You can type here any text you want

Steel Shim Headgaskets - Vent Hole?

Welcome!

By registering with us, you'll be able to discuss, share and private message with other members of our community.

SignUp Now!

Spooling

Member
Joined
May 24, 2001
Messages
271
Guys - curious if this is a "vent" hole for steam - as the holes in the block and the head are substantially larger.

I am curious if I should "open" these holes larger - as I will be stacking these "headgaskets" and using some of the JC "Gorilla Snot" smeared all over everything.

I am thinking that this "Special Sauce" may inhibit the proper function of these holes in the headgaskets (vents???)

Appreciate all recommendations...
 
Forgot to add something:

IMG-20121215-00039.jpg
 
Leave them alone. It's not a "steam" hole but a restiction to keep the coolant flow in the right location.
 
Is it possible that this "restriction" could become clogged with the application of the gorilla snot - or should I just be aware of this region in particular - and hence not apply this sauce so liberally in this region of the "coolant restriction" holes of the headgasket/block/heads?
 
Here's a pic of an RJC shim with sealant applied. No need to go overboard with the sealant, a thin, even coat is all that's required.
 

Attachments

  • IMAG0003.jpg
    IMAG0003.jpg
    1.4 MB · Views: 136
Scott - did you use a roller or something similiar in nature to apply that?

Last time I used this set-up I just put a rubber glove on and went-at-it using the "finger smear the sauce" technique.

I will say that this system certainly works!!!
 
Forgot to ask - last time I used this set-up with ARP Head Bolts on Iron Heads - I torqued the heads using ARP Moly Lube to 75 ft-lbs.

What's the recommended torque spec for Iron Heads with ARP Head Bolts using ARP Moly Lube using this stacked steel shim headgasket set-up?

Thanks !!!
 
I open them up personally.

I also put a LOT more sealant than that and give it a couple of torque cycles to squish out the extra.

If its the SGS4000, you dont need a glove. If its the 1200, dont try it without it.
 
Scott - did you use a roller or something similiar in nature to apply that?

Last time I used this set-up I just put a rubber glove on and went-at-it using the "finger smear the sauce" technique.

I will say that this system certainly works!!!

Yes. Foam roller
 
I open them up personally.

I also put a LOT more sealant than that and give it a couple of torque cycles to squish out the extra.

If its the SGS4000, you dont need a glove. If its the 1200, dont try it without it.
i opened them to a 1/4 inch when i did them,and had no issues, X2 on the foam roller,thats what i used also. the only reason i had to take my heads off was lower end trouble in the motor. switched the heads to another motor and it was hard to get them off
 
Torque Specification = ?

JC - Why do you state to not use a glove when using the black sauce?

Many Thanks Everyone !!!!
 
Torque Specification = ?

JC - Why do you state to not use a glove when using the black sauce?

Many Thanks Everyone !!!!
torque specs 10 pount increments up to 60 then 5 pound increments to 85.
The new black sauce is not acidic like the old sauce so gloves are optional with the new stuff but mandatory on the old stuff.
 
Torque Specification = ?

JC - Why do you state to not use a glove when using the black sauce?

Many Thanks Everyone !!!!

Because its not acidic like the person above said.

I experimented with about 30 sealants when I decided to look for something other than 1200. The reason I went away from the 1200 was I was only getting about a year out of it before water started seeping again. I was running a 4.1 stock block that was already 30 over so there wasnt much there to seal it, thus how I got looking for this sealant. When I want back to a 3.8, people were running single shims with high temp silver paint on them as a water sealant. I went to doubles with that sealant and it worked like a champ.

I tried all kinds of stuff and I was talking to a rep from GE and told him what I was doing with this stuff and he suggested the 4000 that I believe Jason includes with the kit now. I used some on a rear end cover one time and literally had to chisel it off.

I take a different approach to putting it on tho. I use my finger and put it on pretty thick, put a gasket down and put down another layer then the gasket, then another layer. Once the head is on, Ill torque it down in stages and once you get to your final torque values, wait about 30 minutes and then come back retorque it. Then before the rockers go on, Ill torque it one more time. I usually try to wait till overnight for this.

