Swapped to a 4L80E

[Chuck Leeper]

Lookin' good!

 

[TurboBob]

The factory shifter cable connecxts and works well, I used a Shiftworks C351 bracket to to hold the cable to the transmission. The stock bracket can probably be made to work with some fabbing. But I had the Shiftworks already so I used that.

The extended column shift parts work great, reverse lights, column lock all work. Scott did the mods and can do some more for those who want them.

 

[Turbo1dr]

More progress today, crossmember is in (measure twice, drill once)
Dipstick tube was hitting the adapter plate, should have mocked that one up ahead of time.
Cooler lines partially run, shift cable connected, column linkage partially done.
Driveshaft in.
Harness connected and partially run.
I connected and 'bench tuned' the TCU previously, so that is ready to connect.. Connection to the ECU is just 4 wires.

We plan to finish tomorrow.

I like the trans mount you had done with the stock crossmember. Makes me want to rethink what I've done. It would definitely save me some weight. The trans dip stick you suggested further up hugs the transmission really good...I bought one. I also saw the modded extension housing you have for a speedo cable on ebay. Thought about getting that but since I have an electric speedo, I can probably get an output off the trans speed sensor to get a 4000ppm for it to work. At least that's what I'm hoping to do. I'm still slowly working on my drivetrain refresh. Maybe in about 6 months or so I'll have it running.

 

[TurboBob]

My trans controller has an option to output the vehicle speed pulsetrain, I would think most controllers can. The sensor is VR, so feeding 2 things doesn't always work.

Bob

 

[TurboBob]

first drive on Satruday went great. Roads were wet, so was limited to part throttle. All shifts are crisp and clean, look to be about .2 sec at all manifold pressures I could try (max 102 kpa), shift pressure is controlled by MAP. I installed a pressure sensor to log line pressure and its behaving great, temperature levelled out in the 130-140 range (half-hour drive).

TCC was not engaging, the spring/valve I installed during the build may want more PWM %, or I may need to replace the solenoid. I should have replaced it during the build but I cheaped out....

 

[TurboBob]

Torque Converter: I asked Dusty/Bison to make a single disk lockup converter that was as close to my 17-blade as possible, and it sure feels dead-on. It will likely not be as tight at high RPM like the N/L, but for my use it seems exactly what I wanted.

Many thanks to those guys!!

Bob

 

[TurboBob]

Took it for another short drive today, everything is operating well. I have not changed any of the tuning (pressures or shiftpoints) it drives very much like a stock trans, but the shift firmness rises with torque. No drama, no slam-bam part throttle nonsense, no 2-3-2-3-2-3 shuttle at 21 mph, no backing off the throttle to get it to shift into OD.

I will post more as I fine tune the full throttle stuff. The TCU has a feature where it switches to RPM based shift points at WOT. I will mess with that after I get some more drive-time and datalogs.

Bob

 

[TurboBob]

After a week+ of driving, everything is working well. Had some highway driving a few days ago, worked great. TCC is still not working, I verified the controller and wiring. Using the controller test mode I can hear the solenoid buzz, so I know all the controls are ok. So its most likely the solenoid (mechanically), the TCC regulator valve (its right behind the solenoid), or I damaged the oring on the input shaft when I installed the converter. I will have the chance to dig into it in a couple weeks. (and I will post what I find)

I made a video showing some of the tuning, (pardon the lousy audio), I will make a few more showing how all the tuning works.

Bob

 

[TurboBob]

So last week I drove to North Carolina and back, trans performed flawlessly. I have not had the chance to replace the TCC solenoid, so I drove it unlocked. The trans temp got to 175 on one of the long hills on the way back, but only that once. Most of the time it was 140 - 150.

Played with the tune a little, but basically setting all the shiftpoints to match my old BRF resulted in a very nice driving setup.

Sold my 200-4r and converter which recouped most of my conversion costs.

Bob

 

[TurboBob]

I plan to make some more vids of the tuning, anything else I should get video or pictures of?

 

[KC_ WE4]

I plan to make some more vids of the tuning, anything else I should get video or pictures of?

I'm jealous . Hopefully it holds up better than the 200. If I end up going through a 3rd one I'm going to heavily consider this.

 

[Quick Turbo V6]

I plan to make some more vids of the tuning, anything else I should get video or pictures of?

A full list of part #'s and cost

 

[TurboBob]

here's a list of the parts we used to install the transmission. the selector shaft was the only "internal" part and not truly necessary,
As far as the building of the trans itself, I covered most of it but will do a summary post with part numbers.

-----------installation parts
adapter TCI- 230001
dipstick TCI- 743805
selector shaft (convert from long to short shaft) -Sonnax 38511-03K
console shift cable bracket - Shiftworks C351
column shift linkage mods - contact Scott Vail
speedo cable extension - amazon ATP Y-808
tailshaft (speedometer cable adapter) - alloyspecialties on ebay
trans mount -summit rubber # SUM-7731165 or polyurethane Energy Suspension 3.1158G
line kit - 2x Amazon "generic" from apst
trans fittings - ICT Billet 6AN kit for 97 4L80
rad fitting - amazon Evil Energy or Podavelle adapter from 6AN to 1/2-20 inverted flare
radiator - spectrum cu162 Regal V8
cooler - hayden 689
converter - PTC 10" billet single disk PTC104L80ELUS20021BS (1/8)
controller - MicroTCU kit from TurboTweak, configured and programmed.
driveshaft - custom from driveshaft specialties
Misc - heat sleeve for cooler lines, mounting hardware for cooler, bolts for trans mount

 

[chopped39]

Bob, did you replace the whole tail shaft or get some kind of converter? I was looking at this before.

