T-type needs help.. Im ready to tackle the enemy

[Pablo]

Ive started the process of trying to restore the exterior of my t type with the goal of having it pass for factory fresh looking to the untrained eye.

Ive allready purchased lots of trim peices and am in the process of re doing the front clip with a new header panel, fillers, bumper, etc

after that I want to tackle the rust and paint. The previous owner block sanded the car i guess to get it ready for paint but never had it painted. The result is very thin paint that is rusting through in spots. I have minor surface rust on almost all of the body edges and alot of exterior portions of the car that tend to let water sit on them. Nothing major.

I have some pictures, I would like to know the best way to repair this, for example, I have roloc sanding disks, should I use these to take it down to bare metal and then what do i do to the bare metal? Can I just juse krylon primer on it? What grit should the bare metal be sanded to before applying the primer? As youll see I tried repairing this before but it seems to rust right through the primer (different primer used before, dont know if this one is better) also, it appears as though mold has grown on parts of the primer that I applied a few months back.

Anyway, im just looking for some advice

 

[Benched]

I am no expert, but that rust looks like it came about because of unsealed primer. Someone had it down to bare metal before and didn't get it covered up soon afterward.

It takes more than just plain primer to protect the metal.

 

[Thumper]

primer

If this car sits outside, the primer will only provide temporary protection, primer attracts moister and does not seal the metal from nature, if you have a way to borrow or buy a primer/paint gun with a 1.8 tip and a small compressor, that would be best, because you can have color added to the primer to help seal, you need to sand the old primer completely off with 80 grit, and get all the rust down to white metal, then use self etching primer with some color added. you really need to get it painted within 30 days or this will start a repeat. If you must, Sherwin Williams sells a self etch in spray bomb style, but it will need to go to bare metal and be redone when time for paint regardless of which way you do it for now.

Thanks
Bill

 

[Pablo]

yes the car sits outside unfortunately

Now, 80 grit... does it matter if that is done mechanically or does it have to be done with a sanding block to prevent waves?

If I understand you corectly, I apply self etching primer directly to the bare metal at 80 grit right?

Its basically going to have to just be stripped down to bare metal before paint anyway?

Thats crappy news.

Thanks for the help

 

[Pablo]

oh and one more thing, would it be a waste of time to take regular flat grey rattle can paint and spray it over the primer to protect it in the meantime?

 

[Red Regal T]

Pablo, my friend.........I think what I'd do if I was in your place would be to get it all ready, find a quickie paint shop and get some enamel on it. Find somebody who does a nice enamel job. Should only cost $300 or $400 to shoot if it's ready to go. Take a couple days to get it ready and deliver it to the shop ready to paint. You can't do piece by piece if you don't have a garage you can let it sit in.

Come and see us in the political forum. :biggrin:

 

[Thumper]

Yes, 80 grit sanding to bare metal, then wipe it down with thinner or a pre clean and prime it.
I use a DA sander, quicker, and it will be as straight as the metal, block if over any filler.
If you use rattle can spray, it will have to be removed before painting to, the adhesion of the primer is where a good paint job starts, so the primer is not where you need to save money. If the primer is no good, the whole job is no good.
Red Regal is right, you do need to have it painted asap, an inexpensive job will protect it better than any primer will, but have it ready the best you can, but do not be offended if the painter does more preparation, I have never seen a car show up ready to paint, always needs more attention somewhere.
I will stress again, the primer is what a good paint job is bases on.

Thanks
Bill

 

[Pablo]

well how much preparation can i realistically do if the primer I have put on has to be removed prior to a paint job anyway? I can remove all the trim peices and mask off things i suppose.. Is that what you mean by preparation? Should I remove the rust and then just do my best with a rattle can just to leave atleast some sort of protection and then tell the painter to remove all that and reprime? As far as repriming.. does he have to take the whole car down to bare metal? only parts arecovered in primer.. the sides of the car all have original paint.

