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Started another nitrous system...

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yullose

Certified Gun Nut
Joined
Apr 9, 2005
Messages
1,477
This will be my 3rd turbo Buick with nitrous. ;)

I had a pair of race solenoids laying around, so I figured I'd get them mounted and wired awhile.
I still need to dig up a bottle, line and fogger nozzle, but otherwise it won't be long before it's operational. :cool:

DSC07546a.jpg
 
Give us some feed back #'s gained in 60ft an 1/4 when finished:cool:

35 shot ? 75 ?
 
Give us some feed back #'s gained in 60ft an 1/4 when finished:cool:

35 shot ? 75 ?

I've had pretty good luck with 42f/46n jetting thru a single fogger nozzle. Last time I had a Buick on the dyno with that jetting, I saw an extra 102hp at the rear wheels. It went from 396hp to 498hp. :D

The car also picked up a solid second in the 1/4 mile.

It was running 12.20's @ 112 without it... and went 11.15 @ 121 on the juice, leaving from a dead idle. :cool:
 
Nitrous rocks. I use a cheapo sniper kit with 125 hp jetting (don't know the numbers off hand) triggered by the window switch function on my gen II translator. On at 2800 rpm and WOT and off at 15 psi or so.
I have not used it on my new combo since wheel spin is already a problem on the street. With the stock long block combo however, it was pure insanity. I could do John Force burnouts from 45 mph. The awesome thing is being able to get a killer 60 foot off idle. I cut 1.6s with a very conservative tune on the nitrous. I only really had a couple of track runs with it so I was never able to completely dial it in at the track.
I'm confident that with the new combo and some more tuning I can get some 1.5s or better right off the footbrake using n2o

One thing though, I personally noticed a smaller hit for the first run after opening a closed bottle. I think a purge may be a good idea for complete consistency, especially to spool the turbo.
 
NITROUS! You guys are killer.
I agree on the purge solenoid. Especially if the bottle is clear back in the trunk.
 
I've been fooling with nitrous for about 20 years now...

I've never used an external purge system... and I'll tell you why...

Purging the nitrous line does nothing to help get fresh fuel to the fuel solenoid... and may even create a lean condition at initial launch.

What I've always done is this...

I run a full throttle microswitch AND a button inside the car for manual activation.

After my burnout I will roll up a little ways and pop the car into neutral. I'll bring the motor up to approx 2500-3000rpm and tap the manual button a few times until the motor sounds crisp and responsive... (purging into the motor.)

This purges BOTH the nitrous and fuel solenoids at the same time.

I'm not saying my way is any better way of doing it than anyone elses... just saying that is my routine and I've been doing it that way for 20 years without a problem. :D

Old habits are hard to break. ;)
 
That's why I run the fuel line to the fuel solenoid on past it and back to a point at the fuel rail. Fuel is then constantly flushing by the fuel solenoid and purging any trapped air. Then all's to worry about is purging the nitrous line.
I've seen others purge into the motor, but it is not recommended.
 
I've been fooling with nitrous for about 20 years now...

I've never used an external purge system... and I'll tell you why...

Purging the nitrous line does nothing to help get fresh fuel to the fuel solenoid... and may even create a lean condition at initial launch.

What I've always done is this...

I run a full throttle microswitch AND a button inside the car for manual activation.

After my burnout I will roll up a little ways and pop the car into neutral. I'll bring the motor up to approx 2500-3000rpm and tap the manual button a few times until the motor sounds crisp and responsive... (purging into the motor.)

This purges BOTH the nitrous and fuel solenoids at the same time.

I'm not saying my way is any better way of doing it than anyone elses... just saying that is my routine and I've been doing it that way for 20 years without a problem. :D

Old habits are hard to break. ;)

That's an interesting angle I hadn't thought. Thanks for the info, I'll keep that in mind.
 
That's why I run the fuel line to the fuel solenoid on past it and back to a point at the fuel rail. Fuel is then constantly flushing by the fuel solenoid and purging any trapped air. Then all's to worry about is purging the nitrous line.
I've seen others purge into the motor, but it is not recommended.


I've always run a bypass at the fuel solenoid on my carb'd systems, running it thru a small fogger jet as a restriction and returning to the cell. That will keep fresh fuel in the line and purge any aeration or air bubbles from the line. It also help stabilize the fuel pressure and prevents pressure creep on the gage.

Here's a system I did on my brothers Camaro...
DSC062012.jpg


And another system I put on his Chevelle...

Both cars are 9.90-10.0 cars WITHOUT the nitrous. :cool:
DSC062002.jpg
 
How close are your fuel lines to the back of the ALT stud? Make sure they dont touch it :eek: , I burnt a little hole in mine one time :rolleyes: .
 
I was pretty concerned about exactly that issue when I did the plumbing.

I originally had it arranged with the FP transducer and gage adapter hanging off the end of the fuel rail... but that moved the 90 degree hose end too far forward to clear the pos stud on the alt.

Instead, I moved the gage port and transducer over to the fenderwell next to the FP regulator...

See... Plenty of room now. :D

DSC075852.jpg
 
Just to complete the thread, I just thought I'd put the finished pics in here...
Some have already seen them anyway in other threads. ;)

DSC076712.jpg


DSC076722.jpg


DSC076732.jpg
 
yullose, I think that is the most onesided engine bay I have ever seen.


I never thought of it like that... but yeah, it sorta looks that way huh ? :D

I guess that explains why it's such a pleasure to work on the passenger side of the motor. ;)
 
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