The 86 is about to breath life again! Thanks to Jim, Ed and Jim

phillyturbosix

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Staff member
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Aug 24, 2003
The engine and trans are back home again where is belongs! Jim Dunn, Ed Singleton, and Jim Barnes were working on the car most of the day Saturday. I helped a little till I broke a finger nail then I said the hell with that crap! :kekegay:

The Countdown To Ignition is on! Now on to the pics....

Firewall and frame all painted up...

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Ed cleaning up the wires and fixing a bunch of crap wire connections....

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Ed working on a top secret project here.... :D

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The engine is waiting patently to go back home...

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Almost ready as the trans watches from a near by bench....

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hello people; Philly that engine looks real nice. It looks brand new. What did you do to it.? If it's a rebuild how are you going to break it in?
IBBY
 
Thanks guys. This has been my winter project this year. I guess it all started sometime mid January. Every switch, sensor, module, is all brand new NOS GM. Cam sensor everything is new. Pistons are JE Forged. 5 angle valve job, intake valves cut, and new LT1 valve springs. NEW GM lifters. The trans was totally rebuild as well with a new converter. The engine spun a bearing last year (well a few of them) due to metal in the oil from a previous engine that let go from the last owner. The old metal in the oil that was in the radiator issue.

It's a flat tappet Comp Cam Weber Racing grind 206/206. The engine was built with everything soaked in ZDDP and the cam was loaded up with ZDDP Cam assembly lube. Once it's all done I'll have to make a complete post with the entire build and more info.

For cam break in just going to do what Comp Cam's says. Fire it up, run the engine at 2000 to 2500 rpm for 30 mins. Shut off dump the oil and filter. I have Comp Cam's engine break in oil in the engine for the break in and I'm also going to run that oil for the first 200 to 500 miles. Comp Cams engine break in oil is now recommend to run all the time. They came out with a 10w30 and 10w40 line to answer the issue of ZDDP missing from the new oils that are in the stores. They primed the pump and off the drill it ran right up to 50psi oil pressure. I was happy to see that!

Can't wait to put some miles on this baby! I'm going to wear the wheels off it this summer for sure! :cool:
 
Can't wait to put some miles on this baby! I'm going to wear the wheels off it this summer for sure! :cool:

;) Hrmm well you have some catching up to do :biggrin: guess mine has been tested so far decently its still running :cool:



Guys this is one VERY clean car... I almost felt wrong working on it as I could never own one that clean, Id have it at the track the weekend I bought it :eek:
 
the engine looks very sterile, like you could eat off it, very nice job fellas
 
Thanks guys :) Hopefully you guys can see it in person someday! My plans as of now this year are to have this car at Kirban's Open house, Bowling Green, BPG in Ohio, and some other local Buick events like E-town and Atco. I'd like to make it Noble as well and yes Charlie I'll bring that hoagie! :tongue: But I need to put some miles on it to break everything in. The car has 80 some K on it but I'm shooting for that "looks like a 10 mile car from 3 feet away" look.

I really love doing these engine bays up. They are fairly easy and I have a great powder coating guy locally I can take stuff to him on Thursday and pick it up by Saturday most times. And he's cheap! So that helps a lot!

After going to shows and Buick events I've always seen low mile GN's and the engine bay looked horrible. For some reason the GN is one of the only cars that a under 5000 mile car the engine bay looks like crap. The metal they used was bad, they are very very hard to clean and keep clean, and we all know how under boost these cars mist oil all over the engine bay! So after doing my 87 all modified I thought it would be cool to do up a stocker. I bought this car for it's amazing paint job and having no rust being super clean I figured it was a good car to do this project with.

While everything is powder coated and ceramic coated I wanted that nice clean stock look at shows. I've found unless the engine bay is all chromed out people walk right past you. So hopefully this engine bay will stop those people and make them look for anything that's not stock in there other then the coatings. :D
 
Just to give you guys an idea this is what the engine bay looked like when I bought the car!

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I loved the oil soaked color on the valve covers! :eek: :D

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hello people; That's pretty cool seeing the before and soon after. But I have a question about break fluid level (in another thread) looking at pic. 3 of the before is that your brake fluid level that barely of the bottom of the res. because mine is lower than that?
thanks
IBBY
 
hello people; That's pretty cool seeing the before and soon after. But I have a question about break fluid level (in another thread) looking at pic. 3 of the before is that your brake fluid level that barely of the bottom of the res. because mine is lower than that?
thanks
IBBY

Well don't forget there is fluid in the ball as well. That's how guys over fill them by filling it up and then when the fluid in the ball pours in you wind up with a over fill powermaster! :D
 
That is one of the cleanest, and best looking engines yet. What colors did you use for powerder coat?
 
I have a question about break fluid level (in another thread) looking at pic. 3 of the before is that your brake fluid level that barely of the bottom of the res. because mine is lower than that?
thanks
IBBY

Ignition off, pump your brake pedal 10 times to depressurize the accumulator ball and then check your fluid level.
 
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