Picture 1 of 6​

Have one to sell?
Sell now

Dakota Digital ECD-200BT-1​

 

[chopped39]

Sorry, Just saw you had used the whole tail shaft housing

 

[TurboBob]

I used the tailshaft housing and speedo gear kit from the ebay guy, it works well and is "stock-ish". The speedo cable boxes (there are a few kinds) work well from what I hear, the people that use them tend to mount them up by where our washer bottle is. Some use a signal from the ecu for speed, some actually use GPS.

I was looking for 'stock-ish' so I went with the tailshaft housing.

Bob

 

[TurboBob]

Here are the build/parts details. Scott built it, I helped out a little. Many thanks to Scott!!

Core is 1997 2WD from a pickup or van​

rebuild kit from WIT (could use other sources) stock high-energy Borg Warner frictions, regular steels, paper&rubber, bushings, filter.​

selector shaft (convert from long to short shaft) -Sonnax 38511-03K​

4L80E / Th400 Intermediate Spring Retainer -- ebay​

reused original pan gasket​

dipstick TCI- 743805 , calibrate this during the build, full = .25" above pan rail​

Rostra replacement internal harness (34446)​

replaced IMS (manifold switch assembly) - GM #24222077 from amazon​

rollerized rear of case using TH350 bearing and sonnax bushing installed from the back (driveway engineer on Youtube)​

internal "dual feed", used cup plug in the case and set screw in the center support. remove second ring from center support and middle lip seal from direct.​

shift kit: used most of a "HD2 kit", used stock style plate from transgo 48-PLT-01 (since dual feed was done internally), drilled .093, .110, .093, .110 (2,3,4,R)​

drilled pump for line-lube and drain, drilled direct drum and installed return springs (all transgo HD2 procedures)​

clearance set tight at the back (.009"), the rest were setup 'stock', clutch clearances were set "stock" at about .060"​

teflon one-piece rings​

sonnax stator support bushing #34016-W , hone to fit input shaft​

torlon checkballs (installed all)​

reamed AFL in the valve body using transgo kit (48-ACT-TL)​

installed transgo TCC fix kit (4L80E-TCC)​

installed a 300PSI pressure sensor in the line pressure tap with a 90 degree fitting. (loDoller 'better' style sensor and cable)​

used the factory tool to set the reverse servo piston pin, chose pin 1 step tighter than the tool said to use.​

replaced overdrive planet, the original had too much slop in the pinions, bought on ebay​

used Dexron-VI fluid​

I wanted a firm shifting street trans, so accumulators were not blocked and holes were drilled in the separator plate to accomplish this. It drives very well. I might experiment with firmer calibrations next season. I have a few thousand miles on it now and am very happy with the result.

Bob

 

[V6sleeper]

Here are the build/parts details. Scott built it, I helped out a little. Many thanks to Scott!!

Core is 1997 2WD from a pickup or van​

rebuild kit from WIT (could use other sources) stock high-energy Borg Warner frictions, regular steels, paper&rubber, bushings, filter.​

selector shaft (convert from long to short shaft) -Sonnax 38511-03K​

4L80E / Th400 Intermediate Spring Retainer -- ebay​

reused original pan gasket​

dipstick TCI- 743805 , calibrate this during the build, full = .25" above pan rail​

Rostra replacement internal harness (34446)​

replaced IMS (manifold switch assembly) - GM #24222077 from amazon​

rollerized rear of case using TH350 bearing and sonnax bushing installed from the back (driveway engineer on Youtube)​

internal "dual feed", used cup plug in the case and set screw in the center support. remove second ring from center support and middle lip seal from direct.​

shift kit: used most of a "HD2 kit", used stock style plate from transgo 48-PLT-01 (since dual feed was done internally), drilled .093, .110, .093, .110 (2,3,4,R)​

drilled pump for line-lube and drain, drilled direct drum and installed return springs (all transgo HD2 procedures)​

clearance set tight at the back (.009"), the rest were setup 'stock', clutch clearances were set "stock" at about .060"​

teflon one-piece rings​

sonnax stator support bushing #34016-W , hone to fit input shaft​

torlon checkballs (installed all)​

reamed AFL in the valve body using transgo kit (48-ACT-TL)​

installed transgo TCC fix kit (4L80E-TCC)​

installed a 300PSI pressure sensor in the line pressure tap with a 90 degree fitting. (loDoller 'better' style sensor and cable)​

used the factory tool to set the reverse servo piston pin, chose pin 1 step tighter than the tool said to use.​

replaced overdrive planet, the original had too much slop in the pinions, bought on ebay​

used Dexron-VI fluid​

I wanted a firm shifting street trans, so accumulators were not blocked and holes were drilled in the separator plate to accomplish this. It drives very well. I might experiment with firmer calibrations next season. I have a few thousand miles on it now and am very happy with the result.

Bob

All this stuff should be in a sticky in the Transmission section for anyone that wants to tackle this.

 

[TurboBob]

All this stuff should be in a sticky in the Transmission section for anyone that wants to tackle this.

@SGRIM @JayC are the admins that can sticky a thread. There are other, older threads but many of them have lost their pictures. I will dig out any pertinent links and put them in a post.

 

[V6sleeper]

@SGRIM @JayC are the admins that can sticky a thread. There are other, older threads but many of them have lost their pictures. I will dig out any pertinent links and put them in a post.

Yes this build shouldn't get lost over time and buried in the site somewhere, i have a feeling a lot of people will be going this route in the future.