 

[SPOOLN]

Pablo, that car needs to be put in a good paint shop and stripped. The grey primer holds moisture and will rust as its been doing. Grey primer sucks, do not use if you get it painted at the shop. If you do, 5-6 months down the road you will have pimples/blisters appear under the clears coat. You will have to get it stripped to the metal and prepped with a rust inhibiter so no further rust will appear. Then it will need a good primer filler, blocked and the sanded.

 

[Thumper]

Gray primer sucks? a new one on me, primer can purchased with tints , neutral, gray,white, the color matters none, the type of primers matters.
preparation may differ with the individual painter, but sanding with different (rougher or smoother) grit paper may be one of the items, you need to ask the person who will be spaying the car how he prefers it to be prepared, so its time to find someone in your area to talk to face to face about the project at hand and save the body from rusting so bad that its pitted.

Sorry, but I mean no offense, the longer you wait may make matters worse, even if you continue to patch the rust is still lurking.

Thanks
Bill

 

[chopped39]

I Had My Car Media Blasted And The Body Guy Did Body Work And Then Painted It With Epoxy Primer.that Stuff Was Not Cheap. But Its Been Sitting For Three Years And Looks The Same As The Day It Was Dropped Off. The Best Way Is To Bring It To Someone And Let Them Do It For You. If They Stand Behind Their Work They Will Go Over And Block Car The Way They Want It . Take It From Me My Car Has Been Sittin On The Lift In My Garage For Three Years Because I Started It Myself. And Know I Became Good Friends With A Great Body Shop Thats Bustin My Nards About Finishing It. Save Up Some Cash And Get It Done And Then Put Your Trim Pieces Back On. Best Of Luck To You

 

[Pablo]

How much $ am i looking at dropping on this for work of that caliber?

 

[chopped39]

I Went Over Kill On This Car. Media Blasting Cost Me 700.00 . The Original Body Guy That Started This Jobb For Me Screwed Me Big Time .i Gave Him 1700 Bucks To Do Job And He Never Finished It. This Guy Worked For A Porsche Dealer Body Shop. I Really Would Not Have Gone This Far If I Would Have Had Any Idea How Big Of A Project This Was Going To Be. The Body Guys I Became Good Friends With Told Me It Would Cost About 3500.00 To Finish Car. Thats Stripping Off All Epoxy Primer. Repair Lower Quarter Panels. Repair Both Door Bottoms And Put Whole Car Back Together And Prime And Paint It. They Told Me This Would Be A Show Car Finish. This Might Sound Crazy. But They Give A Lifetime Warranty On The Paint And Body Work. And Thats Not Because I Know Them. I Also Do Alot Of Work For These Guys They Dont Like Getting Greasy.and I Dont Care.so If You Can Find A Shop Like That And Barter Off Labor It Pays Off. I Called Others To Compare Prices And They Were All Over 5000.00. One Shop Wanted 8500.00. I Know A Guy That Is In Arizona Thats Supposed To Be Good. He Is Right Out Side Of Tempe. But Shop Around And Ask Friends. Word Of Mouth Is Huge In Body Shops. Or Find Real Good Body Guy To Do All Body Work And Then Take It To Macco. In Il They Paint A Complete Car For Like 350.00. Good Luck.

 

[mybuick]

chopped 39 who did the blasting. iam going to repaint my car this winter and looking for a place to do this. i am going to terrace for paint and supplies,(dupont) but need to strip the paint and fix rust....

 

[Thumper]

I have some body parts that are rust free if you need to replace some metal, rockers, door post area at the hinges, complete good quarter for pass side, trunk and floor pans have surface rust only, email me if you may need some of this.

Thanks
Bill

 

[chopped39]

I Had My Car Media Blasted At Blast Away In Bensenville Il. Right By Ohare Airport. They Did A Great Job. Heres The Number # 630-616-1718 .