is for Ford vehicles. Our cars should use Dex III or more commonly known now as "Dex/Merc" Pretty sure I'm right on this but always willing to learn!

The "spring cleaning" guide said it was okay to use type F. Here is what it says

Five or six quarts of Automatic Transmission Fluid. I recommend Type F fluid for heavy duty use, since it actually will make the transmission shift a little firmer. Dexron III can be used for purely street driven cars. If you do choose to use Type F fluid, don't worry about it mixing with Dexron III that might be in the transmission. It won't cause any problems, and the Dexron III will eventually be flushed out as you continue to change the fluid with Type F.

So I followed the advice of the builder who did my last transmission, a 700-R4, which was to flush out all of the fluid. I disconnected the transmission line after the radiator cooler, and directed the fluid into a clean 5 gallon bucket. I ran the car for a couple minutes to pump out some fluid. Dropped the pan, checked the filter, and it was still installed properly as far as I can tell.. Put the pan back on, filled it up with fluid, ran it a little more. I pumped about 14 quarts of new Dex/Merc fluid through, then dropped the pan again and put in a new filter. I could not find an A/C Delco at any local stores, so I put in a new Hastings filter. I checked to make sure there were no old o-rings up in there. Then hooked the lines back up and filled it up with new fluid.

Took the car out and it is the same as before, actually probably a little worse. Any more than part-throttle and it basically slips all the way through 2nd gear now.

Also, the fluid I took out looked really clean. Did not see any particles, or sediment of any kind.

So I guess I have no other option but to have the unit rebuilt now. It's really a bummer because it shifted SO good up until the other night. Even after I did the first fluid change, for about 25 miles it was shifting firm.

I was just about to start doing a few mods to the car (its all stock). My whole budget is going to be blown by this transmission debacle.

 

[monteperformanc]

One other question, when you put the transmission filter in, do you push it all the way up? Or is it better to have it lower near the bottom of the pan? It does not seem to "lock" into any one position.

 

[SGRIM]

The fluid was right at the full mark the day after I changed it. When I checked it last night, it looked over-full, like almost an inch past the full mark.

?

You have to get the fluid HOT before checking the level. It seems you have overfilled it.

To much is worse than not enough in this case...

How hot did the fluid get before reading that far above full? If it wasn't completely hot when you got the over reading it will rise more as it gets hotter to optimum operating temp...

 

[Junior Samples]

Call Dave Husek, He's in Long Island... bring cash

 

[TurboBob]

I still think that a pressure gauge will tell the tale.

And, yes, you have to check the fluid level with the engine + trans hot and running in park on a level surface. (at least a 10 minute drive)

If you didn't scorch the frictions, it may be a relatively easy repair.

But, I have heard good things about Husek's work.

Bob

 

[Junior Samples]

I still think that a pressure gauge will tell the tale.

And, yes, you have to check the fluid level with the engine + trans hot and running in park on a level surface. (at least a 10 minute drive)

If you didn't scorch the frictions, it may be a relatively easy repair.

But, I have heard good things about Husek's work.

Bob

Bob, He built mine, Love it.

 

[fmster]

One other question, when you put the transmission filter in, do you push it all the way up? Or is it better to have it lower near the bottom of the pan? It does not seem to "lock" into any one position.

YOU Must push the filter all the way up until you get a full seal.

 

[V6POWER]

How did you remove the original o'ring? If you used a screwdriver to pry it out you may have scratched the tube and it won't seal.

Also, the tab to the rear of the filter goes BETWEEN the valve body and filter. The tab is not designed to hold the filter up and OUT of the pan. The tab is to keep the filter pushed down into the pan and fluid.