Stroker or stocker? Opinons please...

[GNBRETT]

I am in the process of building a low (10) second car and have all the supporting bolt-ons and suspension mods.

Currently I have Champion Iron heads with a stock intake port matched by Champion with Harland sharp roller rockers and a FT 206/210 roller. Bottom end has 16k miles it.

This is a STREET car with a 2004r. Not a race car. Has no cage and never will.

I have billet fuel rails on the way (If they ever arrive from Champion), new 70 TB/Precision plenum on the way, PTE sli, Rzr dual alky, TA 4 bolt headers, new 4in DP w/ ext. Tial WG being made, XFI w/ ITS, AMS 1000, Lonnie Diers Stage II tranny, PTC 9.5, 6765 DBB 4 bolt, Moser axles, Alum DS, Eaton posi, 3 in exhaust and a bounch of suspension mods and a dozen other things I cant remember right now. Car will be tuned properly and boost won't reach over 25 PSI on street.

My question is do I sell my long block and buy one that has a better bottom end then buy another long block or do I just drive the car as is and hope it stays together? Keeping the set up I have now is the ideal thing to do but if I grenade this motor then it aint worth sh!t. So should I sell the long block and get a few grand or so and just buy a long block or drive it the way it is?

 

[whitehot84]

Either build the bottom end or sell it and build one from scratch. I went stroker and forged everything. Sold the original. No roll cage here either. Bad ass street car.

 

[Grumpy]

set the original motor aside an KEEP IT !!!! .. may as well do a stroker.. Its a sign of the times

 

[86brick]

I personally think the stroker is probably a little overkill for a low 10 sec 109 considering how fast plenty of people have run with the stock cubes, but if you can swing the stroker it couldn't hurt! Just remember you said low 10's so what's gonna happen when you run that 10.0?? You will probably want more so might as well just build the stroker 109 and then when you get it in the 9's you will probably tell youself you need another Stage2 motor! :biggrin:

 

[GNBRETT]

then when you get it in the 9's you will probably tell youself you need another Stage2 motor! :biggrin:

Tell me about it Which is why it's gonna be a street car only. A couple of people have told me to keep the stock block but I would need to sell it to help pay for a stroker.

Anyone have an idea what my 16k long block would fetch?

 

[bison]

If your not going over 25psi and will never have a bar or cage you dont need to spend any $ on any stroker BS or any other engines. 25 psi will net mid 10's on a decent tune. If you ever think of going faster than 10.0 without a cage watch the Odell crash vid a couple times. Street car or not the pavement will do the same to your head at the strip or on the street.

 

[GNBRETT]

If your not going over 25psi and will never have a bar or cage you dont need to spend any $ on any stroker BS or any other engines. 25 psi will net mid 10's on a decent tune. If you ever think of going faster than 10.0 without a cage watch the Odell crash vid a couple times. Street car or not the pavement will do the same to your head at the strip or on the street.

I have no plans on rolling my car Btw, that pump worked out pretty well.

 

[jasjamz]

It would be nice to have a stroker but it is not needed. It would be nice if you could keep the 16k motor. Just build another long block with the good stuff. Steel crank, main caps, good rods and pistons, and a nice head and cam combo. You have the rest. That way if you ever hurt it you have a spare. I would say $2600 for your long block. Just my .02, not meant to offend you
$1400 heads and intake
$1200 short block.

 

[Nick Micale]

How about another approach to fit your need for a low 10 sec. street build.

We have a fresh 4.1 stroker short block with all forged internals, deep pan, modified cover/pump, SFI balancer and flexplate, Rollmaster timing set and billet roller cam. This will provide all the torque and HP you can use on the street and with 274 cubic inches, give you EASY mid-10's!:biggrin:

Bolt on your heads and other good stuff, and you still have your block as a spare.

 

[TURBO 6]

If you want it to last then you'll have to put a built motor in it. No doubt a stock shortblock will do it, but how many times?

As far as a rollbar, I held out as long as I could without putting one in my car. I guess I'm getting old and wise, but I know if I don't have the bar in there when I need it, I may not live to regret it. Low 10's is nothing to laugh at, things happen real quick.
Another issue for me is the nearest track I can run at without a rollbar/cage is almost two hours away. I have a way better track 35 mins. from my house. It's a no-brainer. You can always cut it out.

 

[ghall]

Bump......so i can watch this----very interesting!

 

[BlownV6]

I have no plans on rolling my car Btw, that pump worked out pretty well.

So you think that Odell planned that rollover?? Do you think any of the hundreds/thousands of rollovers others have experienced were planned??
Sorry!! But - Idiot comes to mind!! Mike

 

[GNBRETT]

So you think that Odell planned that rollover?? Do you think any of the hundreds/thousands of rollovers others have experienced were planned??
Sorry!! But - Idiot comes to mind!! Mike

Idiot also comes to mind when hacking up a 16k mile street car that's worth half as much after a bar goes in considering 99% of the people buying these cars use them on the street vs. the track... And have no interest in a shaky, noisy rattle trap for a weekend crusier.

 

[GNBRETT]

How about another approach to fit your need for a low 10 sec. street build.

We have a fresh 4.1 stroker short block with all forged internals, deep pan, modified cover/pump, SFI balancer and flexplate, Rollmaster timing set and billet roller cam. This will provide all the torque and HP you can use on the street and with 274 cubic inches, give you EASY mid-10's!:biggrin:

Bolt on your heads and other good stuff, and you still have your block as a spare.

PM sent Nick.

 

[Kip]

Idiot also comes to mind when hacking up a 16k mile street car that's worth half as much after a bar goes in considering 99% of the people buying these cars use them on the street vs. the track... And have no interest in a shaky, noisy rattle trap for a weekend crusier.

After reading that statement all I can think of is that who ever you would use to install your roll bar must be a butcher.
See ya, Kip

 

[GNBRETT]

After reading that statement all I can think of is that who ever you would use to install your roll bar must be a butcher.
See ya, Kip

Roll bars are quiet huh? lol... You either have never owned a car with a bar or drive it like a panzy and wouldn't know the difference. And btw, I didn't use anybody to install my bars, they came with cars idiot... So before you shoot ur mouth off and look like an azzhole next time maybe you should think before you speak. It prevents foot in mouth syndrome.

 

[jasjamz]

Its a owners decision on if he/she wants a cage. How many cars on here have all the NHRA saftey equiptment they need for the ET they run...? Lets stay on the topic please.

 

[bison]

I have no plans on rolling my car

Neither did Odell.

 

[GNBRETT]

Neither did Odell.

I think im gonna go that other route and be done with it. U might be right for once

 

[Kip]

Roll bars are quiet huh? lol... You either have never owned a car with a bar or drive it like a panzy and wouldn't know the difference. And btw, I didn't use anybody to install my bars, they came with cars idiot... So before you shoot ur mouth off and look like an azzhole next time maybe you should think before you speak. It prevents foot in mouth syndrome.

Looks like I really struck a nerve. I will not resort to name calling with you as I am sure you are better at it than me.
Lets talk facts, how many TR have you owned with roll bars/cages in them? Since you made a statement about I wouldn't know the difference lets see who has had more. Right this minute I only own three but have owned as many as five TR at one time with either roll bars or cages at the same time.
Above you mention that you have bought cars with bars in them, I guess you only paid half what they were worth if they did not have bars in them like you mention the value of your current car would be with a bar in it???

Take care, Kip