This sealant is fantastic on copper head gaskets too, if anyone uses those these days. I used them on my 4.1.

If youre wondering what this stuff was originally intended for, its what they use for glueing windows in skyscrapers.

You know whats kind of funny? Know how people found out what this sealant was? I used to sell it and went to painstaking lengths to make it unidentifiable. Id spray each tube down with paint remover and scrub all the writing off the tube. Unfortunately there was a bar code that couldnt be removed without damaging the tube. The paint remover wouldnt touch it. A guy in St Pete local to me when I lived in Florida took a tube and just started calling as many people as he could that made this kind of stuff until someone at GE gave him the part number. Once that happened, he posted it on here and that was that. Cat was out of the bag. The site has crashed since then but once information is out, you cant put it back in the bottle.
 
is there anything that removes it, easily? besides scraping and chiseling, any chemicals?
thanks
 
Scraping and acetone. Once you break the seal on that stuff, it comes off pretty easy. The 4000 stays pliable even when its cured.
 
Scraping and acetone.

Hence, unless you want your hands to be subjected to a "scraping/acetone bath" - rubber gloves are probably best utilized.

I always thought the "embossed" or "raised" region of the headgasket and especially with reference to the "Fire Ring" was to face the "Head" side (UP), rather than down towards the deck surface of the block....

Is it safe to assume that this is not correct - especially with reference to the following photo - which shows the headgasket stamped with the word "TOP" hence assuming that "TOP" really means "UP" - which places the "raised" region of the headgaskets facing down against the deck surface of the block.

And lastly, just for the record, I don't live in St. Pete, I live in Clearwater and I happened to be ***a purchaser*** of a few of those "mystery" tubes of "Gorilla Snot" many-many years ago. Indeed the tubes of "black snot" were wiped clean of any ledgible identifying markings on them with acetone or lacquer thinner - except for one tube which clearly displayed the P/N # SSG4000 in the corner of the tube. One simple internet search yielded a product designed for "Waterproofing"... With a membership on this BB dating back to ~ 2001 and still with a Post Count of <100 - I can honestly state that I never shared such part number on TB.com via a posting on this BB. The now defunct gnttype.org mailserver list - well that was entirely possible - but as of now, who gives 2 _____'s because you can't even buy those headgaskets anylonger.

As always - Many Thanks for sharing your expertise !!!
 
Hence, unless you want your hands to be subjected to a "scraping/acetone bath" - rubber gloves are probably best utilized.

I always thought the "embossed" or "raised" region of the headgasket and especially with reference to the "Fire Ring" was to face the "Head" side (UP), rather than down towards the deck surface of the block....

Is it safe to assume that this is not correct - especially with reference to the following photo - which shows the headgasket stamped with the word "TOP" hence assuming that "TOP" really means "UP" - which places the "raised" region of the headgaskets facing down against the deck surface of the block.

And lastly, just for the record, I don't live in St. Pete, I live in Clearwater and I happened to be ***a purchaser*** of a few of those "mystery" tubes of "Gorilla Snot" many-many years ago. Indeed the tubes of "black snot" were wiped clean of any ledgible identifying markings on them with acetone or lacquer thinner - except for one tube which clearly displayed the P/N # SSG4000 in the corner of the tube. One simple internet search yielded a product designed for "Waterproofing"... With a membership on this BB dating back to ~ 2001 and still with a Post Count of <100 - I can honestly state that I never shared such part number on TB.com via a posting on this BB. The now defunct gnttype.org mailserver list - well that was entirely possible - but as of now, who gives 2 _____'s because you can't even buy those headgaskets anylonger.

As always - Many Thanks for sharing your expertise !!!

Top means up

I guess you must have amnesia. I know what you told me and Im not going to sit here and debate it with you. Its water under the bridge as far as Im concerned. I closed that chapter a long time ago. If I wanted to take a dig at you, I would have called you by name. I was just relating how it got out.
 
Back
Top