TE-44 Turbo,what converter??

[scot w.]

We would recomend a 2800 in Non L/U or L/U that can be made to suit your combo just fine! We personally run a TE-44 turbo (on our GNS test car) the same turbo as you. Our converters we sell offer a 1 yr warranty on all work performed ( A tad bit more than the industry standard) and every single fin happens to be welded up (Tigged) for strength to avoid the dreded folded over of the fins!!.... This option can get very costly going though other vendors, but comes free with our converters!!

 

[Godzilla]

i run a 2800 l/u dusty on my 44 and its in boost immediately just ran a 11.4 with it.

Then there would be no reason for me to get the 10' N/L 2800 converter.I also hear the N/L converter's drink the gas faster.

 

[Dusty Bradford]

If 10's are your goal I wouldn't run the 10" converter at all, especially since your looking into the non lock converter.

When maxing out a combo there are many gains to be had with a 9.5 non lock. I can build it with a 2800 stall but the different technology used will spool faster and lock up better than a 2800 stall 10" converter. Cruise slip has been logged at only 5% or less. It's more expensive but you get what you pay for.

 

[supramantrm]

1st off don`t know about the cam ,cause the heads intake and all were done at the same time ,new timing chain ect.So,all i can say is the car is very quick after the cam ,roller rockers and all.
The converter is a 10 inch lock up .
Keep in mind my car is set for 19 lbs of boost not the 23-28 lbs i see on here frequently.
I`m cutting a 1.6 60 foot off the foot brake and zero boost built at the line.
This set up has alot more in it i`m just trying to learn the car right now.But,its gettin hot here already and 90`s this weekend will kill any desire i have to go racin.
I really can`t imagine a street car,which is what my daily driver is,running much better,race car thats a different story,but i drive mine on 1-2 hour trips all the time.
I guess its just what your trying to achieve?

 

[Godzilla]

If 10's are your goal I wouldn't run the 10" converter at all, especially since your looking into the non lock converter.

When maxing out a combo there are many gains to be had with a 9.5 non lock. I can build it with a 2800 stall but the different technology used will spool faster and lock up better than a 2800 stall 10" converter. Cruise slip has been logged at only 5% or less. It's more expensive but you get what you pay for.

Then I would probably go with the 9.5.I didn't think you made them.My car is sluggish in 1st Gear compared to a Stock Buick GN without powerbraking it.I don't get anywhere near instant boost and I took off the PTE Housing and switched to a Garett.I noticed a difference but it wasn't like night and day by any means.The tune was good since I read the Scanmaster.May have had 1 degree of knock but stayed close to 0 knock.The O2 volts were 820-830 but Im not looking to go lower then 780 O2 Volts on 93 Pump gas.I don't want a blown head gasket.Some people tell me its the 009's and the chip.I never did get a TT chip but I think the converter is what is holding the car back IMO.

 

[Dusty Bradford]

Then I would probably go with the 9.5.I didn't think you made them.My car is sluggish in 1st Gear compared to a Stock Buick GN without powerbraking it.I don't get anywhere near instant boost and I took off the PTE Housing and switched to a Garett.I noticed a difference but it wasn't like night and day by any means.The tune was good since I read the Scanmaster.May have had 1 degree of knock but stayed close to 0 knock.The O2 volts were 820-830 but Im not looking to go lower then 780 O2 Volts on 93 Pump gas.I don't want a blown head gasket.Some people tell me its the 009's and the chip.I never did get a TT chip but I think the converter is what is holding the car back IMO.

The 10" converters are good but when it comes to maxing out any given combination, a more custom tailored race converter is needed. They offer better spool-up with better efficiency all wrapped into one package. Often times some are scared when they hear "race" converter but when it also slips so little at cruise you don't know the difference until you step into it.

 

[Godzilla]

I got one of those heavier Limited T-types with the leather interior.Im sure they were beautiful when the car was new.Its all great but for 1 to 7 years this was a Texan car.The Leather seats were cracked when I bought this car in like 1993 or 1994.Its also got a moonroof that is stuck and leaks water into the front passenger's side.Headliner is gone but the power seat still works.If everything worked I would rather have this rare Turbo T- Type Turbo regal.The only thing I hate is the shifter,it is up near the steering wheel and going down the track and trying to shift that is an accident waiting to happen.Its got that play in it that those type of shifters have.I don't even attempt to shift it because Im afraid I might put it in reverse or overdrive at 40 MPH.The rear bench seat is not bad.My 87 came with purple but looks more like maroon and had purple tinted windows.Still have the Purple tint.You can barely tell its purple because its very light.The car is all Black now!! I gotta save up for the 9.5 N/L because I know I would like it better.I just wonder is this going to fry my tires everytime I go full throttle??